hot start issues: where to start 2012 TXC310

Pull the sprag out of the flywheel to see if it is worn.

I did pull it out. worn how? its got some scuff marks from use and riding in the ring but over all like most things that ride in oil it still retains a "clean" look. I guess I was hopping to hear from someone who's changes one out. Did it still spin and work correctly when they disassembled or was it crunchy like a bad bearing. I guess I don't really understand how the part wears out but I'm guessing once high heat is put to it under pressure it sure works differently then simply spinning once removed from the bike.

Joe

Still waiting on parts. bummer. . . I spoke with a Bob @ central jersey Cycles and he said go ahead and pull the spring off the sprag, pay attention to orientation. The one side of the sprag I noticed does have an arrow. He said he's seen small bits of metal or other things stuck in between them.

the only real ware is on the inner (to flywheel) edge. It's even on all the inserts. Doesn't seem that bad to me? but this is the ONLY one I've looked at. The bikes got about 120 so hours on it.

Joe

It looks okay to me!

Thanks Rich,

I almost broke down and called you this weekend. I was so pissed off to have everything but that Dam zipty tool was inhand. No slam on the guys at zipty just very frustrated to have blown the long weekend. I should have known better then to pull things apart before having the tool. I had ordered in a week ago so I figured it would just show up before the parts. To add insult to it I tired to tighten it with a homemade holder that slipped and put a few very small dents on the (outer) magnetic side of the flywheel. Hopefully they won't effect it as the replacement price is WAY high. I took the starter apart to check out the brushes found the plastic that holds them has some spider cracks in it. When I poke at them with a pick you can see plastic plate flex a little but all and all if I had to pick a week link of the gears I pulled out or the sprag I think I'd pick the starter.

hopefully I can get the guy to overnight the missing inner ring for the tool and I can find some time this week to test it.

For those in the future going through this the manual does do a good job going over removal and install of the pinion. I would just add after you get the 10mm bolt off the old the pinion is just a pressure fit. I used a small piece of wood to punch out the old one. The pinion on mine were in in good shape but they are sold as a set so might as well replace.

The pinon also uses it's own woodruff key. Bob @ Central Jersey Cycle included one with the order but If you're just ordering parts off the internet I'd say for the 25 cents order a new one. You don't need to take the starter apart but if you do. The rear bolts are 5.5mm

I have the rest of the tool in North NJ.

Bring the bike by and we can put it on correctly.

Ok so the gods seem to done fooling with me. zipty was kind enough to send me the missing part right from there tool box as they are currently out of stock. Then the USPS decided oh wait were not gona leave it! so i lost another day which brings us to to Wen.

So we left off with the flywheel off. The install is in the revers order and the manual does do a fair job of pointing out the important bits. I'll just highlight some of the issue I found. I started by removing the woodroof key and cleaning the shaft and flywheel valve grinding compound. mate the two parts with the key removed, rotate a few times and then clean everything with brake cleaner.

Double checking the gasket on the starter. The book points it out but it's important to lined up the oil hole. You need to have the washer, flange outwards, bearing and ring in place. you want to add a little oil to all these parts. install the starter back. A few light taps may be needed.



If everything looks good replace the starter screws and tighten to 6nm or 48 in/lbs. I previous to this had already run a new 8 gauge wire from the relay. I also found it easier to loosen the clutch cable and rotate the barrel. After everything is reinstall I'll reposition and bleed. I found that cable is not tucked can easily get melted. This is a replacement cable.

I'll decided to go with the loctite 609 as Rich and others have used. I didn't find any on my bike but figured I'd give it a go. The set time on isn't to fast but it's always best to get the tools need before you start. I recleaned the area including the threads. Installed a new key and applied some green 609.I slide the flywheel, then the washer and nut. Got the flywheel holder positioned along with the torque wrench and all went smoothly.



When reinstalling the cover, remember there are two longer screws they go at 12 and 6, Its also a good idea to add a dab of gasket sealer where the boot for the wires come through.



The remaining steps are replacing the exhaust, replacing the battery, bleeding the clutch, zip tying and don't forget the oil!

I'm waiting till the AM to give everything time to set.

Joe, you are da' man... I know if I have any issues on my bike, you've tackled it already! ;-)

BTW, supposed to be a good idea to silicone seal those wires coming through the rubber block from the stator, prevent any water getting in.

