That's them, but when I called they said that a third party was buying their tubing and selling on ebay, but listing Baron's contact info on the auction description. She said they DO NOT sell on ebay. This was after I had already won an auction and wanted to discuss quantity. Either way, I got my tubing and it's nice...
Yeah, I think I've got the sparky thing figured out too. Seems the 630 has a removable end cap that contains the screen. So if I cut off the other end and remove the cat, then I can run perf pipe to a cone that sits against the end cap and the perf will go over the screen. I guess it would make sense to weld that cone to the perf pipe. I wonder what kind of landing there would be for it at the end cap. Guess I'll have to pull it apart and see. Pack the whole thing and re-rivet. I can see it would be easy to shorten them 2-3 inches while you're at it. I'm wondering if that would provide any advantage. They are nice cans even if they're a bit heavy . I'd rather have a single can but hey, I don't have another grand to drop to save 15lbs or add 3hp. If I can open them up a little and cool them off I'd be real happy.
What you're talking about has already been done by Blazes on the 16th post of this thread (first page), and it's similar to what I'm doing on Saturday if I get the time. And no, the end cap is not removeable except with a saw blade... If you drill out all the rivets, the whole muffler, including inlet and end cap, slides out the back.
Did mine last Saturday, figured I'd drop it in here too... http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/my-take-on-converting-630-cans-to-flow-throughs.19706
I own an '05 610 and have thought about buying an aftermarket silencer or de-catting the stock pipe for a while (from what I've read the silencer is one of the biggest restrictions there is on this bike). I can't see anything wrong with my exhaust (header or silencer) but at my last MOT (this is an annual vehicle check for the benefit of my foreign friends! And is a legal obligation.....) they commented that the exhaust was noisy. It's never struck me as very noisy (but not quiet either!) so it's given me the kick up the arse I've needed to consider modding or even replacing the silencer. Seeing as they want it quieter does gutting it make it louder at all? Part of me says yes it will but part of me is hoping no..........I'd rather try gutting the std can before shelling out £250+ on an Arrow etc.
Mine isn't any lounder than stock, nice mellow thumper tone, well under 94db. I dunno if it matches the 84db of stock, but certainly no where near over legal limit. I can't imagine any inspection giving trouble with a stock muffler.
finished mines on the 630sm today.. did not ride it yet.. but as soon as i started it and revved it a bit.. i notice it was smoother on the throttle and sound.. not too loud either.. ill see if i can power wheelie in 2nd.. this will deter if it added hp and torque.. because i tried many times.. next mod is a 14t front sprocket.. i think power mods is maxxed for this bike.. for me.. time to improve the suspension.
Busy doing the caterectomy on my 610 - I am gobsmacked at how strangled this zorst is and the weight of the internal baffles, spark arrestor and cat! The can is extremely well made by Lafranconi - beautiful extruded alu outer core and good qaulity internals - just SO MUCH restirction!? Cannot wait to finish up.
Cool --enjoy the suprise afterward's just done Herman's ( White Shark) on the SA Forum and rode with him on Sunday --he just loves it and the bike just pulls so goooooooooooooooooooooood
I have two things that have been keeping me from de-cating my 610 (2008). 1st I dont want to have to replace the packing. I am assuming that the original setup doesn't have a packing that has to be replaced? 2nd I am assuming after de-cating the EFI setting would need to be adjusted? Any truth to those, or work-arounds?
As for the packing, it should last you a couple years or more, depending on how hard you are on it. If you've got the TE, then I believe the endcap is held on with screws instead of rivets for easy disassembly. The SM is riveted. At least that's the way they did it on the 630's... For the fueling, yes you would need to richen it up to make up for the added flow. Is your bike carbed or EFI?
The TE end cap with spark arrestor is fastened into the end of the cans with machine screws. Easy to remove for repacking when it finally needs it. I would guess every couple of years or when it needs it. For an SM, removing the rivets would be a lot more difficult. A $10 wadd of packing material will do the two. The 610 has a single can anyway, right? The EFI should be adjusted with a Power Commander on a dyno if you want peak performance out of the motor. That's really the only way to dial it in precisely. Done this way they'll pass 60hp at the rear wheel. That said, I'm running mine stock with the PU mod, airbox baffle removed, and it runs very strong and really clean. No bogs, no surges, perfect idle, at all temps and elevations, so I'm plenty happy with that. I would guess I'm about 90% without spending all that money (which I don't have!). The guys with the JD box swear by it, which would allow you to bump the mixture at various throttle settings and fine tune the motor. And yes, the internal cans do not require repacking, they are a stainless baffle with a simple offset in and out tube of 1-1/4" pipe. Not a lot of resistance there but more than a straight 2" perforated pipe nonetheless. I weighed my two internal mufflers and cats and got about 8lbs. Based on that, the wonderful claims of saving 17lbs with an expensive aftermarket exhaust system doesn't seem so grand. At least not to me. As said, the stock cans are very nicely made, they even have the husky logo gun-sight molded into the stainless end cap - pretty cool. This is my opinion. Another owner may come along and tell you everybody is wrong and the only way to setup the bike is with a single can Leo system and a JD tuner. Whatever. EDIT: RDTCU posted while I was typing.
Isn't the '08 carburated? If so, some re-jetting would most likely be in order. Couple of pilots and mains and some test runs. If the bike runs clean now I'd probably try a size up on each and go from there. The science of jetting is just so much fun aint it?
For me it was a no-brainer... $25 for some pipe and packing? Or $500 to $1200 for an aftermarket exhaust?
Going good. I have just to do a few spot welds and then button it all up. I have a few observation regarding Blazes very good illustrated tutorial on this - It is best to cut the end piece at the second ridge (see pic) in order to release the perforated cap and then the steel wool just pulls out, rather than trying to cut into it etc to extract the crap first (I started this way...)! One could probably do this cut straight off. I also found an internal pipe reducer of perfect size in a Remus endpiece/baffle removed from a Hexicone. I have used this in the core instead of a 'funnel' to locate and terminate the end-cap. This also allows for it to be angled a bit to accomodate the angle of the exit pipe in the end-cap. I have also circumcised 90mm in length ... this makes it about the same length as the LVX3 and also pulls it back from the indicators (which are probably going to go anyway as have one of those nice integrated units like yours from Schlowy). Will post pics when all done.
