I solved the/my "noisy" engine problem (and it's not what you may think it is)

Here's some pics of the tensioner... RedRims post made a LOT more sense after I got the thing in my hand. Hopefully these pics will help demystify someone else who was like me.

Excellent Post redrims! Rep for you!

Manual CCT

Is there a verdict? Does the manual made for the 610 fit? If not, I'll be working on my 09 TE310 this week and can check with the manual from my 610.

I have an extra adjuster as well that I can send. The threads of the spring tensioner bolt stripped out of it and I got a new one. I almost retapped and made a manual adjuster out of it.

Cheers for the "heads up" red', my 08' SMR510 sounds like a bag of spanners at tick over, the sound disappears once the revs rise, much like you state. I was told that this is normal on these and other crossers,but unlike yourself I did not own the bike from new so Knew no different so I thought nothing of it, but I will be taking a very close look at the tensioner in the next few days

Dave

Looking at the tensioner, surely it would be very easy to convert it into a manual type. All you would have to do is replace the spring with a suitable sized/diameter length of rod. Then replace the original retaining bolt with one of the same screw thread but longer. This would enable you to put an additional nut on the thread, so that it could be locked in a specific position. This would certainly prevent the adjuster pin from being pushed back all the time

Dave

Btw, when I got my new/replacement adjuster I didn't install it as per the instruction manual, as I didn't want a repeat occurance.

What I did was install the adjuster body minus the spring and screw. Then I manually pushed the adjuster pin in all the way by hand with a probe and "felt" for the contact of the pin against the chain guide and then pushed that in and "felt" for the contact of the chain guide against the chain itself. I then pushed in a bit more (1-2 clicks) to make sure the guide was snug against the chain thereby eliminating any and all slop.

I didn't trust the spring to be strong enough to load the chain guide up against the chain snugly enough (which is probably the reason why most of these engines make noise even if the pin isn't stripped). A little slop causes the chain to really slap on the guide which then slaps on the adjuster pin and it makes a hell of a wracket. You can REALLY appreciate how noisy it is when the condition has been rectified.

The dead give away that this condition exists is if the noise goes away when engine speed is increased off idle as was exactly the case in my situation.

I made sure the pin was positively locked in place by tapping a little on the back side of it with the probe. I then installed the spring and screw.

The only problem I can see by doing it that way, is the risk of over tightening the guide!

The verdict is no.



06 TE610 on left, 09 310 middle, APE right. The housings are exactly the same. TE610 has an aluminum cap crimped on top of the steel cap of the 310. That is the only difference, and maybe the ratchet spring (not the one that pushes the adjuster) is a little stiffer on the 310.
The APE would work except the adjuster screw is too long and would hit the starter motor on the 310. That's a easy fix, but the head, which was fashioned off the 610 is a problem. Not that the diameter is a problem, but the thickness is, at least on my bike. The tensioner is only out 1 click after 1400 miles, versus the 610 which was out 4 or 5 after a new timing chain. Only thing that needs modifying is the adjustment bolt.

It will work but like mentioned the bolt is close to the starter. I think they are going to do one with a new bolt.

Mine was 3 clicks out after 1500 hard miles and it is a pretty tight fit with the 610 tensioner.





Later,

I have to agree, but I'm no engineer for sure. My experience is with the 610. At 7000 mi. the original CC was worn out. Auto tensioner at 10 clicks out. I now have over 8,000 on the new chain and the manual CCT is eqivilant to 6 clicks and hasn't moved in 3000 miles. I set the manual by putting in the auto CCT and turning over the engine by hand. Set the manual to this exact setting. I'd be careful with adjusting it too tight. There is a ton of discussion about this issue on ADVRIDER TE610 thread, but my experience with the manual CCT has been positive. HTH and of course YMMV

You mean I did all this research for NOTHIN!! just to be proved wrong. That 3 clicks would make a difference. I think the manual in my 310 would have been too tight. There you go boys, everything you wanted to know about cam chain tensioners.

What if the chain is just plain overstretched beyond the limit of the adjuster?Can you tell by excess slop up top on the cam gear?

Can you guys listen to my 07 610 in the following vid and post up your thoughts on what i should do to fix er? that ticking at idle is driving me bonkers!!


Many thanks

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r5I_RoBVW0o

I think the idle might be a wee bit low. Can you take it up to about 1800/2000 rpm and see how she is then. Just a thought, if she already is at that level then there is definately some form of mechanical slap in there.

yeah it's at that range for idle...

So would you think a manual CCT would be the first thing to try? or pull out and check the auto one and re-seat it?

i'm a bit of a retard with a wrench LOL

Great thread. My 08 450 at around 900mi started making the exact noise you describe. I'll be pulling mine apart soon!

Was your final solution to replace it? Did cutting bigger groves into it work for a while, or was that just for test purposes?

guys i think husky have the parts too i have ask my wife who is in Australia and it cost about $300. here is the part number

Part no. 8000H0450

Chain tensioner kit TC/TXC/TE/SMR 4T (excluded 250 4T MY 10)

MY 05/06/07/08/09/10

Did anyone try this ? It looks to me like it would work, too. I'm thinking just a long bolt with a jam nut would the trick.

thanks redrims! my 2007 te450 did exactly the same when i bench tested it, so i ran a m10 tap down where the spring and nut goes,took a m10 bolt and drilled part of the way down the threaded end of the bolt, enough for the spring to fit in. then fitted the tensioner back on the bike, used a probe to set the tension then fitted the bolt with copper washer and locknuts, i then turned over the engine a few times, then started the engine as normal. i wound my adjuster in steady until chain slap could'nt be heard, then backed it off a touch, tightened lock nuts and it sounds really quiet now at tickover, and no chance of adjuster working it's way back.