TE/TC Drilling holes in airbox cover

As I stated above we had the little Italian bike on the dyno with less than desireable HP numbers....(the engine used is basically a Derbi Senda engine with racing top end....the cylinder was a special racing unit and pipe was a hand made chamber. when we ran the thing up the intake sound was muffled to me. so upon a good inspection, the induction side had little airflow into the box. just by drilling it and installing the UNI button filters we added like 3hp to the number and when you are talking 12HP up to 15HP that's a huge gain % wise. So I imagine that as MXA said they really found a lot power that was missed on the Husky and found with the Kato, on the 4T bikes, lets see how the 2T machine likes it. Most of all lts see how I like it!! might be too abrupt-- I like smooth enduro all day racing low fatigue power.

Will be trying this on monday on my 350

that's what Im talkin about!!! nice job bowser. the mesh I used is like the same stuff, the one opening is certainly more airflow than my 3 holer.....good thing is that I can do your bowser sized mod easily if we want more air.

Again the engine is a "Air pump".... more air in = more air out which = more power....

here in mud land I would do on the bottom edge but out there I would do top.... looks good Bowser

here's my deal. will ride tomorrow

oooooo new c/s what chewed up ur grafixs?

looks like a knee brace

Here's what I did to my FE 501 side panel a while back. I could feel the difference with just 2 holes. This bike certainly isn't lacking any power but it does help get some air into the airbox. I have 2 more sets of spare plastics and without a doubt, I'll be doing something similar to those too.

boots and knees, Sidi crossfire TAs and now SR as for knees I wear Thor knee "pads" framed but not really braces. I have always rubbed off graphics on my bikes, lots of riding and lots of body English I guess.

also I use my new fave Spectro Z clean Zinc chain lube, I love the stuff, thats what all that white lube is, I think thats what you asked.
http://www.spectro-oils.com/z-clean-chain-lube/

i like it, did not touch carb at at, she has been safe rich anyway.....more peppy more lively feeling it changed for the better, pulls better from bottom

I liked it too!

Rode my FE 501 today for about 4 hours. The FE 501 pulls hard anyway but to me it feels snappier with just the two holes I put in the airbox side panel.

When I got home I washed the bike off and pushed it up on my Bike lift for an oil change. Before I lowered the lift. After putting the skid plate back on. I stood up an a crate and reached over to crank the engine over a few times for a few seconds with the kill switch pressed. I crank it over to get some oil pumping through the engine before I start it up.

Once started I can immediately, with the bike raised, and standing level next to the airbox, with the engine just idling. I can here the difference of the air getting into the airbox through the holes. If I put my hand over the holes, that intake side noise is nearly silenced.

So I would say the holes help to get air in there for sure. I hadn't really noticed the increase in airflow noise on the intake side before, I've only ran the bike a few times since doing this. But I could feel the difference riding it the first time after doing the holes.

If you put your head down there close to the openings while the engine is running, you can definitely hear the difference too.

By all means I think its a good mod. I ran a new Gnarley with the OEM silencer with an EE S/A end cap. no jet changes. Oh yea I put in an Iridium plug just to get modern, BR7EIX

I told Husq a daygo that my bike was a little stiff for slow going but when pushed she works super good----he mentioned she was like butter, so with that I know Im going in the correct direction--butter is perfect for this old fart. Oh and I also made changes to rear and front cranked in more preload into rear now shes at @ 26mm static and 103 race then I opened both reb and comp 2 clicks on the forks now back to holes in airbox

i found my fave set up fmf gnarley with stock muffler and ee s/a cap, may also try the fatty with the oem muffler

additional I went out with my gnarley and the turbine core muffler, the thing was too hard off the bottom I was not feelin it. so I went back to last weekends set up Gnar/OEM muffler with EE S/A cap and the 3 hole side cover. I felt much better. I also liked the GNar/Turbine core and no holes in the side cover for all the small trails we ride===== for me softer is smoother and faster as Pirelli says "Power is nothing without control". I will ride the Nat H&H with Gnar/OEM muffler EE S/A end cap and the 3 hole side cover.

Looking back to the past in my offroad champions books and at the 91 issue specifically all the Farioli KTM 125,250 and 300s had holes in the side covers......funny enough the KTM300EXC of Trolli had the same set up as my 2014 300, 3 holes with screening, even the holes looked about the same size.

I agree with you there on the holes Robert and if others don't like it and you want to please them, ha ha.

You can buy a new set of airbox blue side panels for about 14 bucks each. That's what would nearly complete the Husaberg look and it'll look even more like a Husaberg then their newer '16 models with Husaberg blue front radiator shrouds. You might as well get the blue fenders too they aren't that expensive.

I don't see them changing any of this plastic with a total redesign anytime soon until the factory is out of these left over Acerbis Husaberg plastics. Just like what they have been fitting to the last 3 years of these bikes since they started production.

Now personally I went with a full set of black panels. I haven't mounted them and won't for quite awhile. But I got a set of blue plastics too and spare whites also with the '14 style front radiator panel with the black trim. The '15 style yellow trimmed front panels suck. That's why I'm still tearing mine up for awhile longer while the brush is still really thick right now.

How do you find the steg pegs, I got a set off a mate not long ago and are about to install them.

Would like to see a write up of what you think of the Stegpegs.

I have some rubber dished pucks nearly identical to the ones they use but mine have a deeper recess that can easily be remedied. The picture shows a good approximate position of the rubber component itself and I see they are adjustable forward to rearward.

I've been holding on to them for awhile because I've been thinking of plasma cutting my own Aluminum Brackets on my Torchmate but they certainly look simple enough to make that I could easily do the brackets on the band saw in just a few minutes.

I have a pressbrake, to sharply put a kink in them to hug the subframe if needed. The left bracket looks nearly flat.

I'm just trying to decide how much I could really need something like this and how much I really stand up when riding to really use them.