250-500cc Deja vu. WRK250 back to how it was in 1999

peach, apple or melons, all good and very distracting

Still waiting on a Titman for my wheels

Here's a good line I try to use now and then.

You see somebody eating an apple or fruit of any kind.

Ask them, "Do you like fruit?" They reply, "Yes, I like fruit."

You reply back, "Why don't you take a bite of my as_, it's a real peach!"

i say get another husky, but all you need to do is go a few years older (real husky) or a few years newer (easy to get parts for) italian..

Mods, can i please post without being vetted each time.

Don't think I want an older one than I already have. When you say a few years newer, do you mean around 95-98 ish?

I'll keep my options open but I've never owned a new bike or car. The thought of buying someone else's worn out problem child scares me. Been there with the WRK250.

Will think long n hard. What ever I buy I don't plan on selling it ever. Makes the idea of a new one more feasible.

Castor mate, buy what makes you feel good!!! I've been riding a 95 WR360 for over 15 years and just recently dumped the motor in 2000 WR250...why? Cos l'm chasing the feel of a more modern chassis and suspension but to be honest, after buying my first 4 stroke being a 2013 FE350..the handling, the suspenders, brakes, geometry and overall feel of a real modern bike just can't be compared.
I still love my vintage bikes but unfortunately, they do have their limitation and those only due to age. Sure l could fit triple clamps and KYB's from TE's circa 2010 and rear shock, it doesn't distinguish the fact that the chassis is a 95 or a 2000 vintage and so are the motors...and like you, won't be selling'em just preserving a husqvarna built in 95 and 2000.
But, i don't see me keeping this FE the same as my current husky's.

this has been an interesting thread to follow
truly challenging to do this year for restoration as it was not a big production number and had transition plastic that is vey specific
I tip my hat as you have stayed the course, I see there is a bike like yours on Craigslist nearby and find it interesting due to your postings, my local dealer has 3 items NOS plastic for your model and they are interesting to look at to see the progression of the years
keep up the work and he pictures

92 and up are a ton easier to locate parts and bodywork for...the "odd" years like you have are certainly good bikes...i had 2 cagivas, an old 200 and an 87 250...both handled and ran awesome..but they both made my swede huskies seem like a honda as far as parts go.
ive grown up on 80s bikes so i really like the comfort and handling of 80s/90s machinery. im fully aware there are some advancements made on newer things but comfort has gone south and i honestly do not care for the ergonomics. the "flat 2x4" seat most bikes have sucks..
i really like the italians but my heart lies with the swedes..its surprising whats available for the 80s models.

Totally agree but...now that I've gotten used to it and adjusted to me the more modern ergos are better. When I ride my XR I feel cramped and just want to sit instead of stand. Even in the mid 90s I raced an '85 model because even then I didn't like the newer ergos. Now I'm glad I stepped up and spent the coin though.

edit: haha...just realized it took me 20 years to actually do it

LoL...us guys that keep these prehistoric bike all have one thing in common..love for these bikes. Mates often say why don't you just sell my old 360 or the 250, what l've spent on them you can't recover but for the 360, really there is no 2 stroke out there that compares to the 360 motor and probably Justintendo hit on the head, l probably liked it because l do love the feel of that bike hence it's a keeper.
The biggest plus side is a sense of pride that you've got this prehistoric bike that goes anywhere and keeps up with any modern bike...kids born in the 90's look at it like it's a POS but when your on top a hill waiting for them

You got my attention. If the NOS plastics are rad shrouds they would make a fantastic Xmas present if I could buy them. Wink wink nudge nudge ! I'm thinking you can see the slight difference between my model specific cut outs (slightly curved bottom and LH / RH being mirror images of each other). I often see the reproductions by DC Plastics that are for other models.

I've derailed my own thread with a crush on the new model. What got me to drag this bike out of the barn was me looking at Honda CR500E and Service Honda CR500AFX bikes to register.

If I were a betting man, I'd lay money on the CR500E holding value, if not, then increasing. I've ditched the CR500AFX idea. For that money I'd rather a brand new TE300.

Will get to drool all over a CR500E that is in crate condition soon. Could be for sale if real money is offered. This guy knows boats so doubt it'll be a bargain... Cringe :s

One things for sure, $13500 (+ on road costs) could buy a real nice mid 90's - mid 2000's bike with a heap of change for rebuilds or go towards a new shed/workshop.

Think I need a rich sugar mummy

wheels are done & have shipped. should arrive by next Monday they say. Let the build continue. You probably won't see this post until then anyway

Any pics of the build so far?
^
New

New rims & spokes on refurbed hubs.
Anyone looking to buy a kidney or part of a liver just PM me

looking sweet

Them there are very sexy wheels

I'm trying to design a repair for the sprocket to hub bolt holes. They are worn/elongated as you may notice in the pic. Doubt I'd be able to have them ally welded in to redrill so open to ideas.

Have toyed with the idea of using a liquid metal filler like JB Weld.
1- Temporarily fit sprocket in place with 2 opposing bolts and ensure its centered, coat around sprocket holes, bolts and nuts with a release agent (spray lube).
2- Locate bolts and tape across heads to keep in place.
3- Mix two part liquid metal and completely fill void around bolts with a little excess. Install nuts.
4- Remove the first two bolts used as locators and repeat the filling process.

*will test the release agent works allowing future bolt removal.
*hoping the two part metal like 'JB Weld' will be strong enough not to fracture and crumble under compression loads.
*don't mind having to redo this if I find any of the fillings deteriorate over time.

Another option is to make half moon spacers that prevent the bolts moving in the holes. The sprocket and nuts should contain them.

Just another crappy little issue

I have some wheels that look like those from a 1990 WXE 250.

JTR who did my rims & spokes initially suggested a type of insert also. They then said the holes would need to be over sized too far leaving too little of the hub holding them :/

Will look into these. Not too keen on removing much material. If I can get an insert in and use the liquid metal to fill any void I'd be happy.

Hi Rancher, did the 90 model have drum or disc rear end?