OK, now I understand. I thought that kirbybikes was recomend us locite 660 as a way to eliminate the slack between the shaft and the sprocket. I thought that locite 660 was able to create some sort of metallic layer between the splines and the sprocket that would eliminate this slack. I must have been very optimistic ...
Regarding to moly paste, according to technical data sheet , I can read "splines - reduces wear and binding; gears - stands up under high static or slow-moving loads". Does it mean that this product is not suitable for "fast - moving loads"? (the sprocket spins really fast)
The first sprocket in the video I think (I´m not sure) is OEM and has 10.000 km. As you can see the new one (JT) fits quite well in the shaft, what it means that the splines keep being in good shape. The new one is JT... but I'm not saying that this sprocket is better than the OEM one. As the splines looks rusty, I'm going to put a little bit of grease on the splines BTW, the OEM weights 117 gr while JT weights 147 gr Sprocket on a TE310 after applying a silicone joint layer and after 30km of hard riding: I'm going to have a close eye to both in order to find out what is better: to add grease to the splines or to add a silicone layer.
A litium based one... the one that I have at home. I'm not willing to spend 45€ only to take a pinch of it to put it on the splines... not even now that I have checked that splines are not so bad after 10.000 km without any kind of grease on it...
I also would not spend 45 euros of fat. in Italy it is about 20 euros sent home. https://it.rs-online.com/mobile/p/grassi/1347613/ The quantity of almost 1/2 kg lasts a lot of time to lubricate a motorcycle. I use "always" these 3 types of fat according to the work I have to do. for the pinion I combine the protection grease (waterproof) and the skf (molybdenum disulfide) wear after 10000 km is irrelevant
You´re a lucky man. I tryed to order skf lmcg in Spain and I didn't find a dealer. And the other ones cost no less than 45€...
Ive just replaced my front sprocket with another Renthal, they are a good fit on my bike. At 13000 miles there isnt any noticeable wear on the splines though. I have applied grease to the splines often.
Hi all- I have a question for you, please bear with me and provide your feedback as this will help me decide if I'll do this. My splines, at this point, are appreciably worn. I can get another season out of it, but the slop is significant enough, now, to where it should accelerate at a pretty good pace. Here's my idea, and the question. To borrow from the idea shown above (thank you, Rotax, for posting that) I am thinking of doing this: Buy two new CS sprockets. One will drive the chain, of course, and the other I'll cut up so that I will only have the center "ring" (with it's splines and a fair amount of the metal around those- outwards around 1/2 inch.) I'd then weld that onto the driving sprocket. This way I get some use of the quarter inch or so of "unused" splines outside of the c-clip. Next it has to be affixed it to the shaft (as the c-clip groove will now be covered.) I see two options: 1.) This I trust more: Drill a hole through the edge of the sprocket ring that rides on the unused splines, and through the shaft to the hollow area. This will enable me to use a pin (a la kotter pin, or something equally robust, as it's only there to prevent lateral slide-off.) The question: How hard is that shaft (and sprocket)- i.e. will I even be able to drill through it? 2.) I suppose I could use an expansion bolt/anchor type thing with a washer- the type that you slide into the hollow area of the shaft and as it's tightened it'll expand on the walls. This I do not trust as much but- then again- the rotation of the shaft works to keep the threads tight (and I'd use locktite.) Please let me know your thoughts. Thanks! Eric
Unfortunately there is no replacement kit suitable for the Husqvarna sold by KKBIKE.Try to copy the idea and with a friend who can use machines like the lathe and the milling machine you could do the same job done by KKBIKE. It could be an effective solution
Same as I posted on ADVRider: Eric, although the previously unused part of the shaft will key correctly, the load from the chain is still in the same plane and will tilt the whole welded assembly on the shaft whenever power is applied. The 1/4" at the end will not resist this loading and you will quickly damage the 'good' part of the shaft at the end. If you start with a new sprocket and then use a chemical metal repair product, you should be able to recover the shape of the splines. Keeping the end of the shaft in good condition might be helpful in this process, maybe partially reinstating the splines by keeping the new sprocket overlapping the good end of the shaft and then making a second pass to finish off. Then everything would line up correctly. This explains the process well. http://appliedmaintenance.com/spline-shaft-repair.html
But then another post from ADVRider, I can't find that inmate on here under the same user name, so will copy it. This is from #womboin on ADVRider: Hello Eric. Drifting through the forums and came across your post. I did exactly what you described to a couple of countershaft sprockets years ago. It's a 09 te610 but same shaft wear problem. Was horrified to find pretty bad shaft wear after only five or six thousand k. Sacrificed a second sprocket just for spline. I just used an angle grinder then bench grinder to take the teeth off the second sprocket. A machine shop might do a more civilized job. Put the intact sprocket and butchered sprocket on and weld together. Disconnect battery. I was careful to make sure the new drive sprocket was engaged hard against the worn spline before I welded. It's a bit hard to explain but that fix is sort of self locking . To get that sprocket assembly off you need to grind the weld because your new drive sprocket is engaged on the worn spline and sacrificed sprocket is engaging fresh spline. To finish I used your option 2 by using a 10mm dynabolt (expansion bolt) through the centre of spline as a backup. That took me around a better part of Australia with negligible wear. Before that I tried a few Loktite fitting compounds but no good. It kept that bike going for negligible cost. Hope you can make sense of that. Cheers It seems that he is positioning the main sprocket so it sits on the driving face of the worn splines, so it is offset from the new piece that sits on the fresh spline and then welding them together in place. The splines would be slightly offset to eliminate the backlash. Clever idea.
This is all Very helpful. Eoin- I hadn’t thought of the load/"tilt" issue. That makes perfect sense. Bummer, but thanks. Regarding the spline shaft product: That stuff looks promising. I would be hesitant, however, to give it a shot as it seems (if I understood correctly) that the best/right way to apply it would be to "squeegie" the stuff on (which is, in effect, what happens when using the sprocket to slide on/forge the "new" splines), which then drives the excess scrape material towards the engine casing, thus impacting the gap/seal where the shaft enters the case. Re: Womboin’s input- I follow, and agree with Owen that what you did was smart. Yes, that configuration would indeed “lock” it on because of the “step” from the indented worn splines to the good ones. I like the idea and it should buy me more time. I guess grinding that weld off, to get it all off, could be a real challenge. Is it? Probably no matter- I’ve got 20K miles on the bike so maybe just a few more seasons before a tear down is required anyway. It's sounding as though the easiest/most cost effective temporary solution is to do what Womboin suggested, based on Eoin's very good point. Glad I posted here. The whole thing is a bummer, because the engine was opened up about 11K ago and everything looked like new, so I'd wager I could go quite some time w/out having to rebuild the thing. Thanks again!
