If you're outside of the USA and the Amazon seller won't ship, this ebay seller has the same item for about the same price. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/390587038185?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 (I know ebay links don't last forever so the seller is "thejumbodepot" and the item description "Brand New 7/8" 22mm Electric Plastic heated handle bar grips for Honda Kawasaki") That has a compatibility chart which doesn't include the TR650 but they are a perfect fit and it's only a 5 minute job to fit them (not including the wiring). The wiring supplied is exactly just long enough to let you hide everything in behind the headlight shroud. I wired mine up with a relay that is active when the headlight is on.
I had a spare auto relay on my bench so I used that. I ran power all the way back to the battery. It would have been nice if the spare power plug behind the headlight shroud was 12v not 5v. I just ran a very crude wire from the relay and jammed it into the plug on the rear of the headlight. Before I bought the bike I read that there was a 12v plug available behind the radiator probably for the factory heated grips, but I haven't even looked for that yet. Does anyone know the plug type & if they can be readily sourced? Anyone have any idea what the 5v plug could be for?
Well it seems there was a recall on the wiring harness, replaced that today and the grips work fine. Very warm!
I tapped into the switched 12v behind the right radiator. Plug is not one that matched one I had, so used a positap. 5v up front is likely for a GPS: probably the same wiring loom as on the BMW 650.
Does anyone have a picture showing the accessory outlet? I haven't had a chance yet to do serious snooping.
So I am farting around trying to figure the best way to wire up some heated grips. Reading big dog's suggestion here: http://www.bigdogadventures.com/11HuskyTR650.htm I am pondering the horn approach; "The one harness has 2 plugs---------work with the bigger one---ignore the smaller one. I tied power into the middle wire on the bigger plug (it feeds the horn)--------don't remember the color." In one of the attached images it shows the bigger plug, and on it I found two live power female connectors which only have power when the ignition is on, They are marked with a black pen. Does it matter which one of these is drawn off? ( assuming both are 12v, will test tomorrow ). Also, what's the best way to connect another wire to it? At this stage I am thinking of cutting one of the wires, and twisting the original wire plus an additional one, soldering it and heat shrinking it. Also thinking of feeding said wire (the new one) to a small distribution block instead of directly to the grips.. how many amps can those wires take? What gauge are they anyway? Any suggestions would be deluxe
Decided to cancel project 'horn powered heated grips', and commence operation 'wire in a distribution block' into the headlight / dash area. Went and bought a bunch of stuff, a fused relay, some wire, a self closing braided wire harness gizmo, and cable ties and what not. So today I bent and cut and filed the oxford heated grip control mount gizmo. Then fed the positive and negative wires into the braided harness gizmo, and fed this gizmo from the dash area into the battery area. Glued two distribution blocks to the lid of a plastic.. housing case thing. Re-routed the clutch cable because it was rubbing hard against the top of the radiator. This also stopped it rubbing against the wiring going to the dash area. Tomorrow I want to wire in the relay, using the rear brake light probably. So in the attached pictures you can see the clutch cable wear. The cable is now on the left hand side, in the area where you can see the red head of the engine. The little silver looking panel is for the heated grip control thing to go on. I put it in a vice and bent it, then hack sawed a bit off. The green things are distribution blocks glued on to that black bit which is a lid for a housing. The other photo is of the wiring harness thing just after putting it in, it has two wires in it, earth and positive. The positive one is rated to 25 amps.
Wired into the brake. The live one was labeled 3 on the plug. Soldered, heat wrapped and taped it. Relay next
Got the relay in It has some velcro tape underneath so it sticks to the battery. The housing thing the relay is sitting in was just a wee bit small for the lid to fit on. I have seen smaller relays, and if I get bored I might get one and fit that, so the lid can go on. Perhaps not so important though. Fed the wire from the brake light through some wiring loom, and to the battery area, along the left hand side. This is tomorrows job, fitting and wiring the distribution block, and then finally wiring in the heated grips It was quite fun doing that
Mostly ran cables for the grips today, cable ties and what not. Then I spent a wee while figuring out where to put the oxford controller in the headlight/dash area. After doing that for a while (over multiple bourbons), I decided to test my 'distribution block' gizmos, which I thought were all the same circuit, but turned out to be individual connector gizmos. After fluffing around in town, visiting a few electronics/auto stores, I discovered that the only thing anyone seemed to have related to what I wanted was a 'hum bar', which is for houses, which is pretty much a brass strip with screws in it, and is normally used in meter boards. So I bought a 'chocolate bar' or a 'connector strip', but because I wanted each thing on the connector strips to be either earth or positive, I needed to connect all the individual connectors somehow. So I got a long strip of wire, and then soldered a bunch of short bits of wire so that it connected them up, as below: So the idea is that the + and - wires from the relay/battery wire into two of these white connector block whatsits, and these white whatsits go into the headlight/dash area of the husky, and then heated grips / gps / radar / phones / heated vests / whatever wires into them. Was quite fun soldering them up, getting better at it now
I'm a bit confused on the relay being wired into the rear brake light circuit. Does this mean your heated grips will only work while you are on the brakes?
I did the same thing, but I used terminal strips (similar to this: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103229). Don't like how it's not as clean as I wanted it, but it does the job. I only have one circuit on there at this point. I also used a project box, and a smaller relay with all the wiring inside. I should clean it up, then post up since we did something really similar, I just haven't quite "finished" it. I'm thinking about changing quite a bit of it out in favor of some powerlets. and I'll need to beef up some other parts once I figure out everything for heated grips. I think I'm going to put together a small dash...we'll see.
That's what I would have done. That's why this confused me: "Tomorrow I want to wire in the relay, using the rear brake light probably."
i bought cheap ones from hong kong the first two rides were awesome, then the clutch side refused to heat up lived with it for a week or so then right one went, those were not waterproof they went under the grips and were green with corrosion heat shrink included and fitted, useless spend the money and get reputable ones imo. good thread, i wondered about plumbing in some from the rad system with a convection circuit .. ohh the possibilitys
Yeah as krussel said, it's the running light which is being tapped. I am a bit useless with all the proper names and terms sorry.
Hifive installed a "fuzeblock" (see ADVrider New Owners Stupid Questions thread http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=20561064&postcount=190) it's about the 13th pic down. This seems like a nice neat package. I think they're around $80 though. --Chris
