DO I NEED A FLYWHEEL WEIGHT ON MY CR150 OR AM I JUST BEING A WUSS?????

I still think the bike just nees some fine tuning.

For ideas, here is what I have done to mine.
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/one-strong-150.18103/

I am usually never happy with the way my bike runs but as it sits now I love it. It pulls hard and early but there is not much of what I would call a hit. I do stall it once or twice a ride now if I am doing real tech low speed stuff all day but it is not bad. It stalls no easier than every KTM 200 I have ridden, it is just not as almost impossible to stall as a WR. Speaking of a KTM200, a buddy of mine rode my bike and a 200 last ride and said mine had more low end and was better at climbing. So I am confident you can get a CR150 to work, especially for a fast guy which it sounds like you are. If you add FWW I would not go too big as then the motor will not want to spin up which is what I do not like about the WR.

Walt... TONIGHT!! I have to do some welding on the frame to fix up the broken motor mounts and i am putting the 144 on as well. Should i check the squish before i fire it off? Sorry for the hijack

Great! Good place for a first enduro! Hope you do good and have fun!

All makes sense to me. But remember I'm a fast A guy. My finger is ALWAYS on the clutch lever and at work. It is a 150 yes. I use it on accel on decel. It is not really the problem with stalling that is driving me nuts, it is the hold on or die light switch that this engine acts like between 1/4 and 1/2 throttle. Jetting?? At this point I can ride my WR150 way faster. Not sure why. Lots of work this week and I should figure it out. Bought a flywheel anyways.

Maybe you can adjust the power valve?

You are right. If my WR will work I'm sure with a little fine tuning the CR engine will be AWESOME! Thanks for the info!

Ben,
Yes, I would check your squish just to be sure. What base gasket are you going to try first? The .5mm will give you ~ 155 psi, .4mm ~165, and the .3mm ~175. I would try to hit about 95-96 octane for either of the last two. I think Mark is running av gas and his should be in about the 170 range. He likes his as you can tell from his earlier post. The extra octane will certainly help your bottom and smooth out the power band some. My high compression 144 top end with ~210 psi runs amazing with no real hit but solid power everywhere so throttle control is paramount. It has spit me off backwards a couple of times just wicking it on in 3rd to 4th below the power valve. Yours probably isn't going to have quite that response but pretty close.
Keep us informed,
Walt

185 PSI Had to fiddle with the o-rings to get it to seal up, then it gave me a good reading. How does 50/50 110 leaded sunoco purple mixed with 91 octane pump super? THis thing is going to RIP ! BTW, i ran 2.5 gallons of 110 mixed with 1.5 gallons of super at a two day race this weekend. I ran a tank of normal super first, then switched to the 110 mix, bike ran better. Just seemed to be crisper and more responsive. Had a guy track me down in the pits and go on about how good the bike sounded on the track FLetchman, i know the race gas is spendy but it might be worth messing with. This was with a slightly advanced timing as well.

Ben,
50:50 will give you just a tad over 100 with those two. If you are going to use the 110 then go ahead and mix it with regular unleaded. Will still give you a 98 octane and save you a few bucks.

Cool, thats handy since i can get ethanlol free regular at the place with the race gas.

okidoki. just responding to the topic title.
i was an A (looooong time ago). now im a B+ maybe on a REALLY good day.

i actually prefer the 2-stroke MX bikes (CR's, RM's, YZ's) for enduro/off-road in rocks mud and alpine. love the MX hit and light weight. esp when picking it up and dragging it over ledges and stuff and esp when there's grip, and at altitude too (read power loss over 6000' and up). the front is just so light it clears everything (logs, ledges etc). i dont like trail-bike power or suspension.
if it got tight and nasty i'd go up a gear and lug it or slip the clutch. ya get better traction slipping the clutch with the engine spooled up and pulling a higher gear anyways so....

how heavy a FWW did you get? had 3 for my hard enduro CR's. if it was snotty i'd run the 14oz., rocks 11oz, hard pan 10oz. had a CO2 bottle in my box w/ an impact on a 24" hose and & could change weights in less than 5 mins (not the same ignition i know). i run the least weight possible while still getting that "pull".
a big ol honkin' FWW will kill some snap on some engines. so lemme know how it works. it might be just the right amount of relief yer lookin for. a little goes a long way. keep riding the CR, the hit wont be noticable after a while and will be there when ya need zap.

also- put a tad more play in yer rr brake pedal maybe?

my '09 WR125 aint got an true MX hit per say but it gives up little or nothing in a drag race or overall performance to my wingman's '07 YZ125 and his is stock sans pipe and pretty quick (Vet Pro). his has more snap and bark when free-revving it, more pop out of a corner- but my WR hooks up more. he's got a race pipe and muffler. my WR's stock with an FMF t-core sparky muff so it' quiet. if i ride it right we can bang bars and it's who gets tired first that loses. (i got 8 years on him so its nice when i win and eat on his dime hahaha) it's really a neat comapro. his is a full on YZ 125 MX bike going off-road (cept for the oem husky TC glide plate i zip-tied on his blue bike so it's had some case protection lol), mines a 125 WR. im as fast (or slow) on either.

The diameter has some affect as well as the weight of the FFW. I put a short blocky 12oz. on my GasGas 200. It spools up a little smoother and stays spooled without bogging as easily. I really like it better after adding the weight. Just throw one on and see what you think but I bet you will like it.

nothing wrong with trying a flywheel weight. if your bike is hitting really hard you might check to make sure your powervalves are working.