Removed my evap can and have noticed better performance. When I am leaving a stop light the bike does not sputter and spit like it did before the mod. Also, it frees up some space close to the radiator (better for cooling). I highly recommend this.
I happened to notice last night that the crankcase hose goes to the evap canister. If the evap canister draws vacuum would it now draw vacuum on the crank case? The reason I ask is drag racers for years for put a vacuum pump on their cars to put a vacuum on the crankcase to free up horsepower. What is every one doing about that hose?
High Five ran his vent line to a low position and I wonder if there is any chance of pulling water into the tank when making a deep water crossing. Fab explained to me where he ran his line as I recall, but darned if I can remember right now. Is this something to just not worry about? My canister and valve are going to be history soon. Fab and I had similar heating problems when riding this summer, so not sure how much all this really helps, but it must do SOME good. I made a half day ride in the mountains yesterday and even though we got up to the cool at 9000 feet the fan was working hard.
Perhaps they're using the cannister and it's associated vacuum as some form of positive crankcase ventilation system. I'd stick a filter on the hose and zip tie it up under the airbox.
I wonder if you could do a one way valve to keep the crank case vacuum. Seems like the vacuum would help a little. Although if it was one way I wonder if it would suck oil into to the throttle body? I would like to do the canister delete because I see the benefit of not having the hesitant low end throttle and stall from time to time.
Huh? There are no hoses that connect the crankcase to the canister. The crankcase hose on the right side of the engine should be going to the airbox. The canister hoses are as follows: hose from fuel tank to canister, from canister to valve, from valve to throttle body. There is 1 additional hose from the bottom of the canister that does not connect to anything and should be shoved in front of the engine near the starter.
Ok sorry for the confusion I was changing my oil at 11pm last night and then read this article and got confused with the lines then. Thank you for the clarity.
Just did the canister removal and taking off the plastics was more time consuming than any thing else. Thanks for all the great info!
Did the removal today. Everything went well and the hiccup in the throttle is completely gone. I could not even get it to mis when I tried. Really happy that I got rid of that can because it seemed to be having a negative impact on the bike. Pretty much followed HighFives writeup. I shoved a tire plug in the end of the hose that goes to the throttle body - and then put a vacuum cap on top of that. I feel like it could implode a bit because of the vacuum and still leak with just the cap. Also installed a Ricochet skid plate and very happy with it so far.
I guess it could be some from the cooler weather...but my TR seems to run a bar or two cooler without the big beer can looking nonsense behind the radiator...anyone else notice this?
X2? Still trying to wrap my head round the hot running/overheat on these bikes. Is it a two fold problem, i.e faulty thermostats as i have read somewhere disclosed by the factory? Or the extremely lean running condition, or possibly both? Be interested to know has anyone had a thermostat replaced and noticed an improvement in operating temp? Or and also a BP or Wuka and wether they experience cooler operating temps. Especially registered around the header pipe. I did a 400 miler on sat temps in the high 90's and my textile pants had a pretty massive hole just below the left knee by the time i got home.
I did the Canisterectomy last night and wasn't too bad. I'd pulled off plastic once before so it was a slight stretch past those skills to add loosening the radiator and futzing around with two hose lines. It also let me look for closely at fabbing up my own radiator protector without interfering with a very close fitting Terra fender. Several additional notes I'd add to the process is that I *think* the vacuum plug you want is the next size up from 5/16". I used a 3/8" plug from a $6 box I bought from my local mega type auto parts store (our region calls them O'Reillys these days). I opted to put a small inline filter in the Fuel Tank Vent Line and did my best to eyeball where to cut the hose. It fit nicely in the little spot below the tank area and down south towards the front sprocket. However, putting the seat back on I found that one of the bracket lips that mates with the motorcycle body interferes a bit and makes putting the seat back on a bit more tricky. I may have to invest in a new 2 foot section of hose and reposition the filter...a minor issue. A quick ride around the block and morning cruise to work and I didn't really notice any change in much.....other than the bike now being a rocket because of the dramatic weight loss. Not really. I weighed the canister and hardware and came up with 15 ounces of stuff....so a very small diet for our cruiserweight bikes. The main reason I did this is the bike is forming a dead spot at about 3500 RPM under constant light street cruising load...it didn't change that. I'll probably be posting elsewhere on it in the near future....I think it's another issue...possibly a TPS going flaky. Thanks HighFive for the well done procedure and pictures....it made for a productive Tuesday evening in the garage.
This is interesting to hear from another rider. I too have a "dead spot" slightly north of 3k after removing the canister, having it mossed and installing the Wuka. After each update or mod performed it seemed that the dead spot would decrease or almost disappear but then return. It seems to be back for good now and I'm just learning to live with it.
Not to clutter or confuse this excellent Evap Can thread, I started a more appropriate thread here on the issue.
Did the canister removal today ... Didn't have to remove anything or loosen the radiator .. I did it all with bike intact.... I then put my modded temp sensor in so I took the left pannel off while off I put a vacuum plug on the brass vent elbow in the throttle body.... If you cap the hose on the other side and leave that s shaped hose attached to the throttle body you shouldn't have to remove any body panels ....
Thanks HighFive for the great write up on ADV. I followed that pretty much to the letter, and after a short back and forth to the Chiro I noticed a few things. 1. Throttle is more responsive and seems less likely to stall when taking off from a stop. 2. While the idle is smoother, but seems to have a mind of its own when I roll of the throttle. For example, I come to a stop and close the throttle, but the the engline takes a bit longer to idle down. Weird. 3. Check engine light is on. Thoughts on how to clear that? 4. The dead spot around 3000-3500 is more pronounced, mainly when rolling of the throttle. Maybe this will get better with time? Not sure how to fix this. The only other mods I have done have been a skid plate and heated grips.
I'm going to be moving back to the US in a couple years and I'm planing to bring my Terra that I bought in the UK. Anyone know if I will need one of these cans to pass emissions to get a US title?
