Good afternoon: I just wanted to update the group in regards. Moving forward with taking everyone's advice, I began with the process of elimination like Silver Bullet suggested. I removed the JD and reconnected all wiring back to factory. It fired right up and ran good. I shut it off and restarted it several times without a problem. I also let it warm up for a while to rule out a temperature sensor and took it for a ride. It did run smooth through the throttle with limited power of course. I figured since I had it apart I would run it to the dealer to see what codes existed from IBeat, then document and reset. This way I can really rule out the JD. I trailered it and put the Lamba Sensor back in, but I couldn't get the thing to run when I was there. Maybe because I have a LEo Vinc. Exhaust. Will the bike run without the Cats? Anyway we couldn't really test it. I guess I could if I put the stock back on, but what good is that. Another question for the experts. Can I get a reading from IBeat without the Lamba inserted? Also my dealer had different software he was going to use that was more advanced from BMW. It had multiple options to do and he explained that the software was really good for the 311, considering they are so restricted out of the box. Anyone heard or used this? I'd rather get that software, but again what is the use if I have to put everything back on the bike every time to trouble shoot it. Anyway, I contacted Dave at JD and he said that he was willing to trouble shoot it and fix it for a fee if need be. So I mailed it out last week, let's see what happens. Hopefully he tells me it's no good, let's keep our fingers crossed. As always thanks for the help and knowledge. Tally-o P.S. I also reached out to Mikuni and spoke with a Chris to attempt to get a replacement Throttle Body Sensor. He said they built them as one piece and ship them afterwards. He referred me to Dean from Rand D racing who actually builds Throttle bodies. He stated that it was almost impossible to get these sensors from Mikuni. As far as other Carb companies no problems. Also Thumbs up to Chris, the owner of Husky Outlet. He was patient and got me the best price for a complete replacement just in case.
You don't need to return back to stock for ibeat.Bike doesn't need to be running.I couldn't find a dealer that knew much about ibeat even though they had it.Buy your own and never look back.
I will consider but is it still $300 from http://semcodesigns.com/Products.html or did you purchase from someplace else?
Never heard of this before but the 311 does use a Mikuni throttle body so might be true. Why didn't you let him hook it up and see? You can buy just the adaptor for $150 and get the software from somebody. _
Like already mentioned, you can use iBeat to pull error codes with oxygen sensor in or PU kit in, makes no difference. Exhaust system and cats has no effect on the bike starting or using iBeat. There is no reason why the dealer shouldn't have been able to pull codes and test the TPS. If you have the JD off the bike and it still won't run than that's not the problem. When it wouldn't run at the dealer was it cranking/not cranking? Was the fuel pump priming when you turn the key on? Something doesn't add up if the dealer wasn't asking/knowing all the above.... or I missed something You should fill in your location, maybe you're close to one of us .
Dyno, Thanks for the reply. I live on Long Island NY. Not sure how far away I am for others to help, but these replies are more helpful to me than you think. Anyway, just to fine tune what you're helping me with, I currently don't have a Lamba inserted. When I removed the JD I put all wiring back to the TPS like it was when I purchased it, but still had the power up kit installed. This is when it ran fine at home. This is why I now almost sure it's the JD rather than the TPS, which is great in my eyes. Anyway, when I trailered it to the dealer, they said that the bike needs to be running with the Lamba inserted, when testing in ibeat. I now tend to believe that they don't know what they are talking about. What i did, at their shop was remove the power up and I reinstalled the Lamba into my Leo pipe. This is when I couldn't get this thing to run for more than a few seconds before stalling. The idle was at 1250 which I believe is too low. I had it originally set for 1900. It wouldn't stay running even if we changed the idle setting. Remove the Lamba, put the Power Up back in she fires up again. Idles and runs great with no problems. Now that I realize from you guys that I can hook this up to Ibeat regardless of Mods or even running, than it's worth it. I hope this clears everything up, but thanks for sharing my frustrations.
