Clutch failure and FAIL on the screen

thanks all for your contributions, I will change the oil and report after weekend ride how things went.

actually Im planning to do that after i wash the bike, to check every connector and apply dielectric grease, as I have never done that before

Sorry NG means "No good"!

The 5/30 oil has friction modifiers if you use it long term it can make the clutch slip. Believe it or not it is TOO slippery for a wet clutch.
Use the 0/40 Mobil 1 oil instead..

My 250 says "fail" on the screen when I power it up then the "fail" goes away. It is normal for me anyway. The "Fail" is fuel injection and ignition related only. It cant and won't tell you if you have engine damage...valves, piston etc.

I agree with the idea that you had a bubble in the clutch fluid.
The same thing can happen with hydraulic brakes if you boil the brake fluid.
The clutch fluid is the same, but is is much harder to boil the clutch system.
Still possible if the ride was super tight, hilly and hot.

I'd change the clutch fluid and ride it.
See if it comes back.

That relieves me a bit, thanks. What I will plan to do this weekend is to wash the bike, WD40 all connectors, then grease them with dielectric grease, change the clutch fluid and change the oil.

After that, I will take the bike out to the street and see how it behaves. Hope my next report is gonna be good and no major issues

I would occasionally get a fail message in the screen on my te511, but I've switched out the factory battery to an "earth-x" and it seems to be a much better battery with more consistant voltage delivery to all the systems, even my trip meter works now I figure that even though my model year is 2013 the factory battery was close to 2 yrs old by the time the bike got to me.
I find that it seems companys in the modern day only build to the minimum required, saving money on every component possible. Not just dirtbikes, I mean everything and I'm also finding that if you want the top notch stuff you'll have to add it your self (& pay for it too)
Don't mind that last bit, my wife says I'm getting more "crotchety" as I get older

I get the fail when I stall or on a hard compression stroke starting. Do not worry about it tooooo much unless you have a ridability problem.

That would be "Mobil 1 0W-40 European Car Formula".

thanks guys, I bought today the Motul 300V 5w40 oil and filter, tomorrow will wash and grease the bike and sunday will test it. I can't use the Mobil 1 0w40 european car formula because it is not available here in Costa Rica.

Motul 300V 5w40 is fine.

You still need a lithium battery huh?
90 more cranking Amps will be your new best friend....

Hey guys, I washed the bike, applied WD40 and cleaned contacts. Changed the oil MOTUL 300V 5w40, put new oil filter, and started the bike to warm it up. All good. Today, I rode it from home to work, to test the clutch and the fail screen, and everything looked good.

Engine sounds good, clutch engages/disengages fine, no FAIL on the screen, my bike is a lovely lady :-)

I work with lithium batteries daily.... http://www.pacificebike.com I have 2-3 batteries ready to go into whichever bike I choose. But I will not put them on any bike I own.

That of course is your choice, but until you increase the cranking capacity you will continue to loose the dash data on cranking & have trouble winding over on 'compression' starts you've described. (Both these things really annoyed me from new)
I don't see an issue with that, and have had 12 trouble free months out of my SSB. Like I said, entirely your choice.
Peace.

recently purchased te449 2012 having small issue with hot starts , it takes a couple of tries and sometimes starter doesnt want to keep cranking ( stops).always starts though after a few tries. Also now my clutch goes away and comes back. took slave off engine and fluid in there , is it supposed to be dry in the niche where slave sits?

thanks for reply..how about 5.1 fluid with higher temp rating..do you think that will help any?

If it is okay to mix with DOT 4 it is okay.

The clutch fluid does not get as hot a brake fluid so I don't know if it is necessary.

Brake fluid absorbs moisture so you want to change it every 2 years.

The clutch fluid can get hotter than the brake fluid as it is routed right near the exhaust header and in slow technical riding can boil.
DOT 5.1 is a better choice than DOT 4 for this reason, or just change the fluid once a year to prevent fluid build up.

clutch issue went away with 5.1 bled in with syringe method , what model earth x is best for my application. thanks in advance for any reply.