The aftermarket clutch is an assumption. We believe this to be the case because the snap ring pieces we found are not OEM. My mechanic says this snap ring is something that would be found on an aftermarket clutch. As far as recourse, no. I've talked to the previous owner and the Husky dealer that sold it to him. The Husky dealer talked to the first owner, that traded it in to them. Nobody will own up to it. Even if they did acknowledge it, there is really nothing I could do about it. Hopefully this fixes all the problems and I can enjoy this bike for a long time to come.
DavidQ is your bike a 610? If so I don't think there are any aftermarket clutches, except the dyna ring auto clutch that just came out recently. To the OP, yes, I too think the clutch washers are pretty cheesy. it's an awful lot of force on a mild steel thin as can be washer. My 08 610 ate em at about 7k, and the springs dug in to the basket pretty good.
Hello folks, new owner of a used 07 610 SM here. I've been going through my new bike checking it over, new tires, greasing bearings, fork seals, etc. Today when I was changing the oil I found this washer debris in the basket filter. This bike has only 6100 on the ODO, so I was shocked at what I found. Fortunatly I found this thread and it saved me a lot of time of trying to determine where it came from, thank you for posting BTW. So, what is the best option for resolving this problem? I have a hard time swallowing the idea of replacing the washers with what has already failed as described earlier in this thread. Upgraded washers? Aftermarket clutch basket? Thanks for any help.
you can ride it for a LONG time without the washers. But yeah, get the upgraded washers, some rivets from a dealer and 'fix' the basket.
Thanks for the response. If I order the cup washers from Hall's, I assume they will be the upgraded parts? Or is there another source I should look too? Also, for my education, could you clarify your 'fix' the basket statement? I'm a pretty good wrench, but want to be sure I'm not missing anything once I tear into it so I know it's right. Thanks again.
You'll have to ask Hall's about that, but I don't think so. I got mine from a guy over at ADV site named Indy Unlimited. You need to get the rivets from a dealer though.
Many thanks for the info guys, I made contact with Indy and ordered a set of his washers and the rivets from Hall's.
At the risk of beating a dead horse, just thought I'd share to emphasize the importance of monitoring your clutch basket for this issue. I ordered Indy's upgraded washers and got some time to pull my clutch. Once I drilled out the rivets and separated the primary gear from the basket, this is what I found. Fortunately, It doesn't appear to have caused any further damage to the motor or transmission. No sign of debris getting caught in any gear meshes. I did have to do some filling to smooth out some areas where the springs had rubbed on the basket. Even some of the springs had wear marks from becoming dislodged. I hoped I could find an aftermarket basket such as a Barrnett with stainless steel where the clutch disks usually wear, but no luck. Now the basket looks like this and appears it will be much more durable. Thanks again Indy, nice job! However, this being my first bike from across the Atlantic, I'm really disappointed with the quality of the material used by the factory. I've seen better quality in Chinese scooters. However, this being my first bike from across the Atlantic, I'm really disappointed with the quality of the material used by the factory. I've seen better quality in Chinese scooters.
Husky Doug, I changed my cam chain today on my 2008 610SM with 8800 miles (8 clicks). I have been having issues in the last few days of needing to adjust my clutch lever due to slacknesss - much more than normal. Upon changing the cam chain and oil, I found two pieces of thin washers which I am guessing are from the clutch. Can you possibly post a "how to" for what you need to do to change these washers and rivets, drilling things out, etc.? Did you do it yourself or need a machine shop? Also, what tool did you use for holding the clutch basket while removing the center nut and can you reuse the washer? Does Indy Unlimited have a website or did you PM him?
