Cylinder head repair

I wish I knew for sure but most people say getting some dirt in the intake can cause it. In my case, once the intake valve started moving, it was fast, the surface where the valve seals with the seat was wearing and cupped. I didn't do rings or piston, I just cleaned everything up, the piston and cylinder looked new still, if I had more time I might have done more. I removed head without pulling the motor but removed the motor after I shipped my head off. Pulling the motor if pretty simple and gives you a chance to clean and lube things, plus I would not want to put a top end together in the frame.

Great info thanks, yeah I think that I have got dust in the engine at some point, I had the valves adjusted at the shop cause it wouldn't start, lasted 300kms then did the same thing, they have just re shimmed it again, but have told me the next time it happens ill need new inlet valves, I am going to do the job myself as I have access to the tools. Now I just have to find the cheapest place to buy the parts? Is halls the go or is there an aftermarket supplier?

Looked new on the 450 (after tedious cleaning), around 5,000 miles, I've never opened up the 510 in 20,000 miles. Who knows how these things work? Luck? Maintenance? Use?

Yeah that could a bit annoying noise.

I quess it is Maintenance and use...

Hello everyone!
please tell me ... I have a SMR 510 2009 ... I drove 9200km (5750 miles) ... did not participate in the race.
Should I change the piston, valves, timing chain? as stated in the manual to replace only 10 000km.
Sorry for the English. I'm from Russia takes Google

My importer say in here whole engine, all bearings, valves, valve springs, piston, piston rings, timing chain, cam chain tensioner,
cam chain skate, connecting rod bearing. You should check how they look, it depends on what is to be worn

oh my god!

My 2010 TE450 has almost 16,000 mile on it, dual-sport miles, runs great, no plans to do any engine work on it.

yes, it really depends on how it is driven. For me is 12.5 thousand kilometers in street use and is not taken from engine open, everything is as it should be.
The only 530 cc kit that has been placed in the n.5500 km.
You must to open engine and look inside whats is worn-out, also then you can change all bearings. Or you can drive, then fix it when it will broke or some metal rubbish some out when you change oil???

But that read in my manual book 10 000 km whole engine built-up+my importer say well, but i guess he say that for reason get some money+thats about is some line Husky´s engine.

if anyone was wondering, the newer 449/511 platform seems much the same. I've all most 7k on my DS TE511 with all original parts and valves haven't budged at all...

also, older husky rider, that rally/wind shield fairing you've got is awesome! may i ask where you got it?

It's a Lynx by Britannia
http://www.britanniacomposites.com/index.php/products/lynx16

20,000 trouble free miles? Interesting. I bought mine at 10,000 km and it had just gotten a rebuild with new piston and cylinder. Now it's got 17,000 km and it blew a head gasket. I'm pretty annoyed and I was thinking they're crap. I know the first owner was pretty hard on it, but I've been meticulous with the maintenance for the last 7000 km. Always kept the valves adjusted. They got way out of wack when the head gasket blew. The engine kept running for awhile after I adjusted the valves and finally it wouldn't start at all. No oil in the water or vis versa and the cylinder held a leakage test, so it took me awhile to figure out what had happened. I emptied the coolant out and blew air in the cylinder and it came out the side of the block. Bad news.

Anyway, should I worry about the valves or slap it back together, make sure they're in spec and go for it?

It's always going to be best to go through the head and have the seats recut and new valves , but I'd inspect them and leak test , then depending how good/bad they really look decide on which route. If the valves aren't coated a quick lapping helps , but don't do it on coated valves or ones that are just hard on the outer couple thousanths.

Yes. I tried to pull my head in the bike and the studs extend too far. Won't clear the frame.

I've pulled my head twice by removing the cylinder studs and pulling those out the top of the head, then, then head just slides off the cylinder.

Nice guys. I know plenty of guys with Husky`s running around with lots of miles/hrs on them by me, mostly the SM 510/450s. I had 20,000 on my 510 SM when I sold it to my buddy a couple years back and its still running good. All I ever did was change the oil every 1K miles and check the valves every 2K, it needed a few valve adjustments but thats it the motor has always been tight. But those are street miles which are a lot easier on the bike that off road miles in my opinion. The #1 killer of these motors (head gaskets/rod-crank bearings) is detonation, if you have it you have to run better fuel or an additive.

On the off road bikes dirt, sand and silt in the intake will def wear out valves and cylinders fast

I dunno man? My SMR is always pinned on the street!