I'm not seeing anything like this on the clutch part diagram. Not sure where that came from, but it doesn't look related to the cup washers... There is one washer with 4 tabs and another one with 1 tab on the counter shaft part diagram. Maybe the drawing is wrong and it is the 4 tab washer is really a 3 tab one.
But the increase preload spring spreads to the cup wahers and the cup washer spreads it to?? It's kind of "suspicious" how often the shop manual, regarding to the oil drain magnetic plug, says "be sure to clean all the debris you find on it" as they were taking for granted the fact that the cups washers (and others pieces) are going to break, sooner or later IMO an important research that TE’s owners should make is to know how many engines have broken because of the cup washers. May be Husky engineers know about the cup washers breakages but they don’t think they can break the motor… and so they assume that these pieces only have to be changed from time to time
Appreciate your input. I don't know, though...I can be hard on manufacturers (in terms of them weighing incidence rate to overall numbers sold and deciding it's not worth their attention) but I think that in this case they probably didn't see this issue coming. I also can't help but think that owing to the great vigilance of owners here (and their warnings/pics) we've avoided some catastrophic failures...so hard to say how many would have wound up taking an engine out. Now I don't know where I'm getting this optimism- may just be in a good mood since it's Friday- as I'm one who lost an engine (sort of- the casing to the tune of 1500.00) because of a bad oil screen...but that's another story. Now on the manual and the statement "be sure to clean debris off the screen"... I don't think they knew- right out of the starting blocks- that the washers would fail and that this is what we're to look out for. Me- I think that sentence just means "clean off the usual crap you see on filters and drain plugs"- which is typically micro-shavings, manufacturing compounds/adhesive residue, etc.
That is the lock washer for the clutch basket nut. If it wasn't secured/tab bent over and failed the clutch nut can back off and lock up you motor. I had that happen to me on a XR 500 when I was a teenager. I was lucky that it just needed to be reassembled and nothing got damaged. This may very well be what happened to you. I do not know what that other bit is, but its most likely locatable in the clutch side of the case. The mechanic should pull the clutch assembly (if it wasn't undone by itself already) inspect for the cause of the loose bit and see if the engine/gears turns freely. I hope you get lucky on this one. I don't agree with your dealers take on the cup washers though.
In that case is a fault on instalation, nor a fault in upgrades cup washers neither in the design on the bike. That relax me
are all crazy to choose this engine ? http://www.advpulse.com/adv-bikes/production-version-of-new-ajp-pr7-600cc-dual-sport-unveiled/
Looks like failure to bend the tabs on the lock washer to me. Basket assembly came loose. What does the inside of the clutch cover look like? This is not the fault of the engine. I do believe the hardened cup washers (aftermarket) transfer the wear to the basket itself. Pretty sure someone had pics showing this. .
I uploaded a picture like that using Imageshack, so it's not available anymore. Here is it re-uploaded: This was taken after having used thicker cup washers which were not hardened, AFAIK. Anyhow, what if the engineers found the cause of that wear? Maybe the power delivey has been tamed, or the engine brake lessened. And what about other parts of the engine/transmission? Are you 100% positive that there isn't another new cushioning component?
I got my bike back from the dealer today after they fitted a second hand clutch unit they sourced from the US, having approx 2000kms use. The bike doesn't feel right at all, with bad vibrations that it's never had. It feels like something in the motor or drivetrain is out of balance. The vibrations through the bars are terrible and the bike feels almost unreadable at 80kmh in top gear, where as before it was silky smooth. I actually checked the tachometer, as it almost felt like it had been geared down on the front two teeth, but the revs are the same as it was before, so there has been no change to gearing. I have called the dealer, who will check the parts manual, but does anyone have an idea of what the problem could be?
