Dual-sporting a 2010 TE 450, with cheap tricks

My packing job on the Arrow muffler did not result in the quiet operation that I was looking for so I sprung for the $65 solution, and I wish I would have done it before I cut the stainless guts out of the arrow can. This insert makes the bike sound exactly the way I want it to.

Db Killer-euro will definitely help bring the sound down.
OHR- if it starts hiccuping in hot tight areas with that new insert- try 1/8 turn on the Idle air screw- if that doesn't help: you may need to change CO1 settings.
I swap out between the standard spark arrestor and a 'similar' DB Killer that I fabbed- its larger diameter (.003" more than stock arrestor OD) and not as long (6").

My Clutch master- after I honed and actually got a chance to ride dripped a little and I could feel it- then it stopped and was fine- maybe it just needed to be seated and worked after reassembly and ridden at temp. Last weekend it never had an issue. So maybe I am in good shape- prior to this it would have failed on my last ride (lotsa clutch work all single track technical) but it was stable and predictable.

Is that the Euro ? Maybe I should have gotten the shorter one....it looks like I could drill some holes in the body of this one to match the 3 holes showing in the pic, if I need a little more flow. I will definitely be in some slow, hot, clutch slipping stuff this coming Sunday, will see how it works.

I saw your post on using some kind of gun barrel hone, I might try to wrap some emery cloth around some random Dremel bit

Unless they came out with a insert I don't know about; that's the right one to get for sound. The US Listed DB Killer is about the length of the base of the Spark arrestor, so actually its not quiet at all. (that is what I purchased, accidentally, then I just ran with it and got some stainless tube and welded it up). I tested it and the sound had dropped at that time form 99db to 94. I was happy with that as my goal to always hit is 96 (give some variance/wiggle room for weather, testing, and packing condition). Then I purchased a stainless kitchen sink screen from the hardware store cut as needed and welded that on the end for a spark arrestor. All that was not a cheap trick, because my insert costed the same as yours, which is why I got the part number wrong. No not a cheap trick- but it was a 'recovered asset and interest trick' plus it was a fun project for me.::A note to those that don't know- these incerts are OEM Husky/Arrow parts. There are 3 available for these bikes (2 mentioned here and the spark arrestor/ stock)

I was impressed that you could take a picture of the inside bore of your Magura. I figured I have nothing to loose when I honed mine since it had been leaking after rebuilding, then to inspect and I saw the imperfections. I used a .38 bore brush- and 1500 wet/dry sand paper. I did this by hand. I still wonder about others who reported their anodizing flaked- was mine absent of anodizing accept for the streaks found lengthwise?, which was not a scratch or recess, but a step or excess of material in the shape of a lengthwise streak (sorry I don't have a word for that). Similar to how yours looks in the picture as I can see. Anyway, so far so good.

Your shifter, the new one looks longer is this the case or is it the angle of the picture? Reason I ask is I am size 14, the shifter is realln not fitted right, I am finding it quite a bitch to get comfortable foot placement in MX boots.

The Driven shifter is not longer than the stock, as far as I can tell now. It feels the same on my foot,

The Motoz Tractionator Enduro IT 110/100/18 is 105mm at body and 126mm at the widest knobs.

That's a sweet looking tire.

TRACTIONATOR ENDURO I/T
50% Dry - 50% Wet - 50% Hard - 50% Soft. - Designed for serious off road grip, long wear and meeting international road use standards. Unique tread pattern and hybrid natural/synthetic compound sets the new standard for intermediate off road performance.

The TE450 was acting up a couple weeks ago, I found the 2 year old, $20 a foot submersible fuel line deteriorating in the tank, really not too pleased about the non-quality of this fuel line.

This past weekend, on a dirt ride, I hit a speed bump (a water pipe buried under some dirt) at a high rate of speed, did a pretty good "flyin' W" and for some strange reason, my 2.5 year old fuel pump died immediately after the hit, we hooked the battery directly to the old pump and it wouldn't make a sound. My buddy rode me 2up into town on his carbed Beta, loaned me his bike to go find a fuel pump, then rode me back out to the Husky and I was able to replace my CAcycleWorks pump with a 38mm car pump, and we finished the ride. I am really puzzled as to why a hard suspension hit would travel all the way to the fuel pump and crater it.

Also may have a blown a fork seal on the speed bump hit, fork oil soaked my brake pads, no front brake to speak of, I cleaned up the fork seal with some 35mm film negatives and replaced the several ounces of fork oil and am going to see what happens. Do the fork seals for a 2009 KYB equipped Yamaha WR450F fit the KYB Husky forks?

Regarding the leaky fork seal, I took the leg off and used a piece of film negative to clean out the fork seal area, didn't see anything come out. Replaced the 2-3 oz that was lost and back together, and no more leaking, I am happy not to have to replace fork seals right now, hot as hell in the garage.

Regarding the fuel pump and fuel line problems:
I got some more submersible fuel line, $28 a foot, what a rip-off. Replaced the pump strainer for about the 4th time, the new fuel pump is spec for about 12 Toyota models, across a 10 year span, millions of vehicles, that explains why almost any auto store will have that fuel pump. Crimped on some new connectors to match the new pump.

Have you ever had to replace the rubber ring on the assembly that mates to the tank? And what tank are you running? Stock?

Stock tank, I tried 2 of the IMS 3 gal and they both leaked.

OEM rubber gasket on the fuel pump assembly flange, I've never even put a little silicone spray on it to keep it soft, it's never leaked on the stock tank. The assembly has been taken out of the tank probably 30 times over 2.5 years.

Got up at 5:15, met my buddy at 7am, we had to be finished riding by 10am or risk being roasted alive....

I chose to do some gnarly single track right off the bat, and found out that my water temp sensor was shot, and my fan wasn't coming on, so I was boiling over all during the ride. Tom and I still got in a pretty decent circuit, hit alot of sweet spots, the pic below, you could stay in there for hours, making all your own single track thru the trees. The second pic shows how I measure my water temp sensor, I just put the laser dot on the brass coupling of the temp sensor, when the sensor is new and good, the fan ALWAYS kicks on at 220 degrees. The one I came home with today, the fan was not coming on at all. It's a $15 item and I always keep a new one handy.

I posted this on another thread, thought I'd go ahead and get it logged here, it was interesting to realize I had a fuel overflow system when I boiled my tank one time. My entire system is vented thru a WD40 straw on the rear tank. And when the bike is on its side, only a very little gas can escape thru that small straw. I used the WD40 straw since I got tired of having 2 hoses to mess with when I filled up the rear tank. The 1/4" notations in the pic might be 3/8", can't remember....also, pay no attention to the filthy air filter, I cleaned it right after the pic....

14,700 miles, time for the 15th (I think) new rear tire, I LOVE the Scorp XCMH 110 rear, it really is the perfect tire for me, my riding areas and the bike.



Here's the handiest little funnel filter I've ever had, I use it to filter the gas from/to my tank when I drain it to service the fuel pump, also, I filter the gasoline (I save it) that I use to clean my air filter, just a handy little filter, nurse gave it to me last year to catch a kidney stone

Cool little filter. So the gas come out clean and bright? I wonder what mesh it is?
I use disposable paper paint filters for straining various liquids in the shop but don't think they would catch the very fine silt from an air filter.

Gas is the worst thing to use on a air filter. My step dad from Muskogee OK showed me the gasoline cleaning method when I was 11 . Failed to show me how to re-oil filters too. I went threw top-ends pretty fast and the filters fell apart. lol