250-500cc I kick and kick and kick

+1, one kick wonder

Well not so much water but it cuts off the vents so the the fuel cannot be pulled from the bowl to the venturi stream. Basically as your piston goes up it creates negative pressure in your crank. The positive pressure in your air intake fills this void. As the intake air rushes through the carb it draws fuel up from the carb bowl. It draws it up because moving air creates negative air pressure (vacuum). If the vents are blocked this will cause a vacuum lock (lack of positive pressure) in the bowl and no fuel can be drawn into the intake.

your jetting is miles off.needle mid position.air mixture screw (not idle screw) 1.5 turns out.this should be ideal with the correct sized pilot.the throttle position screw (idle screw) is all the way in lifting the slide to let more air in to the carb to lean out the mixture, youve dropped your needle to lessen the amount of fuel getting through.your dealer should have sorted this by now.i would also recommend grinding back or putting in a higher number slide. but please change that pilot and do some plug chops to confirm.hope this helps, i like tinkering so it is not so much of a pain for me to get things sorted on my bikes but if you get stuck and if anyone can add to this then do so as i am no expert.

I thought my dealer was crazy , telling me to lay it down and till gas runs from drains , but it works like a champ cold!
I know mines a wr250 , but starts one kick ALL the time after warmed up , and always when in in a big mud puddle or stalled in the middle of a creek! heheheh.

Ok heres where i am with my 300wr, keihin PKW.40 pilot,red needle center clip 175 main 1.5 to 2 turns out air screw but no change in idle . Bike rips all through the gears , run perfect !!! no bog !! smooth!!! BUT will not idle unless the idle screw...(not air screw) is turned all the way in !!! starts in 1 to 3 kicks dead cold, starts 2 to 3 kicks hot but if it cools down for 15 to 20 mins after a hard ride it can take 10 kicks to fire and you end up holding the throttle wide open .BTW i dont have the idle screw bottomed out now i justfleather the gas to keep it running. ANY SUGGESTIONS?

I would try a 38 pilot.

+1 on a smaller pilot. What your doing is raising the slide to let in enough air to compensate for too rich of a pilot circuit.

smaller pilot, ill try that thanks

38 pilot, I would also run CEL needle#2 works better than JD red

what or who makes the a CEL needle and where do i get one ?

Sudco , if not pm me and I will mail you one

CEL does give better power delivery than either JD red or blue. When I have used JD red it is better in the 2nd clip or even first, otherwise too rich.

I opened the carb and found it had a 45 pilot , just changed it to a 40 wait till next weekend to try it.

Just remember if you make one change at a time it will either get better or worse and you can always change it back. If you keep at it not only will you get the feel of what circuit does what but at some point it will be as good as it gets and a change will only make it worse.

I use the red JD needle on the second clip from the top on my 2010 wr300. 175 Main Jet. 42 Pilot. Air screw 1 3/4 out. It idles and starts nicely. FYI If you hold the throttle open a little it will help the bike start when hot.

i think to 42 is gonna be the happy medium. i hold the throttle a bit when starting and seams to be fine most of the time . but twice yesterday after taking a 15 break in-between ride the bike took like 10 kicks to get it going when it should have fired in 1 or 2

I have a 32.5 pilot with the air screw at 1 1/8th in mine right now @ 1,000ft in really good cold air and was running a 30 in hot humid air two months ago.

We have Keihin carbs. A 32.5 would be crazy lean.

Ha Ha I reckon, I still had in my head the first post on this thread and missed the Keihin add on.

+1 again. only time its hard to start is when wearing thongs(dam that hurts!) & after surgery to repair snapped right achilles tendon-left foot still starts piece of cake. TDC!