Ya, I am confident if I leave it with the solenoid intact I will not have any problems. HF removed his solenoid and the bike runs fine now, but a little time will tell for sure. I am just worried that a code will pop if there is no solenoid and the ECM tells it to purge, so I left it in and connected. I do not have a low lean condition on my bike, so there is really not too much of a concern to remove it anyway....but I would still like to know how it turns out for HF after some time. Thanks for the thread on the subject Wadejesu. With a few bikes having heating issues, this is a welcome mod. Like you said before, that radiator will now get the much needed air flow. If someone is uncomfortable removing the canister, they should at least relocate it.
I just posted my "How To" article over here: Cannisterectomy Do you think the electrical plug to the Purge Valve is connected to the radiator fan? Did you trace it out and confirm the link? If so, short across the thermostat to make your fan run continuous....then unplug the electrical purge valve contact to verify what happens. I'm guessing no relation. Though I wouldn't put it past some disturbed "planner" to use it as a dastardly penalty. If it did cut the power to the fan, then simply snip the purge valve electrical line and short them together. Let us know....as your bike is apart, mine already has her clothes back on. In meantime, I'll go start my bike and let it idle till the fan comes on or the whole thing melts into a pool of molten on the garage floor. ***Edit*** if the ECU throws a code I'll let you know. Never did on my F800GS which is far more sophisticated. Fuel adjustments are based on the MAP and the O2 sensors. I don't think it will affect any lean/rich issues as long as the vac-port is "plugged" closed. HF
p.s. if you leave your vac line connected to the purge valve, then it will be sucking unfiltered air into your intake, with the canister removed. Bad deal...
A hot motor would burn vapor better than a cold one and the fan coming on would insure this action. I already put my cloths back on, so I cannot trace and confirm the link. I am sure someone will strip theirs soon enough....I might even do it again after the weekend just to see. I understand about the "disturbed planner"...just look where they mounted the canister in the first place!
I had a one way valve laying around, so I put it on the hose for now so it can not pull vacuum. When you report back with no issues, I will pull the rest of the system and plug the intake port. Oh ya, I have yet to find a quality vacuum plug that would last over a year or so. Maybe throw an extra in your tool kit HF. It is just my experience.
Two hours riding yesterday afternoon.....runs like a champ! I'm quite sure now, that my low speed throttle input is smoother off bottom. It just feels normal, where it had a slight hesitation before. Also noticeable when hammering the throttle hard on from idle. Nor more delay or stumble to catch up. These were minor things before, but are smoothed out now. Remember....I'm real picky. Following your line of thinking, I guess the electric connection to the purge valve could be a feed from the Thermostat. Maybe it prevents the vacuum valve from opening until engine reaches normal operating temperature. Though, the net effect of the difference in time, would seem rather insignificant. Any air drawn over the coal-bed is likely to work about the same, all things considered. Hydrocarbons use the "buddy system" to travel. They bond to oxygen. Water...well, that's another matter. Fill your canister with water and see how that works out... HF
the solonoind should just be a vent solonoind similar to on a cars evap system. when it gets a signal from the computer it open allowing the canister to vent into the intake most likely at the throtle body where hf blocked it off. just put a little di-eletric grease in the connecter at the contacts and tape it up.
It seems all good now that HF has had no issues and no engine light (thanks for the report HF). My main concern with pulling the solenoid was the engine light. If you disable the EVAP solenoid on your car or if it fails you will pop a code and your engine light will remain on. Example, OBD code P1451. This is a cool little read, but it also states you will most likely not notice any drivability issues. http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/ford/p1451.php I know the TR doesn't run on an OBD 2 system, but I just had that one little fear and not any more...that little solenoid is going away ASAP!
I just performed the Cannisterectomy!, Also while i was performing surgery i removed the the baffles, i sawed it right above where it is welded to the end cap, that way i can mig it back on if i want, reinstalled the end cap and snap rings. It does not run any worse than it already did,(I still do not have the Moss flash) If anything it is more responsive to quick blips of the throttle, not really much louder.
Yes, every ounce helps! I did not weigh the parts removed, but the bike runs better i put 150 miles on it today and it never died once.My county does not have a auto or mc emissions inspection. Move out of the Nanny state and live free!, just joking Coffee, I love CA but I could not live by those insane gun laws and other rules!.....But I would love to see the redwoods and other points of interest.. 81 miles= 1.2 gallons of fuel! Lick creek, Hickman county, TN is where photos were taken .By the way the land right across the creek from the photo is for sale. I think around 125 acres,There are also several vineyards in the area, not to mention the Jack Daniels Distillery, which is near Nashville, TN. rural land goes for around $3500 per acre or less. That photo was taken 12 miles from I- 840 which connects to I-40 , and I 24, and I- 65. Also there is a place called Honda Hills that was popular during the 70's,They had a web site, but i don't know if it is still up? It was a phosphate mine area that was taken over during the 70's and 80's by motorcycles and dune buggys they recently were re-open to the public for a fee, but I did not have time to go there today. Back in the day it was called the mines by the local riders, I think it is also for sale, back in the day it was several hundred acres, now what is for sale is only about 75 acres. the current owner tried a motorcross track for youths, but i don't think it worked out.
haha, all of that sounds cool but its like trying to understand my accountant with my taxes, this is all way over my head... I am willing to do anything to get the bike running a bit better. If anyone has a little time to explain how to complete this process for a three year old it would be much appreciated. also what parts do I need to order before I attempt the Canisterectomy lol
Not sure if you want a "why" or a "how" but here is the "how" in an incredibly well done tutorial post, by our own HighFive: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=20579601&postcount=199
Perfect, thanks blaine.hale... I have to learn to read the whole thread... switching between screens at work cuts the attention span... I am addicted though
So, on the vent line that runs from the case to the airbox, there's another nipple right next to it without a hose on it. I stuck a pick tool into the hole on said nipple, and appears to go right into the airbox, almost like it's another "airbox vacuum source". Since I broke my nipple where the crankcase vent line attaches, it appears I can just use this other nipple? Have a look here. The nipple I broke is right in front of the airbox drain in this pic. Whether you've managed to break the nipple or not, it appears that there's a source for unfiltered air to enter the airbox. I'll put some air pressure to the second nipple tonight to confirm.
Haha, wow ! I never cease to me amazed at the knowledge some of you guys have. This never would have crossed my mind.
I believe those two vent ports are on the "filtered" side. Neither one appears to be routing unfiltered air into the engine. I would have to get inside the air box to confirm absolutely. But logic and their location relative to the air filter seems to indicate its being filtered. HF
Negative.....it was not. I did just install the Wuka King Powercontroller (from Hightechcoonass) very recently. It fixed the rough idling and lean stalling issues immediately. I will not bother with a MOSS update now. The motor is running near perfect! However, this is totally unrelated to the Cannisterectomy. I rode for 6 months following the surgery, and never experienced one single tiny bit of performance change related to my EVAP system being on versus off the bike. HF
