125-200cc Cr125's only, You Wr's beware!

I am running an 02 stator with 2' of added length and wound for lights on my CR 144/167 right now. I did all the additions myself and wound the lighting coils myself too. Piece of cake. The stators are identical except for wire length and end connecter design. To make the connection to the JD cdi I needed the older style connecter. It works perfectly and other than having dual maps works the same.

What would happen if you kicked it over and tested the shorter leads versus the longer leads with a meter?

I made that mistake on my GTO from the fuse box to the ignition.

Okay,

That's what we want to hear!

I really, really liked the CR ignition on my bike. I am still not sure if it is the actual timing curve or the lack of flywheel that makes it work so well. I thought I might try the WR with less weight first but I do not think that is possible. I called Trailtech and they do not offer anything for the Husky. I called RB Designs and he does not like to lighten them because there is not much to remove and he said they can possibly come apart which would really not be a good thing.

thanks for that info, NWRider. i figured there wasn't enough material to lighten... still curious what each FW weighs.

too bad we can't tweak the ignition values on the WR without going all-in on the CR setup. (listen to me speaking as if i already have one. hahaa. the WR150 will be mine before spring!)

The thing to remember about the exciter coil/ignition circuit is that it has very little current flow. It is all about voltage and creating a large potential(voltage) thus the extreme amount of windings/length of wire but very fine wire. As long as your connections are solid the resistance in any short length(<10') of larger wire is going to be negligible.

thanks, MattR!

Could someone explain setting the CR timing marks? I got the tool to do it (thanks Wally) but I do not have the tool that goes in the spark plug hole. I have the head off so it is easy to find TDC.

First off when I rotate the crank to bring the piston to TDC I have to rotate it a few more degrees before it starts to come down again. So there is some dwell at TDC. So where do I start measuring the 4 degrees advance from(when I first hit TDC going clockwise, or counterclockwise, or right before it will leave TDC, etc)? And how do I measure? Do I need another tool? I know it will be about 4mm from TDC but I would like to be as accurate as possible.

I am putting a 06 CDI on a 09. Its shorter and fatter than the 09 CDI I tested earlier. Is my best option to lengthen the wires and put it in the 09 location? I really hate to chop the wires! It just seems like I will be introducing more places that can have possible failures. If I wanted a pro to do it would I be best off going to an electronics shop or an automotive one? I also think I could make a metal mount and put it right behind the radiators (the 08 is here and I assume the 06 was also). This location sure exposes it to a lot of water and dirt though so I like what they did in 09 more.

My quick rundown is in the thread ''08 CR ignition on a '09 Wr''

Look for some updates to those threads...sorry about being such a slacker...

good to hear surfer1100 - and hope everyone is listening re jetting issues - the ignition is a major factor in the bog issue - transition - not lean bog on/off
Im kind of missing the little 125 -

So I guess I need a dial indicator. Then the dwell would not matter since the indicator does not move until it the pistorn starts to go down anyway. Does anyone know how far the dial indicator drops to eqal 4 degrees?

try contacting the guy from TT who made this thread:
http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=673641

He took all the guess work out of timing the yz and I'm sure he could enlighten you as to the formula he used.


Also, I have a dial indicator with spark plug threads pressed onto it. Feel free to borrow it anytime.

The manual gives an actual distance you will measure on the dial indicator. It says you need to set the timing mark at .031" before TDC. So zero your dial indicator at tdc and then turn the tool clockwise until the you read .031". Set the mark and you are on the way. Its been 35 years since I performed this operation but it is really straight forward and you will be able to get an exact TDC with the dial indicator.

Surfer1100,

When I used the tool to set my ignition mark on the cases in the picture my blue mark is actually 1 degree retarded. But still that is pretty close jumping from one motor to the other.

Great news, Looks like I'll join the CR ignition club on mine in March!

Wally...

When the term ''retard timing'' is used does that refer to firing more degrees before TDC than the factory setting?

I think the factory is the .031'' BTDC and the book mentions 4 degrees before TDC, should be close to the same.

So...in theory your blue mark should be around 5 degrees BTDC?

So...IF we all had the factory mark at the 4 degrees BTDC...and we wanted to ''retard'' the timing…the stator plate would be rotated clockwise about 1 mm?

Advance the timing = moving the spark closer to TDC?
Retard the timing = moving the spark farther away from TDC?

Any insight?

Thanks.

The manual gives an actual distance you will measure on the dial indicator.

I did some more testing yesterday. Previously I had tried Walts 09 CR ignition combined with his power valves and my PWK carb. It was very good. In fact the bottom end was so strong that I liked it best in the slick with the timing retarded about one degree.

Yesterday I had a 06 CR ignition that I recently purchased. It felt real good but I think there was a bit less bottom. I imagine that is because I have the stock power valves in. It was hard to tell for sure because I only tested this on the gravel road as I needed to keep the bike clean to test the TMXX carb.

I put on the TMXX with the following jetting: 35 pilot, RM 61 needle in forth slot, 480 main. Ever since I had head work done on my bike it has wanted really rich jetting so I started rich with the TMXX. But at the same time I swapped carbs I drained the tank and put in different fuel as this seemed like a good time to make the switch. I wanted to try straight Avgas with Lucas premix. I knew from past experience that Avgas needs much leaner jetting so I think it compensated for head work wanting to be so rich. I ended up with the needle in the third clip and the air screw two turns out. The 35 pilot seems OK but I could probably drop it one. I need to go down at least one size on the main. I think I could have used the needle in the forth slot with a #6 slide. It would blubber some about 3/8 throttle. The middles slot seem pretty good though. I am not sure how some people run a 45 pilot with this carb but some are like me in the mid thirty range.

I rode for a few hours and hit lots of really steep hills with plenty of loose rocks and mud. I think the TMXX has the same bottom end as the PWK, or at least real close. It is so hard to tell with the CR ignition because it makes the bike much less finicky. Ideally I would put the WR ignition back on to jet because it only works well if the jetting is perfect but that is more effort than I was willing to put into it. I also think the bike felt like it pulled harder and longer on top with the Mikuni even though the main was a bit rich. I’ll probably stick with this carb as it is so much easier to fit between the boots. It did not seem to have as good of an idle circuit as the Keihin but I can live with it.

I might want to cut some power valves like the ones I borrowed. They really boost the bottom. But I am not sure I need more. Like I said I actually retarded the timing with them. With the stock valves and the TMXX I ended up with the timing advanced one degree and it was controllable. It pulled up some really steep stuff. I think my clutch will last forever with the CR ignition as I hardly ever have to touch it now. Where with the WR I would be lightly feathering it all the time. For more bottom I could get a 36mm Keihin from a KTM or have a divider plate put in my TMXX. This could be combined with the cut power valves. I am not sure I am going to do any of this though as if the bike gets any stronger on the bottom it will become a handful in the slick conditions we have.

What I did learn from all this is that the CR ignition works really well with a fairly stock bike. My bike only has the factory 144, a cut head, FMF pipe, and modified jetting and it is really strong and also still works very well off road.

Good post, As I will soon be entering the 144 world/Cr Ignition stage.

Have you hit any of the ports to match them or any porting mods, besides the powervalves?

I have the stock power valves in now. I was just borrowing a set from Wally earlier. Porting is all stock. The only top end mod is .3mm shaved off the head by RB Designs.