125-200cc First ride 09 WR 125 and the bog

Okay,

I go home last night and changed out the rear shock spring. I took my pipe off and adjusted the power valve bolt close to the top, like in the pic. I took her out for a spin and about 90% of the bog is gone. I am not sure what they put in it to jet it from Hall's. I did notice a slight bog now when the bike warms up. So what would this be? Try raising or lowering clip? I raised the clip one notch after the first tank of fuel.

Typpyt

guys- stop screwing with the needle. you are going to burn up your motor.

put the neeedle back in the #3 spot and go UP on the main. the needle should never be past #4. once you set your carb up you should only have to make MJ changes for extreme elevation/track changes, along with a minor tweak of the AS- if even nec.

again- rule of thumb:

hard bog = lean

this is a 125. it needs a LOT of fuel to go. go rich before going lean. it's safer. make sure the bike is fully warmed up. read the plug. never make motor changes untill you have a baseline setting. change one thing at a time till its right or you will be chasing your tail. if you do not have a basic understanding of how a carb works this will be frustrating and/or expensive. please be careful and methodic. address one circuit at a time on a stock motor.

start with a 4.0 slide, thinnest of the two needles #3 slot, 32.5 PJ, 470/480 main, AS 1.5 out.

http://www.cafehusky.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8039

Yes..thou only make one change at a time


I usually tackle jetting starting with pilot screw......whichever one it takes to keep the screw at no more than 1 1/2 turns.....for me that was a 30 ( I take the 32.5 with me just in case) After that which one makes it pull clean to the top...which was a 450 for me
to get the best out of the middle(the last step in my procedure..needle selection) I ended up with the needle in the middle clip pos.....

I have to say I am happy with mine...its not perfect all the time...but reasonably good

He's right... I put 50$ in aftermarket screws and jets into mine and thought I had it...(even though it's still too rich) first time I went up in Altitude it turned into a pig... saving my pennies for the PWK...

Looks like joining the "Cult of Keihin"(Norms phrase) is catching on...


Hey Kelly have you got these kits together yet...if so how much roughly??

I'm thinking the smaller 36mm..might give better response....but a 38mm is better for the wide open riding I do.....

With the Mukini I never get the dreaded stuck float. My Ktm's with Keihin kept having this problem and I don't miss it one bit.

I'll just tough it out with the stocker and jet it silly rich. You must first finish to finish first

PVDuke.. gonna be a while till I can afford my PWK gonna crack into my tmx.. when you say 3rd slot.. are you counting from the bottom ring of the needle ? which would richen it ? or if from the top would lean it ?

I have a friend that still owns a ktm200 and he just changed the bowl on it. Tapped it so much over the years it started leaking

Never had this issue with Huskys.

Make sure to report back with your thoughts. I am right behind you with the PWK.

JS

Do you recommend the 36 or 38 for the WR125?

thanks
JS

Now go figure, I have a 460 main or possibly 450 (Can't see the number good). 45P and move the clip down to 3rd. I also adjusted the powervalve so bolt is close to top. Run 40:1 mix. I had just a slight bog. I decided to back out the air screw another 1/2 turn and runs perfect (probably till gets warmer out). You guys have been a big help! I mean that! I agree and will get the PWK from Kelly as soon as I get my suspenders done. So what is going to be the recommended carb? 36/38? As soon as I need a tear down, I will go 144 kit.

Typpyt