125-200cc I seized her again...

kellys right you better change both seals at the minimum unless you just really really really like spending money and working on it instead of riding it

I found this for you

http://docs.wavenetworks.us/parts//2007 WRE-SMS 125 Parts.pdf

it might be helpful

I don't know your year but its fur sure the same engine set up as that you have

Robert-Jan

hey im all about it but dont you have to split the cases to change the drive side one? i doubt that is going to get done

No need to split the cases. Pull the primary gear, pull the spacer that goes over the crank end and seals against the seal. Now use a seal puller you can rent at any auto parts store and pull the seal. Install the new seal and re-assemble.

Ps, One thing to always consider with the SM/WRE is that with the detuned cylinder(all ports lowered ~3+ mm) your effective compression ratio is higher than the WR/CR. So when you increase the breathing capacity of those motors with WR/CR induction and exhaust parts you are going to need to run better fuel or richer carburation to compensate. Just an FYI.

Is this the case if I have put a CR cylinder on, or what are the implications of that?

It's fitted already, the PV Pulley setup just mounts over where the mechanical setup would connect to the valve puller!

the timing of the exhaust valve is a fixed programed thing in the control unit.

it will work but you will never achieve the same characteristics as a wr or a cr with the electrical actuated set up.

unless you go in the internals and possibly able to modify the electronics (most unlikely)

Robert-Jan

Yeah I was thinking this from what I read but I don't mind so much about absolute max performance.

If you are using the CR cylinder then you are fine with compression but the pv timing will be different as Robert-Jan stated.

The pic of your seal looks very suss Harley.

You can make a cheap leak down tester with a rubber foot from a pair of crutches, or a tapered rubber plug (for the exhaust side) & a plastic pipe plug, the same size as the intake manifold & a tubeless tyre valve. It was under AUD$15 for the lot.

Drill a hole in the plastic plug, smaller than the tyre valve, so that the tyre valve fits in snug & tight. Then pull the valve in through the hole. Mount the rubber in the exhaust hole & install the plastic plug in the intake manifold & tighten up the hose clamp onto it.

Then pump it up with a push bike pump to about 8 PSI, then measure the pressure drop with a digital tyre gauge. You should not exceed 1 PSI / minute pressure drop. If you do then there is an air leak some where. To locate the leak mix up a spray bottle of soapy water and spray it around the engine over the seals, gaskets etc. You will see bubbles forming at the site of the air leak.

It was what I had to use to find a similar problem on my 165. I found that I had a warped intake manifold that was leaking & causing mine to suck in air, hence leaning it out & seizing it.







On another note see if you can measure the squished solder with vernier callipers or a micrometer not a ruler.

Hope this helps Harley. Good luck mate!!

nice bush mechanics Damo!

That is some seriously cool work on a budget right there! Really liking that, I'll give it a go soon.

On another note, I see you have V-Force reeds there - what model are those? I hear the V301B (Honda CR125) is what I'm looking for would that be correct?

Guys, luck is seriously out the window now...

Still the detonation continues.

Heres where Im at:
Sketchy looking bearing seal replaced
MS3 rod installed and carb setup - PJ is still 4 turns out for good measure lol
Still got two base gaskets in - squish should be more than adequate
No apparent leaks

that the trouble with leaks they aren't apparent

did you check the other seal of the crank shaft?

still could be in that one
if it is on the top of the seal then the air can enter through the engine housing you might try to close yor carter vent hose and see if that makes a difference

reed cage or reeds not cracked?

gasket between the engine carter half's

Robert-Jan

I haven't replaced the other seal because I don't have an impact wrench and I don't think I'll get far without one on that side.

Tried plugging the oil breather but it didn't make any difference.

I'm gonna build a leak-down tester asap and go from there.

Update: On a whim I went out to see how close I could get to the other seal.. Got all the way in without much trouble using my mini socket set and a wrench but as expected I can't get the bolt off the crank shaft with the tools I have. Making some calls now to see if I can get someone to call over with a bigger socket set!

Left hand thread that side Harley Are you sure it detonation not some other noise ??? with all those parts replaced even if the right side seal is leaking I cant see that making it detonate unless the thing is not even fitted plus it would smoke like Thomas the tank engine

Haha that may have been the problem then, I did try going the other way but I'm just starting to take the edges off the bolt so I'll wait for a bigger socket set.

Pretty damn sure it's detonation - no doubts really and it hasn't changed any. It's killing me now at this point, what the hell is the problem!

Seriously. Intake area is sealed up real good, MS3 installed and I'm four-stroking all over the place, fresh left side crank seal and large squish clearance thanks to the two base gaskets being in.

I haven't been loosing ANY oil from the clutch nor do I have excessive smoke, so I doubted the right side seal was the issue either but at this point I'll try anything. Worth mentioning I also plugged the oil breather to see if it was sucking air, again no resolve.

Few more questions:

• Can you have an air leak from your powervalves?
• I have a fresh o-ring on my exhaust but could I draw air in that way?
• Could old/bad fuel do this? Is it worth getting some fresh to try?