Chuffa you have 47,500km on the bike? You and LainattheWired are in the 30k miles range. Interesting no valve adjustments. Why does bmw spec 6k mile intervals when it hurts there sales about maintenance intervals?
It's a husqvarna not a BMW, so BMW doesn't specify anything. Hurt sales? Husqvarna sales? Nope. These bikes were in great demand when they were released. BMW 650cc bikes? I don't think they complain about their sales. Certain types of people buy BMWs and will buy BMWs for many other reasons than servicing costs. In all my years of riding, servicing costs have never been a factor in a bike purchase decision.
Mine where 43 both exhaust & 25 both inlet, I didn't make any adjustments, usually exhaust valve clearances close-up over the life of the motor as the seats wear I'm very impressed with the design & quality of the motor, not so impressed with the amount of work required to do the task - would be expensive if undertaken in a Bike Shop
Nev- I understand it is a husqvarna with the same maintenance schedule as the bmw bikes at 6k mile valve checks since it really is a tuned BMW 650 single. Personally I look at all aspects in a anything I buy. Hence the reason I am looking at the FJ09 as my daily commuter 26k mile valve checks. There is a lot of consumers who do not work on anything they own and breaking into an engine is scary for them. This bike just takes too long to check the valves every 6k miles. That would be every 5 months for me. I have owned a few BMW products and realized a long time ago their maintenance on bikes and cars biased towards making more money through there dealerships. If they actually did 12k mile valve checks to start and then quoted after a certain mileage the intervals would get greater I would actually think they would sell more. Hence the reason KTM is striving for longer maintenance intervals and some ducati owners move away from those bikes. Perfect example why still some people prefer the ancient KLR. In reality we are finding out the valve checks are really just over maintenance.
I agree with RA. I do basic bike maintenance but don't usually go inside the engine myself. I was hoping to learn but on this bike it's kinda above my pay grade. It didn't really play into my decision as I wasn't smart enough to look into such things but in the end I would have still bought the bike. On other forums I hear a few times a day someone say they will not buy a particular bike (usually KTM) because of the short service intervals so it certainly is a factor for some.
Today my bike is 12965 km I rode this weekend and bought it a year ago, i´d like to know how can I make some changes: -Today I burn the base of a touratech soft top-case, i´ve lost a bolt and nut of the plastic read grid. Any un expensive new grid? -2up: in bumps, the bike has a strange sound when the shock reaches the lowest level. -Any coments about Heidenau Tires 4 this bike -2 lt of oil for oil change is enought? -Any idea of how to scan yourself the bike, any special plug hardware/software -Need a new rear mud-fender -Need new brake pads. Local Husqvarna dealer is not bringing this bike spear-parts Any suggestions about the 15k (KM: 9300 MILES) mantainance Saludos desde Ecuador
Andy Strapz here in Australia makes Expediion Panniers & Frame for my bike & it's proved ideal for all my uses The local kitchen/cookware shop will have plastic cutting boards which for only a few $ s can be bolted in place & is stronger Terry Hay at Shock Treatment increased the thickness of the rear-shock bump stop as the swing-arm bends the rear tyre contacts under the seat I use 2,100 ml of oil - that is 100ml more than recommended, it's quite a proceedure to actually get it in the frame oil tank, cut the end off the dip stick short, makes it easier to get in the hole Easiest way to check the oil, immediately after a ride, remove the dipstick & look in, if the oil is within 50-60 mm of the top off the filler it's perfect Do the Pod mod (see earlier posts) as soon as possible as you ride lots of dirt Purchase a K&P stainless oil filter, gives better oil flow, better filtration & totally re-usable, same part number as BMW 650GS To make draining the oil tank more efficient change the oil drain (near the tank) with a Tee-piece from the local Hydraulic Workshop, plus clips & hose then run the new drain pipe away from the exhaust pipe, mine is attached to the right-hand Safari tank mount I'll post photos later, or go thru' my earlier posts Cheers Engineerk9
I checked bolts engine, and just left to change sparks plug to iridium ones. i just put the booster plug, and bike vives quite less thna before. no problems with iddle stall anynore. i am checking mileage with new booster. i am running second set of tyres brigestones TW301-302, very glad at dirt. 28.800km at the moment. top of mileage 369km 14liters
If you are looking for longevity out of your engine, stay away from the SS oil filters. They only filter to 35 mikron and that is not as good as a good paper filter. My BMW and Husky dealer tell me that the SS filters will void the warranty, so if they tell you different, get it in writing. Here is yet another nice writeup on the SS filters http://johnmaherracing.com/tech-talk/oil-filter-debate-reusable-vs-throw-away/ SS filters may have a place in racing, loose tolerance engines that need good flow, but in a low mileage daily driver it will do more long term damage than good. It will not give our engine more oil flow until the bearings are worn out, and they will wear out faster with the SS mesh filters.
