Does anyone else have this issue - First take off after bike has been sitting for awhile regardless of ambient (5 degC - 30degC) or if you let it idle for 5 mins or not, you have to keep the revs up & slip the clutch to prevent it stalling. However if you kill the engine & restart, you can get rolling as per normal? Done it too many times to be a coincidence; must have something to do with fuel mapping. No BP installed.
Hey mate, yes and no and yes again if im not careful! It all depends on what fuel I use and it appears to me the terra is sensitive to fuel quality and density. Hi Comp Injected singles demand high quality fuel, miss 2 beats in a row and its over! (Using the power tuner on my yz, if I lean out the fuel map for the top end and use crap fuel it wont idle at all) This is especially critical for the TR in its current Lean condition. Running a BP seems to help the bike with coping with different grades of fuels. (and IMHO less top end)
I had the stalling problem for the first 2 months I owned the bike (and I have a booster plug). Based on recs on this site I started warming the bike up for 3-5 minutes before riding and the problem went away. I suspect that advice is akin to the IT guy asking if you tried restarting your computer (duh) but this simple adjustment worked for me.
I thought about that and tried it too. Still does the same thing even I've warmed it up thoroughly and riding after a half hour or more. My conditions are still the same as I shared in the OP. And as an IT guy in real life....I tried the reboot too.
Yeah.....nah. Same occurs when I fill with 95 or 98. The local servo is the only in the suburb so high volume i.e. stale fuel shouldn't be an issue. Even if I idle for only 10secs, kill the engine (no ignition cycle) then restart, take off will be fine. Thanks for your detailed reply. "Hello IT. Have you tried turning it off and on again." Seems to work for the Terra; good call Roy.
Well, the start engine/stop engine/start engine is about the only thing I haven't tried ( got Wuka, but still stalling). I will give it a go, but I've just about given up on a solution. Remossing is my last hope.
Had my ECU software upgraded & parameters reset two weeks ago by my dealer (should have been six months ago but too busy) and it is a different bike. Aforementioned stalling issues a thing of the past. Probably will still do the 15T c/s sprocket mod though.
Hey guys, this thread is probably dead. But I have the same issue, and it doesn't have to do with rpms. I could be at 4500rpm and let off the throttle then slowly get on the throttle and right between where the throttle is soft and goes to more agressive it does the hesitation thing. It's random too, for a few days it will do it then it dissappears for a month. Only mod I have done is the airbox pod mod.
It's time. I am having exception results with the Brisk Multispark plugs. Seems the NGK falls flat for alot of people, even new. Also as some have noted in other topics, time to clean the Idle Air Motor (stepper valve) which is on the throttle body.
How long did you ride after change before coming to a conclusion? After changing to brisk spark plugs and resetting the ecu, my bike still had a flat spot around those rpms on the first ride. By the 3rd ride, it completely dissapeared.
It wasn't there for the first 2 min of the first ride, but I have ridden it for about 3 tanks so almost 500 miles with the new plugs. I have a feeling the throttle body is pretty dirty, there was dust when I opened the airbox to the mod. I'll probably check the brakes too, it feels like the bike is dragging (not rolling freely).
My Terra did not have significant stalling/stumbling issues when new, but I went ahead and installed a WK anyway, and that improved things a bit. Then, sure enough, a little past 3K miles I started getting the dreaded 3K stumble. The first time it was severe and kinda freaked me out. I've done the battery disconnect for a half-hour-plus/ECU reset and warm-up routine a few times, and it usually seems to help some, but then the problem starts coming back. Just this AM as I was riding/stumbling I wondered if maybe a blocked vent might be starving the engine at minimal throttle, and so I stopped, removed the fuel cap and put it in my pocket, and then rode another half-hour, trying to reproduce the problem. Might have been a little soft at 3K, but never any serious stumbling. Shazam! Well, no, it's too early yet to declare victory, but I'm going to have a close look at my fuel cap and continue trying to assess the issue.
I had that dragging feeling too, from the rear. It was slow to let go. I replaced the fluid and it all came good, must have been some air in the system? from new.
I've been having dead spot as well, ecu resets help for short terms. I noticed today that after letting the bike idle for several minutes while cleaning the chain, on my ride to work I didn't feel the dead spot at all.
Hi John, I just noticed this thread and read through it going back to 2013. Based on the data we took from TRZ_Charlie's bike, which confirmed the usual lean Closed Loop operation during cruising, the reports that BoosterPlugs work for a while (until adaptation corrects the IAT shift) and that resetting the ECU works for a while ... I think you may be experiencing lean-surge. While there can be several causes, it is often due to the leanness mandated by the set-point of the stock O2 sensor. I am curious if a lambda-shift to a few percent richer would cure your problem. I have a fully-functional beta unit that I tested for Nightrider on the BMW bikes and that has been tried and worked on Terra 650s. Would you like to borrow the unit and give it a try? All it will cost you is postage for Priority Mail, two ways. RB
I already have an AF XIED installed, the only difference I have noticed between different settings is changes in my fuel economy and soot build up on my exhaust.
So if you see that more fuel is consumed, your mixture is being richened. If after several tanks of fuel you're still getting the flat spot, then it's not mixture related most likely. Are there any changes to your bike that might have effected the spark timing? On my bike I'm chasing down a subtle issue having to do with the secondary plug in a dual-plugged engine. When one of the plugs doesn't fire it has the effect of retarding the timing.
