Help - 1974 WR 250 Starts easy, runs fine, and quits

Much more likely to be the condensor!

When replacing the coil, take some time and sand/clean the frame mounting tab so you have a good ground...

Thanks for the advice. I'm going to replace the coil first, and if that doesn't do it, pull the flywheel and replace the condenser. I'll post my results. Again, thanks.

Let us know how you get on

Got a little time this weekend, and replaced the coil. When I replaced the coil, I sanded the frame to make sure I had good contact. She did the same thing. I also put in 2 new spark plugs (head a spot for a spare--don't ask me why I replaced that one). Started and ran great for about 15 minutes, stumbled and quit. I pulled the plug wire, and tried another plug just grounded on the head to check spark. No spark, and then maybe intermittent spark. After awhile, what looked to me like a weak spark, and finally a strong spark. I tried to start her a bunch of times and she wouldn't start until the spark looked strong. She ran fine for about 5 more minutes, and did the same thing.

So, next job is to pull the flywheel and replace the condenser. If anybody has any tips (its reverse threaded, right?), feel free. Thanks for all the advice so far. I really appreciate it.

John

Well, it sounds like you've isolated your electrical, so that's a plus (pretty sure we were all pretty much there already, but confirmation is good). Sorry to hear the coil didn't do it, a few of us had our bets that it would. Regardless, at 40-plus years old, it's not a bad investment. As far as reverse thread,should be, maybe someone more familiar with your year can confirm. In my experience, the flywheel nut can be more of a pain than the flywheel itself as long as you've got the right flywheel puller. I've got an impact wrench, and I've had success in the past using the impact wrench to remove the flywheel nut (holding the flywheel with a thickly gloved hand instead of using the flywheel holder tool).

I didn't have the right size sockets, and went out and bought a set of six-point metric sockets. The size jumps from 24 mm to 27 mm. I'm guessing based on what I just experienced (nothing fit), that the flywheel nut is 25 mm. Before I order a 25 mm socket online because my local tool stores are terrible, I'd like to confirm that I need a 25 mm. Anyone?

Found a reference elsewhere to 25mms and ordered one.

Leave the fly wheel on , snip the condenser lead through the fly wheel window and position the new one by the coil under the tank connect to the LT terminal on the coil.

If you decide to pull the flywheel...
> 25 mm nut
> lh thread
> You'll need the Husky flywheel holder...a steel rod about 10" long with hooks at each end...one to fit in the flywheel...the other end fits into a hole in the frame near the footpeg.
> You'll also need the flywheel puller.
> When you pop the flywheel, carefully check the condition of the Woodruff key and the keyway. Replace as needed.
> Make sure the crank and flywheel tapers are smooth, with no burrs, and clean and dry when you re-install.
> Make sure the point cam surface on the flywheel has no pitting or burrs that will wear the points rubbing block. A THIN coat of grease is used on the cam, and the felt rub block.
> Torque to 50 ft lbs. Re-torque after first ride.

That's the way to do it properly, you can use an impact driver to undo the nut as previously mentioned, if the taper is a bit scruffy lap the flywheel on to it with some fine valve grinding paste.

I tried to avoid taking the flywheel off. My guess is that it hasn't been off in years or decades, and that it might be a bit of a challenge. So, I snipped the condenser wire through one of the flywheel holes. I took the tank off, and mounted the condenser, using the mounting tab on the condenser, to the coil using one of the two bolts that attach the coil to the frame. I wired the condenser lead into the small tab on the coil that the other wire goes to. I checked for spark, and have no spark at all. Where did I screw up?

Check if the lead you snipped goes to the points as well, on my points bikes, Starmaker engines, the condensor lead goes to the points and then the wire goes on out to the LT coil.

There's one lead from the condenser, and it goes to the points. That's what I snipped. I was wondering how it'd work with that being snipped. I'm guessing that I'm back to pulling the flywheel.

Apologies that hasn't worked, pulling the fly wheel will also give you a chance to change the points as well which I guess you will have to do at some stage

ooops flywheel should be ok to remove.....

Suggestion. I'm not sure what you guys do but I have a point file(eBay) I file the points and retap them.

The new points for some equipment come coated. I end up cleaning them anyway.

Stormer -- its all good. I'll figure it out (hopefully). Thanks for all the advice. I should have time this weekend to work on it.

If you have the correct flywheel holder...the lh thread nut will come off.
If you have the correct flywheel puller...that flywheel will come off also!!!
I've never had an old Femsa NOT come off...

In a pinch I use sandpaper first then reverse it to use it again on the smooth side to get the grit off the points.