All 2st Full Power Jet Kit

I got it today. Got home from work and there was a little box by the door with Raymond Devlin's name on it from Hall's Cycles. It's the full power jetting kit that I've had my name on the list for since back in March,...Husqvarna part #8000H1014,...for the WR300.

Here's what's in it:

Needle #6GAY69-74 (is that an unfortunate needle number, or what?)

3 main jets; a 420, a 430, and a 440

and 3 pilots; a 40, a 45, and a 50.

It's kinda like a JD Jetting Kit, only with absolutely no instructions.

I have the bike jetted as follows:
Stock 6BFY43-74 in the 2nd clip notch from the top,
stock 460 main, 30 pilot (35 was stock), and the air screw
is 2 1/4 turns out from the seat. The slide and everything
else is stock.
I took the bike down to WV's Hatfield/McCoy trail systems weekend before last, and it ran just great. Still had just a slight burble at the very first crack open of the throttle,...but the last 1/4 turn on the air screw seemed to clean that up. The ceramic insulator in the plug is a dark chocolate all except right up at the tip where it's rather blackish, and there was just enough spooge to put my mind at ease. Not any major copious droolage,...just a very slight salivating at the rim.
I was running an oiled PC Racing filter skin over my air filter, 40:1 Amsoil Dominator and 93 octane Shell V-Power, and it was in the low 90s and so stinkin' humid we were gasping at rest breaks.
Truth is I sorta like my bikes to be just a tad rich in those conditions, as that gives me a little slack for them to lean out a bit as the temps drop in the fall without having to rejet,...and I hang it up when it gets downright cold anyways,...I just can't take that crap anymore.

Anyways, I thought the bike ran good,...I was perfectly happy with the motor. The forks beat me to death, but that's for another thread.
So I'm all excited about getting this full power kit, but not sure what to do with it. There are no papers with it at all. Is it possible that there's more snarl and grunt in that motor that's waiting to be unleashed,...or should I leave well enough alone. It seems to be at least as stout as my KTM 300 everywhere except maybe down at the very bottom. One time in 3 whole days, I was lugging up a pretty steep hill climb in 3rd and had to grab 2nd,...but I was probably pushing it, and it may have been the same deal on the KTM as well.

Is there any literature out there on utilizing the full power jet kit? I'm assuming this new needle is leaner than stock,...due to the much fatter pilots in the kit,...right?
And the mains are all leaner than stock. I don't go leaner on the main jet unless the bike burbles at WOT,...and mine doesn't.

If there are any Mikuni gurus who know of any voodoo that can be performed with this kit, I'm all ears. Otherwise I'm just gonna hold onto it and await further instructions.

How much was the kit?
My 300 was a pig at WOT, so bad I checked for a rag in the airbox
I was planning on trying a 440, but the honda shop only had a
knock off brand in that size, a used 430, and a new genuine 420.
So I tried the 420 and it was too lean, needless to say I went back for the used 430.
Now it rips at WOT.
I'm not happy with the stock needle, guess Ill have to try the "GAY" one now there's a quote for someone.
I sure hope that needle works, not that I need more power, but because I know it should be running better.

Is there more grunt left in the motor, take a squish measurement and you will see the head is doing nothing to help make power.

The kit is $50.75 Flyin.

My bike wasn't way off stone stock. In fact it was fine when I first brought it home back in the early spring when the temps were cooler. But later on when it started getting up in the 80s, it started to develop a rich blubber down in the pilot circuit just off idle that I couldn't clear up with just the air screw. Krieg put me onto his guy, Gerald Jones at Upstate Cycle in SC, and he sent me a 30 pilot and told me to raise my clip one notch. It's been good ever since. So far it's always screamed like a scalded cat at WOT on the stock 460 main jet,...it was just when rolling back on the gas from closed throttle in the tight stuff that it would sputter and have to hock out a fur ball.

This new "GAY" needle feels like a triple taper. If you slide it between your fingers you can feel two distinct changes in it. It may turn out to be the hot set-up in this TMX,...but it obviously changes the stock jetting quite a bit because you get 3 pilots all richer than stock, and 3 mains all leaner. If it had come with some kind of a guideline sheet detailing what pilot to run with what clip position,...at various temps and altitudes,...ect., like James Dean includes in a JD Jetting kit,...I'd probably try it. But I don't enjoy cracking my carb open and experimenting well enough to just start dumbing around blindly without even so much as a baseline setting to start from,....especially when the bike runs good as it is.

I'd say we all could use a professional squish band clearance job, but I'm not pulling my head off 'til I need to do a top end job.

Those are some fat pilot jets!
Mine seems to like the stock 35 in the warmer temps. Anything below that and I need to bump it up or it'll get the 'too-lean surge' at idle.

I'm running a 450 main now and it rips pretty good up top, but I think I could safely drop to a 440. That 420 main must be for folks riding in the Alps!


