TE/TC Finally got to ride a '17 TE150!

I am interested in how this bike runs down low in tight conditions. Can it chug and not stall? If you have ridden a recent te 250/300 is it 50%, 75% as tractable? Or are you always on the clutch? looking to pull the trigger soon but the price difference between the 150 and 250 is so little that I am on the fence.

I'll have a more complete ride report after this weekend, but what little I have ridden it, pretty tractable to me. I'm probably not the guy to give you the comparison though.... I've been riding '15 TE125/150 and '16 200XC-W, so I ride instinctually with my finger on the clutch modulating power. My '12 Husaberg TE250 was my last 250 2T. I figured a new TE250 is going to be lighter than old model, but will weigh about the same as my '16 200XC-W did.... still too heavy for me. New TE150 is 16 lbs lighter than my 200XC-W!

My '17 was also greased well everywhere. Pulled it apart and ended up putting it all back together as is and will be re-packing everything later this fall to get ready for going south to ride this winter.

It's a crap shoot for sure. My last two bikes.... '15 TE125 was well greased and not by dealer; '16 200XC-W was very minimal, but had grease. This bike.... you could feel it, but barely anything!

Fresh Kenda Washougals mounted and ready. Still running a 110/100-18 rear, but it's not as big as the OEM Dunlop AT-81 in the same size. Looks like a better fit on the 150.

Looks great Norm!

Is that the Bike shed or the shed of bikes? Eye see a Husky peeking out in background!

Walt! Looks like snow up your way! Burrrrrr!

Tomorrow going practice riding. Doc says a ok, as long as wear knee brace.

There's 5 little Huskys all in a row there.... '15 TE125/150, '74 125WR(So little and short, it's hard to see.) '82 250WR, '93 350WXC and '03 TE610E.

I rode about twenty miles woods and grass track today. I swapped on a 51T rear and bike works better in tight woods and hill climbs. I did a top speed run and it didn't really hurt the top end at all. Kenda tires working better than OEM Dunlops.

I'm still running the stock TMX at this point and it has some jetting issues, but fuel consumption isn't too bad.... 45 miles of mostly hard riding and there is still quite a bit of fuel in the tank. I know my '09 WR125 had a smaller stock tank, but I wouldn't count on 20 MPG with that TMX. Warm and humid, so 2 turns out on the AS. I need to finish this break in fuel and get my standard fuel mix in it.

Overall, this is the bike of my dreams.... light, nimble, excellent handling, enough power for my riding and the button!

Next up... Carb off and inspect reed block.

Norm I know it's more cash but cash well spent on bullet proofing just order the new reed assy. Tassinari or Boyesen, personally I like the V force because it is the same construction as OEM supplier type, just of a higher build quality.
And don't discount using the torque wingy thingy as a good carbby mod. and of course work the jetting with the Mikuni parts or JD and definitely check and adjust the float level.
PS the manual is really good for carb settings and I was quite happy with the setup listed in the temp altitude box called out for where I ride. But went with the JD set up and am super happy 60:1 with good synth and premium or race gas. and use an NGK IX iridium plug.

I have a Lectron, I'm going to send to them for correct rod and any updates. In the meanwhile... I found the Power Now carb divider from my TMX 38 on my '09 WR125 and dropped that in this morning. A short ride and it felt like it made an improvement.

D4 Sprint Enduro tomorrow, to finish the break in!

The bike was lowered 1.5" and revalved by WER. Drew has some good settings for the Xplorer fork and the WP linkage shock. I rode the bike on a race loop with guys faster than me and it worked well with me pushing beyond my comfort zone. I'm very pleased so far. I have a Sprint Enduro tomorrow and will have a further report.

Norm, I have last year’s TE150 and was less than impressed with the Mikuni and bought a Lectron from Slavens. It was an improvement over stock but down low it did not run very clean or crisp in engine power and sound, up high where the engine likes to run the Lectron is a great carb. Now I’m trying a 38mm Keihin, similar to the carb on older KTM’s. I only have a few days working on it but already it’s far better than stock or the Lectron. I know that Darin has had good results working on the Mikuni and I’m hoping to get the Keihin running like his.

On my '17 150 im running following :

4373 needle clip # - this is a richer profile over the stock 74 series and used in the 125 range.

S4 / 37.5 pilot & 500 main.

I'm using a slide with a 5.75 cutaway over the richer stock 5.0. Having good results

* clip # 2

Hey Norm, do you have settings for the stock suspension you could share, I just set mine at sport and found my stock settings weren't quite correct from the factory. I never touched a clicker on this bike, just the rear sag in which I had to turn in all the ways to the last thread. I'm 165 without fear, probably go to next stiffer springs this winter.

My suspension isn't stock anymore, so couldn't say. I never checked the stock settings, as I knew I'd get it revalved and lowered in a week. I'm 180 without gear and we checked sag with me geared up before and after lowering it and static and race sag was good, so Drew said stay with stock spring. He felt that with the new frame and linkage that the stock rear spring rate is good for heavier riders and what would have been the typical 140-150 lbs target rider would have to go down a spring rate. We went up on the fork spring rate though.

Need more info on this bike.....engine brakes etc....

Fletch like a bass waiting to strike when the correct bait swims by.......hahahaa dude you will rail on a TE150

Ha.. .I'm only three hours of my 11 hour drive away from halls....looking at tc 125 250 and te 250 and tx 300 and of course the little train that could...te 150...motel and beers I'll decide in the morning...