TE/TC Go Fat or go home

I've had a front mousse before that I liked a lot. Yet to run a rear mousse. It did feel a little sketchy on a motocross track. Might have been because the mousse was used.

Uh... I think we have them in stock, call us.

Yes I understand the difficulty in mounting! I really like them and seriously can't feel any difference then a tube feels like. What ever happened to those tire balls??????

Some riders still use them..

dudes really get serious I did both my wheels and tires in under an hour, removed and completly back on, watch some isde or enduro comp viddys the pros do them in both in under 12 mins including air filter change. use the proper tools and get on with it. pumping in lube? i cant imagine that would be effective, you just pop the tire off and relube the mousse and inside the tire .

if you fuck around with small standard tire irons and dont have hoop type tire/mousses machine it will be a ball breaker correct tools and technique its a cake walk and fast...just jam the thing back together no worries about pinching a tube. You just get a little active and do it.

Uh... I might have big tire irons..

Mousses are expensive, but required for serious racing, or if you're tired of getting front flats like me.

Looks doable...


View: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mnhg-VEP69U&feature=player_embedded

Hes not slow for a first timer!!!

But no lube?

That's a small mousse like the one in the TMT videos.

I've got their other product, "Underwear Balls." You don't have to use lube, but in some circumstances it may be helpful.

So is weight of any consideration in this discussion of what is in your tires? Acceleration/deceleration, handling, etc... For woods and tight trail riding or technical riding I would want light for quick response. We can load up the wheels and make them bomb proof but a bucket of grease and a relatively solid butyl noodle would seem heavy. Obviously this is just discussion... But seems many of you are big guys (200+), and barreling along the desert you probably could flat most anything just hitting anything gingerly. Lighter riders (155-165)in the woods.... Weight in the wheels could be a penalty. Yes a flat is a flat and we all know that but anyone have second thoughts regarding weight/performance. In the old days we had solid tires and we are heading back that way with run flats, etc... Honeycomb for certain military applications as seen on some Polaris rigs. http://www.polaris.com/en-us/military/combat/sportsman-mv-850-le. Weight is always part of the equation with wheels and tires and tubeless addresses that aspect except that they too may not really diminish weight at all I use a good tape on mtb wheels to seal the spoke holes and then a sealant, Stans, which makes an overall light package. It dries out in time. I figure the Tubeliss came about due to burping of air at the bead and needing a rim locking technique better than just a single point lock but they require a tube and a thick bicycle tire within a tire so not the lightest solution either. Even with Stans, maintenance is a chore (just seating/sealing the beads on changes/replenishing is a bitch at times) so many just revert to tubes in the end for recreation and occasional races.

It's more a consideration of $. Ty weights in at a buck fifty, races woods/just about everywhere on earth. Always runs a mousse. I would rather run them than my heavy tube/slime combos, but cannot afford them, especially with my three sets of wheels I run. If you don't race, I'd look at other options.

Good point. If you don't race. Proper rim locks and a heavy duty tube. And run the maximum air pressure you can without sacrificing to much of your handling (traction) I run 11 in the back and 13 up front. If super rockey I'll go 12 in the rear and 14 up front. Also you can carry large zip ties with you.if you do get a flat. Wrap around the rim and tire in several places will help you get to the next reset and keep moving if your in it for points or do not have tools to do a trail change. I also used to run around the rubber strip that cover s the spokes with duct tape quite a few times because in my mind at least this could reduce the chance of a flat caused by a spoke. Flats are rare but sure can spoil the day..... a small bicycle pump can be carried pretty easy if needed like if your deep in moab or the black hills. For racing peace of mind means a lot to me and I know I can hit a square edged rock at high speed if I have and insert. I am told heat is what ruins the insert and causes it to break down which you will know as it will look and feel like you have a flat

I am running 15/14 for the most part and watch for those hard edged rocks ;-) A little Ride-On in the tubes and zip ties in the tool wrap and a Blackburn mini pump. BTDT with lower pressures and dented rims racing mtb. One finish with an almost flat rear and dented rim made me up my pressures a bit. I also like the Metzelers for the additional knob height which provide more rubber/space before anything can puncture the carcass.

speaking of knob height i know AMA rules say .750inch max depth for pro MX is there any such rule for offroad if there not why doesn't someone make a tire with a lot taller knob i think it would be very popular

FIM has the eco tire rule for all the Enduro machines.

Oh yeah this was a GT216AA thread... tire is stupid good. it is especially good where I need it to be in sharp rocks. eats sand really well too.

FIM is 13mm or .511 in.

http://www.fim-live.com/fileadmin/alfresco/CEN_Tech_rules_1_2014.pdf

AMA Motocross is 3/4 in.

http://amaproracing.cdn.racersites.com/assets/AMAP-MX-2014-Rulebook-Final.pdf

No tread depth rules for off road pro or amateur.