Try replacing only the needle using the same clip position and see how it feels. It wont be enough of a change to harm anything, but you'll get an idea of how that new needle effects things if its the only thing you change. I'm real curious as to how it makes it run. The stock needle in the 2nd clip is real close to making my bike ping if I hold it around 1/4 - 3/8 throttle. A triple taper needle might be the ticket.

Unless your gurgling at WOT, I wouldn't touch the main. I went to a 450 for one ride and it seemed too lean. I'm back to the 460, stock needle with the clip up one notch (one step leaner), a 32.5 pilot and 2 1/4 turns on the screw. I'm happy with these at up to 90 degrees F and 500-1000 ft.

Agreed 100%. See,...our bikes are carbureting nearly identical. The only difference between our two settings is that you have that 32.5 pilot, and I had already stuck Gerald's 30 in there before I even knew there was a 32.5.

But I'm most definitely not lean,...anywhere. Now, why does PC's bike seem to want to carburet leaner than ours? Isn't Oregon higher than around here? That should make it richer,...not leaner.
All except that main jet deal,...He likes a slightly leaner main than us,...which seems really inconsistent with the rest of the comparison to me.

At any rate, it's running too good for me to want to screw around with it anyhow. If I need to work on anything it's my forks,...they're beating the crap outta me!

Beaverton's elevation is about 189. So it shouldn't be drastically different than what we're running. We're both around 500 ft. When I ran the 450 main, the bike did scream at WOT, but the plug got a bit to the white side after a full day's worth of riding so I went back to the 460. The biggest difference in overall performance for my 300 was going a notch leaner with the needle. It cleaned things up nicely. The smaller pilot was just a fine-tuning thing that got rid of a very small amount of off-idle congestion. As for my Zokes, I can't remember the exact number of clicks, but I've got the compression about 3/4 of the way out and rebound about 1/2 to 2/3 out. I'm 5' 10", 190 and that seems to be the sweet spot for my style of old-fat-man woods and fire roads riding.

Okay, thanks. I called Drew Smith the other day about my "Zokes",...(turns out I've been mispronouncing Marzocchi )...Drew told me to make sure my bottom triple clamp wasn't too tight and binding the bushing inside the uppers. Failing that, I may need a re-spring and re-valve job. I'll play with the clickers some more and try to duplicate your settings. I'm only two clicks softer than standard on compression, so I've got a ways to go yet on that.

And BTW if 5' 10" and 190 is fat,...then I'm an old fat guy too!

One-size-fits-all carbs huh?....well isn't that conveeeenient!
-Church Lady-

Hey Kelly, are you anywhere near Mt. Rainier?
I ask because I just saw on the National Geographic Channel the other day where that's supposed to be the #1 most dangerous volcanic mountain on the continent! The big danger was from something called "Lahars",...it's like a flow of wet concrete or something.

Yes, I have a "technical Information" for the right Jetting from the german Importer.

430 Main
6GAY6974 Needle
3.Clip from top
45 Pilot
#4 Slider

This Information comes without any height or temprature limitations.

Thank you!
I'm having a hard time tracking down one of those needles, but I have the rest. Are these Husky specific needles or can any dealer that sells Mikuni get them?

Strange that they call for a 45 pilot when a 35 pilot is stock (at least here in the US).

I'm not a Mikuni guru, but I did stay in a Holiday Inn express, once.

Actually I hate them, but from my Honda days with the Mik, I'm thinking that jet has a much larger diameter and taper that flows more fuel at WOT. That explains why the pilot is larger and the main is smaller.

Sometimes 125's require larger jets than 250's, jet simply because there's less vacuum / flow in the venturi, so the jet "signal" is weaker. And even though it may require less fuel, a 125 might still need a bigger jet because that "signal" causes it to pull less fuel though that same jet size than a 250 can.

Ditto on the 300, too.

I don´t know! But I don´t think they build special stuff for such a small manufacturer.
The InformationSheet does not come with the german owners manuel.
It´s an advise-form for the dealership mechanics who build up the bike out of the box.

I rode "her" on Saturday for 55km (Singletrails) and I had to switch to reserve.
The bike get´s smoother in the bottom with this jetting, but will also become very thirsty.

Thanks for the info!
Hard to believe it can be even smoother than it is stock.

Does it affect power at other throttle positions? Was the kit worth it?




Rusty,
did your kit come with the slide? I gave a local dealer that part number number (#8000H1014) and he said his cost was $170. Either he input the number incorrectly or slides are very expensive!

My bike came stock with the low emission exhaust an special greenpeace jetting.
But the RaceJettingKit was in the box as standard equiptment.

No PC, my kit was in a little plastic baggie with a Husqvarna parts sticker on it with the P/N 8000H1014 printed clearly on it in bold black.
In the bag was the new needle, 3 mains, and 3 pilots,...and they had billed my Visa card $50.75 for it,....No slide. Got it from Hall's.
I've never installed any of it. At some point during the 4 months it took to get it I simply copy-catted Kriegs jetting, and have been happy with that ever since.

That sounds logical r. Thank you!
And thanks for the info Rusty!