I'm going to leave it there so others with similar issues can at least have a clue what happened. I wonder if you couldn't fashion those pins from aluminum or lexan?
TerraCzar is it the button itself or the pushrod thats given out? These buttons are pretty common and have a "wok" shaped internal contact which after repeated use flattens and does not work, but they are pretty easy to replace. Can you take some better pics....?
It was visible in one of the pics he posted http://www.cafehusky.com/attachments/105_4124-jpg.43686/ It's the post that holds the button mechanism to the plastic frame of the dash which has broken.
What I was thinking is if you had a push button switch on the bars, similar to a starter button, wired in place of the existing pressure switch or perhaps to either side of it. This would replace the current button on the dash. It would appear the way this switch works is a quick activation changes between modes and a long activation resets the mode it is in.
The problem would be getting the wires out of the dash and still retain the dash's seal. You possibly only need to bring out one wire, since most of these switches will connect to ground. If there were a spare pin in the connector the problem would be solved. The wiring diagram suggests that there is, but I haven't looked to see if one exists. The switch blocks are the same as used by Benelli. The Tornado and TNT's bring the dash mode switch wire out to an auxiliary switch mounted on the left block front screw. If you could find that housing the job would look like it was original.
Shouldn't be a problem. The wires are only tiny (0.3-0.5mm) as they carry hardly any current. A 2.5mm hole drilled into the case, wires fed through, a tiny blob of silicone either side and a thumbnail-sized piece of that super-sticky heatshrink over the top, glued to a roughed patch of the casing material, also positioning the wires. If done with a little care, that should be at least "short-term submersible", easily "waterproof" enough for any spray/ washing related splashing.
So, I'm not much on electronics/circuit boards, would I pull out that pressure switch, and "hotwire" it?
I don't know what the circuit board looks like underneath that dash-button. In one form or another the button will actuate a tiny pressure contact-tongue that bridges 2 contact points on the board (either directly or via some mechanical means of tiny plastic arm/ roller/ cylinder etc). Thin wires have to be soldered to those 2 contacts and routed out of the instrument case to a handlebar mounted button.
The board has a switch soldered to it, which the pin presses on. From the picture posted earlier, they look like through hole switches, but if they are surface mount, the solution is the same, except that you can only connect to it from the top side. There will be 4 pins most likely acting in pairs, ie. permanently bridged inside the switch body. You need to measure the resistance between each pin, and each other pin (1-2, 1-3, 1-4, 2-3, 2-4, 3-4) with the switch in it's default position. Then repeat the measurements with it actuated. From that you should be able to determine which pins are doing the switching. Then measure the resistance of these pin pairs to earth. Hopefully you will find a pair that is connected directly, and these don't need to be brought out. Just pick up a convenient earth point outside the dash. Solder your wire (24-28 AWG is plenty good enough) to the pin that is not earthed and route it through the case. Use a dob of hot melt glue to anchor the wire to the board.
As the switch only performs one single function each time it's depressed, I doubt that it'll have more than 2 soldering points/ contacts. One each side...or one each side on the back of the board if it's a through-pin contact. !!IF!! that's the case, it's just as easy to run one wire to each contact without any need to ascertain if the contacts are positive or negative and what resistance/ current etc they run. The OEM switch bridges that connection... and so does the handlebar switch. And that's all that's needed. Actually, running twin wires to the bar would be beneficial , as the individual wires are very thin and running 2 parallel will make things a little stronger from the wear+tear/ snagging point of view. Use fine-stranded wire to account for the movement of the bars... the more strands, the better. Also...never, EVER connect a negative to any metal part "north" of the steering head tube, there's a distinct possibility of major "arcing" through the headstem bearings, particularly when the bearings get a little loose with age/wear.
Hi guys, The "S" button on my Strada stopped working after only 6,000km. As I still had warranty I dropped it off at the dealer. They advised me that it can take a very long time to get the parts and they would not be able to program it as BMW stopped the MOSS support... Are those buttons a common weakness on the TR650? Any recommendation how to fix or re-wire?
That is a fairly common problem. There are a couple of good write ups on how to bypass with a handlebar switch. Mine started going bad at less than 1k miles. It is a poor design. I think it could be modified easily by putting a short plastic collar around the bottom of the button, to keep the button pin aligned on the actual switch. The cluster comes apart easy enough to access that. Your new dash will be the same as what you have, so you really don't gain anything but the loss of riding your bike, and the satisfaction of sticking it to Husky for the repair. I might negotiate for a rebate on the bike price, around $500 would be a nice compensation.
The Dealer is incorrect in claiming they cannot program a new dash, it is simply they have not invested in the software etc to do it. Speak to current Oz distributor, and/or Paul Feeney Group. You could also check with Dahlitz Motorcycles in Canberra, they have invested in the equipment
I did a simple fix on mine with some 2 part plastic glue, the type with a primer and an adhesive. You have to pull the dash out, that is quite simple, remove the front screen, the three clips holding the dash in place and the wiring plug into the dash. To open the dash up you need a T6 torx. The plastic piece which has broken off will be floating around inside the dash. It only has a small contact area to fix it back in place, but mine has held fine with glue, and has since survived at least 100 presses and a few hundred km of rough and corrugated roads.
Thanks for posting this. Made me comfortable enough to attempt fixing mine. I did the same thing you did, but the glue didn't last long. I took it apart again and came up with the fix shown in the attached photo. It's been wired together for about a month now and seems quite robust. I also glued in a piece of old sunglasses lenses ground to the right size with a dremel over the high beam LED. Makes a great improvement to that too bright LED.