I would highly suspect the pieces of washer you found are from the clutch. As far as my methods for taking clutches apart, I use the tools I have handy, not necessarily the 'Proper' tools. To remove the center nut, I used a cold chisel I ground to a steeper pitch to push back the tab on the locking washer, then I just bump the center nut a couple times with my air impact wrench. I hold the basket with a big old wore out flat tip screwdriver, but the air tool usually easily breaks the nut loose without much additional support. I drilled out the rivets starting with a small (1/16") bit going about 5-6mm deep, then increase bit size and decrease drill depth until I get close to the hole diameter in the gear, then take a punch and tap it out. As far as reassembly, because the replacement shims are thicker which increases spring preload, I had to take a pair of channel locks with plastic guards, inserted the shims into the springs and compressed them as an assembly. Then I inserted them into the gear ensuring they are seated centered so the back plate and basket mesh up to the gear properly. I have a buddy who is aviation maintenance that has installed a million flush fit rivets, so I took it to him and used his flush rivet gun and a bucking bar setup in a bench vice. I held the assembly flush down on the bucking bar while he hammered them with his air hammer. The rivets I got from Hall's and they are pretty hard, so I wouldn't suggest trying this with a standard air hammer. If you slip, you could crack your basket which is over $300 to replace and there are no real aftermarket baskets available that I could find. If your not sure of your abilities, I'd find a machine shop or a buddy or buddy of a buddy that works in aviation that is a pretty good riveter. I installed the basket back into the motor and bumped the center nut back snug with my impact gun, then had my helper (wife) hold the basket with my old screw driver while I checked the torque. I just went on to the Adventure Rider site and sent a PM to Indy. He responded within a day and had a big batch ready to sell. He sends you the parts and you pay him via PayPal once you receive them. I had a chance to take my 610 out this weekend and thoroughly flogged it for about 150 miles of back country roads and it worked great. It really smoothed out some of the vibration that was ultimately caused by the failing spacers and springs flopping around and now the tranny shifts like butter. Hope this helps with your rebuild Circus.
Any news on an official fix or acknowledgement of the problem? Is there something we can do to spur Husky to act? This seems like a "going-to-happen" problem with a proper fix (cough cough warranty fix).
Yeah right, like they(BMW) did anything about the front suspension issue even while under warranty. I have a 2008 and lucky for me I haven't rode it much yet so I can do all the mods before something breaks. I too ordered the washers from Indy and have to get the rivets from the dealer I guess. Along with any gaskets etc. G
Soooo tell me about this front suspension issue you speak of please. I just bought my SM610 a few weeks ago and have been going through it as I have time. I've put about 600 miles so far, bike has 6700 total. The front end feels vague and nervous, so I checked my sag and came up with these numbers; 8 free and 23mm race. I'm about 240 with gear and find it highly suspect something isn't right. I know Husky uses heavier springs than big 4 does, but that just doesn't seem right. Since it doesn't have external preload or compression adjusters, what else should I look for before I break into them again. I just replaced a leaky seal and fresh 5wt fluid in both. I set the fluid levels to factory recommendations too. Doug
We were all under the impression that the front forks had adjustable compression as the advertising and manual stated so. But the 2008 models came without it. We thought he dealers or BMW might help us out but they didn't. Here is a link where you can buy the parts and mod it yourself. I never did mine yet. http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/product-announcement-08-610-adjustable-base-valves.1629/ G
Hi gang. New owner here, looking forward tp being a part of this great forum. Really aprpeciate the wealth of info here. I pick up my 2011 TE630 on the 16th of this month. Can't wait. Got it for 6100 OTD- I'm one of the lucky ones benfitting from the Husky 2K off deal. Is this issue w/ the clutch basket an issue w/ the 630's? Sorry if I missed that above- I did read through but may have missed it. My guess is that it is an issue, as I understand that the bottom end (loosely speaking) is the same as the 610. Thanks! Eric
I can't say for sure about the 630, but when you change your oil be sure to check the basket filter on the rider left side of the motor under behind the shifter. If they start to fail, the pieces should start showing up there, as well as shavings on the magnetic drain plug. Be prepared for a lot of oil to come out when you pull the cover and basket even after you drain the pan. Since you have a new bike, warranty should cover it I would think.
Thanks Doug, I appreciate the response. I gotta admit it's a bit disconcerting...more of a mild on-going paranoia issue (not knowing if/when something like this begins to disintegrate...which may be well after the warranty.) That's disappointing. Now don't get me wrong, not here to bash Husky- I certainly understand that virtually all bikes have known weak links, just wished to avoid wondering about a time bomb issue. Extra vigilance is, as always, the key (or, if I learn that it is the same basket, to just get it out and taken care of.)
Vigilance is the key for sure. If you have a pretty good dealer, I'd print off some of the pics I've posted and have a conversation with him and see what Husky says about it. If he can't get answers, though he may already know, he has a heads up he might get a return visit from you to address it when it's too late. "Pay me know or pay me later".
I found same exact debris on my magnet i change it every 200 miles curious if i need to order the same washers? they should fit.... I have a 2008 sm 450 r...Any suggestions? Thanks in advance!