Have a look on the stator side now. Good luck mate, been a while since we last chatted at Kulnurra. Loving my 630, and living in Bright is perfect for this bike
Thanks Glen, I wish I'd never gotten them to install the new cush washers, as it looks like when that was reassembled the locking tabs weren't bent in as required, causing the failure. Now this. Talk about disappointing - one minute I'm excited thinking all was good again & I'm right to ride, only for it to be vibrating like a paint shaker & seemingly making less power. As fantastic as the 630 has been (the most fun bike I've owned) I don't like unreliability/uncertainty, so will need to get a replacement shortly. I really wanted a 501 but everyone tells me it won't handle the mix of tar & dirt I do, so I'll probably relent & go the 701. That doesn't really excite me, as I think the 630 is every bit as good a bike, but it's 5 years old now with 28000kms, so it's best years are behind it. Good to hear you are enjoying your 630 and the terrific riding on offer around Bright. And it wasn't Kulnurra where we had a chat, it was Zig Zag as you were unloading your 310 for a day of tight riding, while I took the soft option headed out to Wolgan Valley and Capertee via Blackfellows Hand Track!
Thats right Russ it was Zig Zag, my bad. Maybe think about matters for a while, A full rebuild could be a good way out (plus a cush hub). I recently rode a KTM 690, awesome power, not very nice road manners (crap rear shock- I didn't depress it much and I am 110 kilos stripped), it really is a pure dirt bike, for that purpose a smaller smoker or 4 banger is a better proposition. The 630 does both road and trail with aplomb. My bike only has 1600kms on it. Every time I ride it I learn to appreciate its abilities more and more. Tomorrow I am going to Whitfiled about 85kms away. I will ride up my road for 10kms then go up the powerline track (Goldie Spur) to cross over the back of Mt Buffalo then down and over the Buffalo river, up and over the Mt. Buggery track and on gravel dirt road to Whitties for a cuppa. The mountain crossings are grade 2/3 stuff (did it in snow 2 weeks ago-not good on a tried 606 rear-new one on today) the gravel road is 100km stuff for 28 kms. As you can see it is a bit of everything and just what the 630 is penned to undertake. The 630 is a better all rounder than the 690 imho. Maybe the new 710 will be a better all rounder. The asking price for the new 701 will be circa $17K on the road. The 501 is about $15.5K and really is not a dually at all. Keep smiling and maybe catch up soon in gods own country. Glenn
If thy had the gears off of the crank end on the clutch side they could have put it back together out of balance. If that checks out OK then maybe the clutch shaft got bent when it came apart before. I bet it's the c/b shaft out of alignment. I would be so scared to take my bike back to the dealer that caused the problem in the first place, forgetting to bend the clutch nut lock washer. I would have to open it up and check their work.
Thanks for the feedback gents, much appreciated. I fear this is one of those things that me difficult and expensive to diagnose. It was so disheartening riding home yesterday thinking it'd all been fixed, then realizing the normally powerful and smooth motor was performing like a paint shaker.
If the dealer forgot to bend the washer I suppose is his responsibility. I mean, he should repair your bike free of charge. May be there is a bit of paranoia about the reliability of ours TE630??. When I bought a Cagiva T4350E, 26 years ago, rumors said that is was not a reliable bike. I sold it with approx. 85.000 km and I had not big issues with it. Only the electric starter motor, that I had to clean it from time to time due somehow some oil came into it. That’s all. Why cannot make TE630 also 85.000km? As far as I know, the bike has been made in the same factory and probably by the same engineers team…
Quick update: I picked up a new 701 three weeks ago (different dealer) as the 630 is still suffering the vibration woes. Left the 630 with them while I covered the 1000km break in period on the 701. They disassembled then reassembled the clutch & told me the bike was right to go. But I picked if up today and the bad vibrations are still there. The engine is fine in terms of making power, as is clutch & gears but something is slightly out of balance. The bike can be ridden but it is very rough & can't rev as quickly or far. So the problem is as yet undiagnosed by the mechanic. Bob, would you mind clarifying what you mean by balancer so that I can get the dealer to look there. Sick baby on way out & new one in:
The vibrations you report sound exactly the same as when the woodruff key on counterbalance lets go/breaks.
This is a video I recorded some years ago: That's my 610 engine. The balancer shaft is that shaft which spins with the crankshaft, very close to it. If one of its keys or the right side key of the crankshaft break, the two shafts will not be timed anymore and so the bike will vibrate very much. If it's the key of the crank, the bike will also lose power (and probably engine brake). It happened to me.
