The whole cover needs to come off to seal the join that has been put together without sealant. You need to take the water pump housing off to do do this, it isnt a big job. You will need another gasket for the pump, i just made one from a sheet of gasket paper. I saw on a forum (maybe this one?) that the pump needs a proper gasket, rather than just RTV because of clearances between the rotor and housing, its best not taking the chance for the sake of a gasket.
Ordered the water pump gasket. To seal the cover, do I need a particular RTV or will any oil resistant high heat work?
Im assuming high temp instant gasket works because i just went to my local motor factors and asked for instant gasket and this is what i got and used - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Granville-High-Temperature-BLACK-Instant-Gasket-Silicone-Sealant-Can-200ml I think i sealed it early 2015 and its not leaked since
I have given this more thought, i was thinking of the most basic way to get the seal out in the post above If you got some long bolts the same thread as the screws and a couple of matching nuts and a short length of maybe 5mm thick steel flat bar. Drill holes through the bar to match the screw holes that hold the retaining plate and a couple of holes that line up with the seal shell that allow the self tappers to drop through. You put the bolts through the bar and the nuts part way up the bolts, screw the bolts with bar to the casing, carefully screw the self tappers into the seal shell through the bar, just enough to get a good hold, then wind the nuts up the bolts, pulling the screws with the seal. This way the pressure is put on the thickest part of the casing surrounding the seal.
Can't you access the seal from the pump side? just knock it out from the outside (pump side) no? Also I have not seen pictures of the crank, after my balance shaft nut came off it destroyed the shaft end and threads are gone, had to replace whole shaft
Some of the threads we're damaged up front but I'm hoping once I get it started that it will be good. I'll cross that bridge when I get there.
Just checked for a new crankshaft and that would be $800+. Wonder if the threads are damaged, maybe run a die on it to clean them up? Anyone know the thread pitch?
Just wait until the new parts arrive before continuing further. Try the new nut before doing anything to the threads, maybe they will just need a gentle dressing with a triangle needle file. Put oil on the threads before running the new nut up, to try and stop it picking up any damaged threads. I will be good to hear you got your bike back running with not much cost and effort. I hope i dont come across like im trying to teach my granny to suck eggs, nuances and the things you pick up about people in person are kind of lost over a forum
crank is $729 or $869 they list 2 different part numbers https://halls-cycles.stores.dealerspike.com/search.aspx?keyword=800084824&soption=2 https://halls-cycles.stores.dealerspike.com/search.aspx?keyword=800098007&soption=2
OK, i feel a little stupid now, that is the end of the crank that broke off in the picture. I thought that you had taken the gear off the crank and found the key to be damaged as a result of the nut turning loose. So, i wonder when the piece of crank got broken off, was it already broken, waiting to be found, or was it broken by the nut turning loose?
You will find that part # 800084824 supercedes to 800098007. The is one here in the classifieds http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/new-oem-te-sm-610-crank.88108/ About 5 bucks more than a rod kit from halls.
I knew about the crank ear being broken. I damaged it last time I had the case off. Was gonna have a buddy weld it when he has time
So i am going mental, i should check peoples post history before posting replies i remember the thread about the crank ear being broken now So is the woodruff key from the gear on the crankshaft?
When you reassemble the oil pump, remember to realign the pin like said here: http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/sheared-crank-oil-pump-te610.255593/#post-5316839 and I also suggest that you do the banjo bolt test described in the same post. I support the idea of just trying a new nut on the damaged crankshaft threads in order to striaghten them a little.
Unfortunately parts won't be here until mid January so the bike will be down for a while. I will update the thread when I finally get parts.