By the way we did attempt to use the other software but he couldn't get the PC working correctly, entire other issue. These guys can build just about anything, but when it comes to PC stuff like this there completely lost, apparently. Next time I'm there I will get the name of it and share it with you guys. It's supposed to handle all Huskys, Italian and BMW with many better features
OK, that makes more sense. (except why the dealer told you the nonsense about the O2 sensor and don't have a working iBeat? What a waste of your time that was....) So right now your bike is running fine? If you have intentions of keeping this bike a long time, you're probably going to want your own iBeat. To be able to do your own diagnostics = priceless. It's very easy to use, would have shown any fault codes, and would have shown if your TPS was working correctly as you twist the throttle. In fact, you could probably adjust your fuel settings and not need the JD. .
Yes the bike runs fine, just missing that little extra MOD in the yellow zone, if you know what I mean. I have the JD being tested to make sure that this was the problem, I just wish that I could have seen the codes that day, so you definitely correct about owning my own software. The only reason why I haven't purchased it was because I was under the impression that the bike need to be running with stock requirements, but now I know this isn't true. I would hate to change back everything every time I have an issue. It's bad enough that I have to take off parts of the headers of the exhaust to drop the skid plate to do an oil change. Bad design from Leo, I think they were really designing it for the SM because they don’t have skid plates. Again thanks for everyone's help.
Unfortunately, that isn't the case for me. I have a skid plate that tucks into the frame right below the rear suspension, then allowing you lift it to attach it to the frame below the radiators with two bolts. What LEO did was drop one header pipe lower than the other ant the pipe it right in front of the skid plate. This makes it impossible to raise or lower the skid plate unless it's removed. What they should have done was run both header pipes parallel with each other and that would have allowed just enough room. They just weren’t thinking about skid plates, unless other plates attach differently. I also thought about drilling two holes in the bottom, but that leads to collecting debris and really sloppy oil changes. Basically in my opinion it was designed for a 630 that doesn’t need a skid Plate (SM), or the use of another skid? I'm not complaining about doing anything. The performance with it is remarkable, so it's well worth the hour oil change. Thanks for your thoughts.
Most skid plates have holes in the bottom for changing oil. If I bought a skidplate without them, I would drill them. No way am I removing my skidplate every time I need to do an oil change.
My Uptite skid plate removes with (4) 8mm head bolts, takes 30 seconds tops to remove it and maybe one minute to put it back on. Even with it off the TE is still hard to do a clean oil change. Two drains, one screen and oil filter. (Actually oil filter removal would be a bugger if not impossible with my skid plate on as it has full side coverage). Especially the drains are messy as have a tendency to spray and spit out oil. No way you could get them to drain straight down without your skid plate getting covered with oil and leaking out every which way. Not sure how you get the drain bolts out through those holes in the plate either with all that hot oil falling down on you. So so so much easier just to remove the plate and reinstall it later. Also each oil change is a good time to clean the skid plate foam and rocks and other debris trapped and collected by the skid plate. _
I rest my case. I just have the header to add to it, but again not complaining. The bike is better than a two stroke in my opinion.
All I am saying is that, if you don't like removing the skidplate to do an oil change, feel free to drill a hole in it. Every bike I've ever had has a hole in the skidplate for changing the oil, I wouldn't worry too much about adding one.
Thanks Kyle, but I'm not saying that I don't want to remove the skid plate or it's a hassle or I'm even complaining. I just merely mentioned that Leo should have raised one of the header pipes to accommodate skid plates. You shouldn't have to alter or drill a hole in anything to accommodate a poor, but not bad design. I'm sure they have their reasons for dropping it, maybe to cool it quicker? Anyway that wasn't the purpose of this thread. My problem was far more important than oil changes. Anyway, JD has returned my Power commander which needed to be repaired. They did this without any hassle what so ever. That company, as well as you guys, are pure professionals. Again I don't know how to thank you, i really appreciate it. I will reassemble the bike and give you all an update. Thank you so much again
I'm confused to what you mean by "(with their TPS)", which ARROW exhuast did you get? I have the Twin Carbon Arrows from Husky Special Parts Catalog and they came with the UPGRADED 'RACE' ECU, or is the ECU the same as TPS? Please forgive any percieved ignorance as i have rode and built/repaired 2 -Strokes for most my life...