Figured I'd follow up. After the aforementioned stuff above was done the bike was still having starting issues however they were not related to heat, ather it was the starter itself just dieing a slow death. I pulled it back apart and all the connections and windings were really dark and it was easy to tell, after 115 or so hours it ws just toast. I called around to a few of the dealers in the area and the boys in PA @ toy tech (who've I used in the past for parts and tech help) had one in stock and gave me a fair price. I try and but local when I can, these days however with the backorders from Husky if I can fine it in stock I buy it.

Along with the starter I also replaced the power wire from the battery. The one pictured is a second set I made for R_Little. The stock husky wire is about 10 gauge and I bumped up to marine grade 8 plus much better connectors. The key is a good swaging tool. If you know anyone who makes up cables they will mostly likely have one. Also Most of the West marine stores have one in the store and will allow you to make the fitting there, plus they sell ancor wire and fittings which are top notch.

The cable on the 310's are exactly 24" and the ring size is 1/4"

With the new starter and cable in I took the bike out for a short ride and all seems happy, I'm meeting Sunday with some friends for a better test.

cheers

Joe

Well Joe, how did it go today?

Let me guess, you never once fell or stalled so u never were able to check the hot start!?

The bike rode well, no issues with the starter and I'm getting good with the kicker. If I'm stopped I general try and kick it as I ride with a good deal of older 2 strokes without e-starts. In neutral I can get it in a single kick most of the time.

I also used the zipty oil kit as well as hooking back up the line to the air filter. All worked fine and no more oil slick when I finished. Not sure about vapor line to the airbox I may pull that back off if I find any oil in the air intake area

.

HELLO AND HAPPY NEW YEAR HUSQman's

AFTER 5 MONTHS WHAT HAPPENED WITH THE STARTER;
SOMEONE HAS A SOLUTION TO THE PROBLEM;
PLEASE ANSWER WHY MY FRIEND lsoup
HAVE SAME PROBLEM
Greetings from GREECE ...

It's a rather complex problem to just throw parts at. You're better off pulling things apart to rule out replacing expensive and hard to find parts that might not be needed.

Joe

Άλλαξε ΝΕΑ STARTER Νομίζω 1.200 χιλιόμετρα.

Ανοίγουμε το κεφάλι & βαλβίδα κλέφτης φαίνεται καλό.
Βασική επίσης και τη βίδα (μακαρόνια).
Τέλος μίζα αρρωσταίνουν μετά από 4-5 μήνες να μην ξεκινήσει τη μίζα συνδέσετε τη μηχανή απευθείας στη μπαταρία και στρίβει δεξιά ...
ΚΑΤΙ ΑΠΟΔΥΝΑΜΩΣΗ STARTER POWER,
Αλλά τι ????

ΜΟΤΟ ΜΑΣ ΕΙΝΑΙ TE 310 2013

sorry....Trying correct translation...

Changed NEW STARTER about 1,200 kilometers.
WE OPEN THE HEAD AND VALVE lifter LOOKS GOOD.
STARTER ALSO AND SCREW (spaghetti).
FINALLY WHAT STARTER get sick after 4-5 months NOT START ENGINE.
CONNECT STARTER directly to the battery and turns right ...
SOMETHING WEAKENING STARTER POWER,
BUT WHAT ????

OUR MOTO IS TE 310 2013

and battery is ok!!!

Karaman,

IF the starter is working but not turning over the engine very well it can mean that some of the armatures winding's (and or commutator) are burned (causing some shorts across the windings thus the "amount" of turns of wire aren't really "right"..) ... you can have a starter that turns but really isn't putting out much torque. Would need to be replaced. (The armature windings will look very dark, it's actually the insulation [an enamel coating] that kinda burns)

If it is not working at all from switch, then it (like need2boat said)needs to be traced back, I would start at fuses at the starter relay as well as the relay it self.

You said you checked the valve lifter and it looked good. You did not mention what the valve clearance spec was, specifically where the decompressor is activated. I suggest you test the kickstart at those times the starter is not operating as it should. If the kickstarter is stiff and requires excessive effort and seems frozen, the problem is your decompressor not activating fully. You will want to open the valve cover once again and reduce the clearance so the decompressor activates properly. This issue will destroy your starter and be a consistent headache. Once adjusted all problems may just go away. Been there myself.

thanks for the answers !
moto is not mine.
We will see the next few days if everything right (windings & valves) and will write again.

the owner says to get the kit '' screw and gear '

good to wait before buying???