Just recently converted my exhausts to flow throughs and did the PU. Also new spark plug and air filter. Now for some reason when I pull the throttle to about half the power dips to a near stall. If I hold it there it comes back. I can't overtake as I lose power when go to accelerate right at the crucial moment. It wasn't doing it before PU.
JD tuner or similar. Even with the PU you are probably running super lean after gutting your cans. Was the bike ever put on Ibeat? Also, check that your plug wire is fully seated and make sure the resistor is plugged in fully on the O2 connector. (And you did take the stupid baffle plate out of the airbox, right?)
I'm new to this stuff so hopefully someone else comes in here to give you actual help. Could this possibly be because the bike doesn't know if it needs more airflow or gas? Sounds like some of the mapping issues I've read about, but like I said; I'm new and don't know a whole hell of a lot. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but wouldn't the JD Jetting Tuner help to fix the problem he is having? EDIT: RDTCU beat me to it! At least I was on the right track I guess! See, I'm slowly learning!!
I don't have access to ibeat unfortunately. Is does sound like a mixture problem. I didn't have a baffle in my air box. I took off the snorkel. I'm definitely getting a power surge after the drop in power. It wheelies in 3rd now.
With or without the clutch? I wish my front end lifted off the ground in 3rd with no clutch.. I can only do that in 1st
Get you a JD tuner, it's easy to set up and easy to tune. There are a dozen threads with recommended settings here. Do you get some significant popping on deceleration? Like when you're coasting down a hill?
Without clutch. I have a 46T rear sprocket which has helped the gearing significantly. Can cruise around in 6th a lot more.
Gearing is a biiiig part of it too. I've got the TE ECU in my SMS, and it made a noticeable difference, but it didn't give me 3rd gear roll-on wheelies. If I do a little work, I can get it up in 3rd, but I've still got the 15/38 gearing... With 17" SM wheels and 15/46 gearing like Nick, I wouldn't be able to keep the front down.
How many teeth are on the front and rear sprockets that come standard on the sms 630? The guy I bought mine from went down a tooth in the front but left the rear alone if I remember correctly. How easy was it for you to do 2nd gear wheelies before changing your sprockets and ecu? Clutch or rolling on? Trying to get a feel for a couple things I'm considering doing for the performance side of things, I've got the appearance pretty much handled.
I've still got the stock 15/38 sprockets on my SMS, with the TE ECU, gutted cans/airbox and JD tuner. Clutching up 2nd is too easy, a little bounce/jerk will get it right up as well with no clutch. It will just barely lift the front in 2nd with a roll on. I can clutch it up in 3rd as well with a good bounce.
Where are you located? Would you be willing to write up a bill of sale through PayPal for it? More importantly, how much would you be willing to sell it for? EDIT: If you want to, just send me a PM and we can work something out I'm sure.
So, was teaching my little sister to ride the other day and she was just messing around on the bike in 1st/2nd gear for about an hour. I then got on the bike to go home and all the issues had gone. It was running extremely smoothly. I haven't had it out again to see if the issues come back when engine hasn't been running for a while. Any ideas?
For some reason my bike was running awful when I first started my ride earlier today, somewhere in the middle it seemed to fix itself... it was extremely smooth. I'm talking like the heavens opened up and shined down on my bike and made it run like an angel; yeah.. that smooth. I have no idea what's going on, I went for a little ride a bit ago and the bike is back to "jittery".
A temp sensor on it's way out can make it run like crap when it's cold, then decent once it warms up.
