I know this is old but I was searching and came across this. Bike overheated today doing slow technical stuff. rad holed from (or pressure, not sure which yet), fan wouldn't then run. Put more coolant in and filled up the rads along with some radweld, disconnected the sensor, fan kicks in after about 5 seconds of running time. 20 minutes of running later, no more leak, no overheating. The neutral light flashes all the time indicated an error, but it kept me running.
I read on another post the disconnecting of the temp sensor, or it's failure, causes the fan to run continually irrespective of the actual engine temp..........which in this case helped your cooling efforts. In other cases, it sounds like a particular failure in the sensor will NOT cause the fan to come on and cause overheating. BTW, were temp sensor resistance readings for various temps posted somewhere? I can't find.
Has anyone put a simple switch on their bike, to be able to, at will, connect/short together the 2 wires from the temp sensor, essentially telling the ECU that the engine is very hot, thus making the fueling and the fan operate as if the engine is hot, even if the temp sensor is bad and not able to send the signal that the bike is hot. Another way to put this: Will the state of zero resistance/fully connected temp sensor be a normal event for a super hot motor OR will it be cause for a FAIL message, as I know a fully unconnected state IS cause for a FAIL (temp sensor unplugged)
Some of my results with a cup of hot water and a meat thermometer: OHM meter set at 20k on the dial 188F = .260 182F = .280 175F = .300 170F = .320 150F = .400 140F = .500 126F = .690 (you showed 83F at this resistance) 75F = 2.07
Is .690 K Ohms equal to 690 Ohms? Is .162 K Ohms equal to 162 Ohms? I am thinking I want to wire a 100 Ohm resistor with a switch into my temp sensor line, so I can force the temp sensor to send data to the ECU that will say "engine is hot, like 220F hot". I have figured that 100 Ohms (if I am translating the numbers right) would be close to the resistance of 220F.
If you wired a switch by splicing into the current wires and left the sensor connected to those wires, the sensor and the switch would be in parallel (to achieve a short). The end resistance reading would remain the same (sum of both resistances) resulting in the same final end voltage reading (you wouldn't have eliminated the sensor). If you disconnected the sensor from the circuit- and joined the 2 wires with a switch or by connecting them- you'd be at zero resistance. I have never done this- yes you may have a fail at both extremes if they programed that into the computer.
Temp readings of tests may vary do to testing procedures and replication- So I am not surprised with some variance The absorption rate of temp- may effect- (temp sensor absorption versus meat thermometer). Variance of Source voltage- bike running, battery, charging system, versus bench testing with a batteryMy temp came from the sensor itself thus the resistance and the temp should be equivalent- even if the sensor was not working properly. I believe it was. I am still using the same sensor (original/stock/OEM) without, fail, and have consistently well running/tuning. My cold temp- bike was not ran (thus cold) this could effect voltage in some respects (your battery versus mine) My bike was ran- to temp, shut off, ignition on to read my "hot temp".
.690 K ohms = 690 ohms I don't know what you are trying to achieve or why. Why not just use the sensor? or if you want a manual fan- why not instal one. I am guessing you want to bypass the sensor entirely and have the choice of 2 extremes Hot or Cold - to have control of the ECU's temp readings. I would not personally like that. Maybe you have had bad luck with temp sensors and don't want to deal with them anymore. I'd caution you to research the wiring you intend and build a schematic and review that; not that it is too complex and not that I know your aptitude for this but you want to make sure if you are testing what you intend I don't what you to end up with dangerous/damaging results. ***by the way- I am hoping I am making sense since I'm reading these with my morning coffee- just trying to wake up. Good luck and be safe
Thanks for getting back, I put a manual switch on my fan, and I put an indicator light on the old fan circuit. The switched fan works great, but I couldn't get the new light to come one, even when my infrared thermometer read 235F on the temp sensor collar. The fan used to always come on at about 220F. I tested 3 different white-clad sensors, they all varied a little, I replaced the one that was in the bike, and put one in that showed similar data and that sensor caused my new light to come on at 217F, so that's working like I want it to now. I put 1 of my old radiator shields back on, I think taking them off has been the cause of my mileage going from 32mpg to 25mpg. Trying to manage the actual temp of the water is such a pain in the ass so I still want to wire a switch and a 100 Ohm resistor into that circuit and I hear what you are saying, I want to wire it so that when I hit the switch, it negates the temp sensor and goes directly to the 100 Ohm loop.
I used to get 40mpg, then it went to 32mpg, lately, it's been 25mpg. I can live with 32mpg and it may have suffered when I quit using my rad blockers when I got tired of messing with them. I have to have the temp sensor so that the ECU sees the range of resistance that it expects to see. I want to use my map as it is because the bike runs really good, always has, it's set up rich and that's OK. I just feel like there's a nice, lean fueling spot when the water temp is at 215F that the bike doesn't get to when I am cruising at 55mph because my water temp then is at 180F. When I am cruising, and have a great stream of air, I want to get to the leanest spot in my map, and I think I can do that by switching to a resistance that says to the ECU "215F now".
Looks like I need a toggle switch, main connection to the ECU, then hook up the temp sensor to one pole, and the 100 Ohm bypass to the other pole, all of this on the striped wire, the black wire staying as it is..
I guess I need a 6 pole, 2 position toggle switch, to fully isolate each element, so that only the 100 ohm resistor or the water temp sensor is sending resistance data to the ECU.
Hi I have a 2010 te310 (red top engine) im currently having some troubles, when hot, after going through some tight single trail then stopping for a few minutes then start going again the bike bogs down extremely bad and doesn't want to rev at all, ends up stalling and wont start till its cooled down quite abit but on open fire trail or traveling fast on open road it never misses a beat only on single trail with minimal air flow I have replaced the wts and checked the radiator fan works correctly, checked that the radiator isn't blocked, i have checked valve clearances and replaced coolant to moto ice and it still does it and no codes come up on the dash when this is happening maybe the fuel is vaporizing before it gets through the injector or something like that im running out of ideas where can I go from here cheers
Go on a ride with single track, get the bike hot, get it to the point it is bogging and dying. When it does finally die out, cycle the key or the kill button from OFF to ON and put your ear to the rear of the gas tank. Does the fuel pump sound labored or does it spin as fast as it does when cold? You need to know what the pump sounds like cold and be very familiar with the proper sound the pump makes so you can tell if the pump performance gets worse when the bike is hot.
You need a new fuel pump, your current pump has varnish and junk inside it that make it seize up when hot. Go here and order a new pump: http://ca-cycleworks.com/products/fuel-carbs/fp-hus-f Make sure you have the 6 hole oval fuel pump flange, which I am pretty sure you have.