I'm a proffessional engineer, tribology being one of my specialities, l've been using stainless filters not only on my various motorcycles, but also on all the various machinery equipment fitted to FPSO'S etc, where cleanliness of oil is critical I can assure you that stainless filters are the go, l think your dealers are relying on myths not facts Please note that none of the paper manufactures will guarantee their filters to remove particles less than 35 microns (which is very small)
Interesting reading the johnmaherracing article, l'm not conversant with the filter system that he holds in such low regard However, l agree that the byepass valve fitted to most paper filters does operate on differential pressure, that being the difference in oil pressure between the oil pump & the engine, it is fitted to protect the engine should the oil filter fails, the byepass allows unfiltered oil to lubricate the engine Car & other engines generally have an oil pressure valve somewhere in the lubrication system. Most motorcyle engines do not
I moved the Booster Plug airtemperature sensor to the very front of the airbox inlet, to reduce engine heat effects
That's funny, my jet engines did not run an air filter. I guess I can remove it from my bike. 30 micron is 400 grit sandpaper. My bearing clearances are that or less. Why would I want that coursing through the bearings? I would be impressed with a 5 micron mesh filter. A 20 micron might be considered, but 35 micron NEVER, not on anything I plan on keeping.
What's sand doing in your crankcase ? & your Husky is jet powered ? We're running 11kw Solar gas turbines on my FPSO
It's not, it's in the filter. Not mine, but a couple guys here have added the electronic Jet Kits (EJK). That reminds me, I need to contact Dobeck and get my Lexx flashed to TR650 specs. Just curious, you running those fancy 5 million watt spark plugs? Seems like you have access to a generator that may power them. Ya gotta separate the sales hype from the fiction. OH, and I called BMW to verify about the filter warranty, and they said it was an individual dealer decision. And I also checked into the manufacturing of the SS filters, and it seems they all look the same and are produced in China. So somebody ripped somebody off or somebody is lying. My Harley dealer had them sitting on the parts counter. I asked them if it voided the warranty and they could not or rather would not tell me. If they say it don't void the warranty, get it in writing from someone in charge. But I assure you, the abrasive properties hold true, and 35 micron is a good pre filter. I have the uni pod filter and in the old filter area I put a coarse scrubber soaked in oil. It catches alot of dirt and the uni is clean. Does that mean I can take the uni out? I sure could and the bike would run fine. And I catch all of the big dirt and alot of the smaller stuff. The SS filter catches NONE of the smaller stuff. I guess the true test will be 10 or so years from now, suppose you will still have the TR650?
I owned my Suzuki GS1100G for more than 15 years & 175,000 klms, oil changes at 5-6,000klms, awesome motorcycle in many ways, replaced by a ZRX1100 in February 1999, has now completed more than 122,000klms again oil changes at 5-6,000klms I wouldn't be surprised at all to see me still punting the Terra across Australian Desert Roads when I'm 80 I've fitted many motorcycles with the K&P (made in the USA) filters, so far not a single complaint or sign of damage By the way, that's me standing underneath, one of the "big toys" I get to "play-on" Google "Northwest Snipe" or "Vox Maxima" or "Stybarrow Venture"
