I have no issues finding the neutral, but I have some issues with the neutral light: Many false negative, and consequently many switch-offs when I lower the kickstand.
Hi NorthnTerraTory, can you get the little terra mossed up your way? Gapped new plugs in, Spoofer out for the mossing.
I have noticed the same starting to occur more frequently on mine. I think the neutral switch/sensor might need some attention after 10,000 miles.
11.5k miles, no trouble with neutral. If anything, it's easier to find than ever. Falls right in from second or first.
Ordered the plugs today. Will get it mossed next month when they remove the throttle restriction (if they still have the moss tool). Might see how it runs without the Wuka. Cheers for all the replies fellas. Great forum this one.
Northn TerraTory: i am curious to how your Terra 650 is running now. Did you give up on it? Reason I ask is because I am from the Philippines and our Husky TR650 riders club seems to have good results with the Wuka. And our winter season in Manila gets "freezing" cold to 15'C and summer usually averages over 30'C.
It's been running pretty good since I got it mossed and derestricted. I haven't plugged the Wuka back in, but will do so soon, as the weather is cooling down. The only problem I have now is since the deristriction the bike is really jerky on and off idle. If I bring the throttle back to the idle position, or rev it off idle, itis as if it jumps from no power to 1/4 throttle with nothing in between, making the bike 'jerk', where it used to be smooth throughout the rev range. I haven't been able to find what is causing this. Obviously something to do with the new throttle bracket as it never did it before. Has anyone out there got any ideas or solutions to this problem?
Before the bracket was changed you only got 3/4 throttle body opening for full throttle grip operation. When the bracket is changed you get full throttle body operation for the same throttle grip movement. This results in the throttle being "more responsive/sensitive", however you may want to check the free play in the throttle cable, if you have access to the workshop manual it's in settings and adjustments, page D5.
I understand it should be more responsive, but there is a definately on/off feeling at the bottom of the rev range. Doesn't feel right. The first thing I did was adjust the free play using the adjustment near the handle bars, but it didn't make any difference. Cyclone motorcycles. They said there had been changes made to it. They are also BMW dealers, so that may explain why they still have access? I had to take it back a second time, as they said the moss wasn't neccessary, until I told them about the TRS reset. After they had a look on the moss they said I was right and the TRS was only set at 77%. They also said there was nothing in Huskys derestricting instructions that mentions the moss/TPS reset. Crazy huh?
I have the well-known stall problems and i order ACCELERATOR module from Belgian manufacturer www.sol2.be The weather here in Greece normally is hot but this year we had very heavy winter with low temperatures. The bike had big difference after i install the module but...when the weather becomes hot i have a lot of problems in low rpm specially in traffic. Otry to put out the module…the bike becomes worst. I put it back again. I visit the best mechanic for BMW here in Athens and the only one who have the moss system. I have to bring him the bike in 2 days to make the moss update. He said that he will make the update WITH the module installed. Does anybody know if this is the right procedure or not?? Thanks a lot
ayrton63, I dont know if there is a right procedure, as it seems some bikes react differently. Please note also that my bike has never been put on the MOSS, but I have done the power down resets. My bike started running quite badly last year when the weather became hot and I had an item like the ACCELERATOR module installed. I found doing the power down reset with the module installed made the bike run really awful. Disconnecting the module, and then doing a reset made the bike run very close to how it did when new. Replacing the spark plugs made it run exactly like it did when new. I ran through the hot weather months with the module removed and then re-installed it after the weather turned cooler. I would remove your ACCELERATOR module and then have them do a MOSS reset.
I don't have the solution, but I'm experiencing the same problem. It's mostly visible in 1st and 2nd gears for me, here's a few situations when it's annoying: -Putting the bike 1st gear and letting it roll without throttle until the speed stabilizes, then twisting the throttle even as little as possible jerks the bike forward and letting it go jerks it back. This makes riding is slow traffic annoying as hell. -When letting go of the throttle at 1st gear and 2nd gear speeds, the engine breaking along with the on/off throttle causes a violent jerk. The higher the speeds the less it is visible. The bike was exhibiting similar behavior, but not as pronounced when my 1st 600 mile service was nearing. After the dealer did the service, the bike was as smooth as I've first gotten it. Someone suggested for me to check the Throttle Positioning Sensor and Idle Air Controller which I'll be checking when I get the chance. Does anybody know if I have to remove both plastics and the airbox in order to get to it? If the air box needs to go I might as well prepare the tools necessary for the podmod.
To get to the stepper motor you will need to remove the airbox. When removing it be especially careful of parts #9,10,11,12 and 13. They look like they could break quite easily.
