Found debris the other day 1/4 washers on plug and in screen 2 pieces Lot of noise was coming from the clutch cover When going down hill so popped the cover to see wtf was happening Basket bushing is getting sloppy I noticed This is the noise along with springs rattling as the compress on down hill run I have a Cush hub on this bike to my surprise on a 99 te 610 Didn't know this till I got a flat a week ago Notice less wear in the basket than others are posting on this thread My opinion on this issue. This should be a factory recall! Going to mention his to my dealer today when I call them. I am sure I will not be the 1st to bitch about it Some of you have 5000 miles and failing This is not acceptable If someone asked me if they should buy one of these bikes I would tell them basket is nfg I get a lot of attn considering near every guy here has a husky chainsaw or bushcutter I own a 99 and it seems they never fixed this serious issue Big freakin flaw in drive train design I have 20,000 km on this bike now maybe more? Will have order up the kit or going to town and hit the lathe and make something up Has anyone thought of using T1-T3 steel High tolerance to wear but might beat the alum basket I have never tried to machine it though Just welded it Any other ideas on composite or metals that can be used? I have used a composite that looks like laminated carbon fibre for bearings in the past Engineers said it was the stuff to use Tons of pressure put on them and never failed I don't recall the name but can find it here Going to mail my buddy the Ing and find out the name if it My thought is if this breaks up at least it will not trash the motor I might as well be in Cuba here! No parts for my bike They sell them but don't stock jack I need a timing chain also and can't source this even in the states If any of you know where I can order one up my buddy will be in California next week Will update my 2 cents on this issue
Just rolled over 1800 miles on my 630 and clutch has been making grinding noises/being very grabby and such on shifts. Took it in to the mechanic and he's going to be taking a look at it in a week or so (dropped it off but he didn't have time to do more than take it for a test ride). Said he really didn't like the way it sounded/felt and worried if something was grinding inside it could result in a catastrophic failure if I continued to ride, so I left it with him and got a ride back home for now. Will post back once I hear from him what the deal was, he's going to be taking the clutch apart.
Just talked to the shop. Said he took the clutch apart and couldn't find anything wrong with it. I'm emailing them a link to this thread to read through, maybe there's some info or something he overlooked that one of you guys have spotted as the problem.
Hi Circus, Can you maybe tell me where did you order this cluch actuator arm? I had my broken two days ago on my Husky sm 610 ie 2007 and im stuck with the bike in other country so i need to find the part ASAP, so i was wondering if you can send me a link of the dealer or store where you bought it… I am from Serbia, Europe, and this was the only link so far discusing this issue… I have someone who can send it here, i just need a link where.. Thanks anyway, Balsha
You may want to PM Circus....hard to say how often he's checking threads. In the meantime there's the usual places you could probably reach out to, if you haven't already, such as Hall's Husqvarna. I've always gotten what I need there.
You might take it to a welding shop and see if they feel comfortable repairing it. There was a guy on another forum that documented a repair with pictures and he thought it was stronger than it ever was. BTW, the cause is usually because there isn't enough freeplay adjusted in....
Sorry dudes. I don't get an automatic email when someone responds to a post. I got mine from http://www.moto-forza.com/ it was around $100.
A mate just bought a te630. The owners who has quite a bit of mechanical experience said something about the reason the washers wear is because the main gear that attatchhes to the basket does not alight perfectly to cs gear.? ( one sits proud ).. I had never heard of this before. I have rebuilt 2 x te610 baskets with indys washers and aways just thought they wore out becuase they where soft parts. the seller of this 630 said he fixed the problem before his washers wore out (without replacing the washers ( .. I am not sure what he did but I will try find out ... there is lots of info here on repair, but other then "weak washers" not a lot of info on why they wear so quickly.. is something out of alignment and or causing undue strain on these parts ?
Well, those cup washers work under a shear stress, because half of every each is stressed in a direction and the other half is stressed in the opposite direction: Besides, the gear linked to the basket is rotated by a driving force acting on the area B, where you install the bushing, while the basket generates a resisting force in the area A, where there are the splines which let the hub transmit the force to the basket thanks to the plates. Under engine brake, the situation is inverted.
I think that fatigue and compression are for sure involved. However, IMHO that compression is not like the one which stresses, for instance, the spring spacers in a fork; notice how these three used washers are dented: Still IMHO, that happens because each of their seat is composed by two parts which move from each other: the slot in the basket and the one in the gear. The former is not so hard: it's aluminium, but the latter is made up of an hardened steel and so it dents the washer.
Posted these on the 630 thread on ADV, thought I would put them here too for reference. 6762 miles, pulled the clutch basket to inspect the spring cup washers - they all look flawless except for one spring where where they look thin. No scoring or wear marks though, but does that mean I need to replace them?
Mine looked pretty much the same at ~10k miles. I've got set of the thicker replacements, but I haven't swapped them yet. Maybe after this season.
+1 You can see the thin washer on the left has already started creeping out. Not too long before it is circulating in the oil and getting chewed up. You had perfect timing on inspecting this, don't replace with OEM use the Indy washers and then it should be a lifetime fix for you. _
+1. A mechanic checked my transmission after a washer circulated in my oil (he split the cases for another reason) and, in his opinion, it was pristine, but it's better not to risk, IMO.
Took about an hour yesterday morning. Easy job, but I have peened a lot of rivets in my time so knew what I was getting into. Hammered cold with a small ballpeen hammer, hardest part was figuring out something to use to buck the head - ended up using a body metal dolly. Some of the stock cup washers are very thin. One in particular did not look worn at all, was polished on the top surface. Oh well, I don't have to worry about this again now. The Indy kit is a slam-dunk.
Any tutorial for peening rivets that size? Most of the tutorial I find on youtube are for baby sized ones that peen themselves if you stare at them long enough.
