Clutch fluid type ?

This is exactly how I did mine last week, after reading the manual. I'm new to hydraulic clutches but dont see how there could be any air afterwards if you use this method (well, you know, unless there's ingress of air someplace.)

Thanks guys for all the advice , but I have bleed it from the bottom , from the top , you name it . As soon as I drop it into first , I can still feel it rolling forward and doesnt want to locate neutral . Stumped as can be .

The bore looked good . I completely took it off and cleaned it . The bike has a 1000 miles on it , cant imagine it could have scored the bore in that time . I might disassemble it again tomorrow , just to verify everything .

Yup! What he said. Works every time on any bike with a hydrolic clutch.
Big

You can use a x-ring insted of an o-ring on the slave. Did you go all out on the bleed up to the master? I hang a bucket and use a large syringe, you think your done and then the air comes out.
Big

I didnt have a syringe , but filled a clear hose with mineral oil and blew air into the hose . I would say its the same thing .

Started taking everything apart and noticed metal shavings in the reservoir. Took it apart and looked closely to find the part of the piston bore missing metal ! Must have been drawing air ? So I went ahead and solved the problem by throwing money at it , ordered a new CMC assembly. Should have it tomorrow.

The master bore was done?

There is a really bad spot where it looks like the surface just rubbed off . I thought that my first inspection was thorough , but it wasnt . Still pisses me off that the bike has a 1k miles on it . If it had 10k , wouldnt feel so bad.

Well . I threw some money at the problem and the problem got resolved , by the look of things . Found and bought a new CMC , it came complete including the lever . Bled it and it all went back to normal .

As always , thank you guys for the ideas and advice.

I'm still at a loss for what may have happened w/ mine a few weeks ago. To recap the clutch lost pressure, wasn't working...opened up reservoir (nearly empty enough to call it empty), re-filled/bled and all has been fine for the last 3 outings on it.

At first I figured my slave had to be bleeding it into the engine (as I've no symptoms of leakage at master)...now I'm not so sure (as level seems to stay constant.) Any ideas? One theory I've had is that it came from the factory w/ a very low amount in the reservoir (just above the threshold of where I'd experience symptoms) and then, somehow, lost a hair more and had the issue. Still wouldn't explain where the little would have went though (don't really seeing it "boiling off" as it shouldn't get that hot.) Pity, as we all know that trust/confidence in the various systems are essential for an extended off-road excursion. Could be a fluke in that I may have a leak in my slave o-ring that's somehow temporarily sealed up w/ gunk/dirt...which seems very unlikely. If anyone has ideas please let me know.

I feel you , I would prefer a cable for the clutch .

Well, yeah, me too but...as you'll learn in reading up on the TE's more...you wouldn't want the TE610 cable set-up...fraught w/ failures (cable/routing and twisting actuator arm.) It's something surmountable, of course, but the cable system on the 610's have their own headaches. I love the feel of the fluid clutch but yeah it's got it's own issues of course (but, then again, I suppose in all fairness it seems many have had worry free miles out of it...just the way these things go sometimes.)

Makes you want to stow a little container of fluid under the seat somewhere...


.

Well now that you mention it that sure makes sense. As little as it holds that shouldn't be difficult.