Thanks for the info Dynobob that's very informative! It looks like all ground connections are good but I have not yet checked all fuses. Do you advise that I check/replace fuses and check for correct current to battery? I'm certain the original voltage regulator is now fried but I could try the other. I'm really hoping for a fairly easy fix...my dealer can't get me a new VR for another month and they can't even confirm if it comes with the VR connector and wire. Anyways, the trouble symptoms are: bike outright quit on me while on the road. Let it sit for 5 mins it started right up drove it for another 5km before it finally quit. Other times I would ride and everything would be fine until I shut it off and try to start it again. After this point dash lights up and when I press start button it goes dim and flickers numbers....no starter relay click or fuel pump prime sound. I then recharge the battery fully and bike starts right up. Lastly, if the fuse in the start relay popped would that not disable the starter relay entirely? Please let me know. Thanks for your help so far.
Starter relay fuse is good as well as all other fuses. Although, I have replaced the starter relay before. When that popped I'm pretty sure the original VR fried at that point. The positive battery terminal connector was fairly oxidized and dirty...do you reckon that a poor connection to the battery could cause the symptoms that I have described above?
I won't be as much help as Dynobob and others but I'd suggest (as cheap as they are) proceeding with changing the fuses. With the type that they are it can happen that they look good, but aren't. Given the on/off nature of the issue and what else you've described I'd also very carefully trace the wiring- as I'm sure you've also read Huskies are somewhat notorious for having frays because of routing.
Yes. Your symptoms line up with a corroded connection somewhere, could be power or ground. It could also be the reason your battery isn't charging. If you probe the red wire right at the regulator (with the bike running) what is the voltage? The symptoms also sound like a battery going bad internally but I think you said it's new.. Does your VR have heat sink paste on the back side? It should. .
Also, I'm 95% sure the Husky VR is the same used on many Hondas. Pretty sure my 900RR or Pacific Coast VR would swap on. .
Much thanks for the helpful suggestions guys. I think we all agree Husqvarnas are quality, reliable machines if properly maintained. Whatever the issue, Im sure its not one related to outright component failure. It could be a small issue but as always the stress and worry of having a non functioning bike or mode of transportation usually exacerbates the actual problem. When I noticed the frayed red VR wire I automatically assumed the VR was either fried or wire current was compromised. Anyways, I have a fuse tester which i used to confirm that all fuses are good. My only question is...what fuse rating should be plugged into the starter relay. I currently have a yellow 20A in the starter relay. Dynobob, I have also confirmed previously that AC current of approximately 80 volts+ (if i remember correctly) is getting to the VR with RPMs at 3500 and above. The AC current gradually increases as throttle input increases. However, I will probe the red wire again once I get the gas tank back on. As for the battery yes its a brand new Yuasa YTX-14 BS. Also, there is no paste between the silver VR back plate and the bike frame. The VR is made in Japan so it could be the same as a Honda. If i determine that my second VR is fauly i may order a new one through a Honda dealer.
Dynobob, for the red wire test...battery has to be fully charged and meter set to ac volts. Then make sure ground is on metal then attach red meter probe to the red wire connector and black meter probe to a ground. Is this procedure correct? Let me know please! Thanks.
No. Meter set to DC volts. Red wire should be reading ~14v with the bike running. The yellow wires are the only AC voltage on the bike. (should be 40+ volts)
OK I tested the stator (while it was out of the bike) according to workshop manual instructions. It passed all readings. This is an indication that the stator is good...a new stator is almost 400 and I want to avoid buying a new one. If I do the above test I should get the required readings. If I do not, should I still assume the stator is bad or?
UPDATE: stator is producing a maximum of 90 ac volts with rpms around 6000. This is the reading I got from the yellow wires. Red wire test was not successful. Meter only reads 12.2 volts DC. Any thoughts on what these test results mean?
The Husky manual doesn't specify what the AC volts should be on the yellow wires. My Kawasaki specifies 'greater than 40v'. 90 sounds high but who knows? Either way your red wire should be reading 14+ volts with the engine revved up. Since your stator readings are normal I'd say you have a bad regulator. I'd find a cheap Honda unit and try it. http://www.ebay.com/itm/USA-Fast-Vo...ash=item3a9e20ed98:g:looAAOSwg3FUj4qD&vxp=mtr
Thank you. I was testing the regulator wire leads coupled in the connector. If the red lead should be reading 14 this means the source of power leading to the red wire lead is not up to par. I will check where the red wire starts and troubleshoot that as well. Does anything I'm saying make sense or am I over thinking things?
I think maybe you don't understand the flow of how the system works When the bike is running, the yellow wires carry the AC voltage to the regulator/rectifier and it converts it to approximately 14v DC. That voltage leaves the reg/rec on the red wire to keep the battery charged and run the bike. It sounds like your reg/rec is not creating the 14volts. The 12.2 volts you're seeing on the red wire is just the battery voltage that is present when the bike isn't charging. That voltage will drop as the battery goes dead. .
Ahh yes I was thinking the same thing actually. Ive done my fair share of mechanical work to this bike but electronics provide me with some adversity lol. I suppose my last question is: I can ride the bike as is (battery draining as I ride it) without causing any damage to the electrical components? And if anyone on this blog has ordered an oem regulator before does it come with the wire assembly as well? Ive been waiting on my dealer to provide me with that answer for weeks now. If im going to keep this bike for a while I want the added secuirty of a brand new wire since apparently parts for this bike are becoming hard to find/source. Again, thanks for the help, Im glad to finally be a part of the Cafe Husky community.
Seems like one problem after another. Just pulled off the spark plug boot and I noticed the wire coming out of the top of the boot and going to the ignition coil is severed. I can see the wires hanging out of the bottom. Possibly while it was still in the boot this wire was making intermittent contact with the boot wire. I'm assuming this is a major issue. Does this need to be fixed ASAP?
New plug wire is cheap, just go to the parts store with the old one for reference. Mine did the same thing. Do you have a boot puller?
Actually it was an easy fix. I just cut the rubber cover 1/4 inch to expose more wire. Then I inserted wire into the boot and threaded it onto the boot itself. There is a brass/copper spike at the top end of the boot that allows the wire to thread and keep it in place. This wire was loose--I'm assuming it's what was creating the power supply issues I've been having.
That reminds me of the good old time before electronic ignition. The shop would insert a probe in the spark plug wire to plug their timing light. Later the the bike would stop running when it was raining or you tried to cross a river because of the hole they made to insert the probe. Himidity would get in there and short the wire. The good old time, I don't really miss it :-)
I did this first, but my plug wire must have been shorter than yours, it was pulled a little tight, so I swapped it.
