Raisrx251- I think this simular to BBCMat's DIY EFI Tweak but that was adjusting the opposite way that you describe- "closing the butterfly" not opening it- but the LEO ECU may be why? thanks Seymore!!! Yes they apparently did not know this at the time- which did nothing for me- well my TPS was adjusted... So I may actually be able to expect more- I may be able to get rid of the slight hesitation doun low by adjusting CO1.... OK- nice to know, I have been very happy overall but I have accepted the low rpm hesitation and flameouts more than I normally would. I was told I was expecting it to do something it can't do. When I figured I should at least expect my efi bike to run as well as my 8 year old bike with a generation 1 fcr... So this is very good info for me. I may have to buy a tuner if I can't get it resolved by the dealer. I guess it will depend on if they have the Ibeat 2...
The setup for TPS as I have seen and quoted from a factory setup sheet was: Warm Engine: Full throttle = 100.2% on 450/510 and 100.4% on 310/250 This usually requires the idle TPS setpoint to be in the 996-1026mV range to reach that setpoint. Turn throttle plate hard stop to achieve this reading. On my 510 my software TPS is set at 1006 - 1011 mV. to achieve this. Now - my own mods Hardware setup is now 3/4 turn in from fully closed - only because 1/2 turn in was causing throttle sticking at -15C from dead cold. Turn the idle bypass screw in to allow smooth throttle response in the 0-10% range on the stand (no load). The idle rpm ends up being whatever it is. Mine is at 2 3/4 turns out from fully seated - exactly as the factory sheet said. Idles between 1850-1950rpm. The idle air screw bypass ideal position changes under heat load and with large changes in CO1 value. It also changes with different fuel brands and with winter/summer gas (Canada) No - I do not have a scan of the sheet. MAT
More on this and my TE510 experience: First setup TPS to either 100.2% or 100.4% wide open throttle on a warm motor and fully charged battery. Adjust the idle air bypass on a warm but not full hot motor (fan not running). Start from 3 ½ turns out. Carefully/slowly roll the throttle open from idle to about 3500 rpm and back to idle. Turn the screw in until the rpm gain is linear with the throttle movement (no bog and lurch). Stop as it just as the hesitation fully disappears. In the bush the motor is full hot (fan on) and/or the air inlet temp is high the ECU will over-fuel the motorand require a little more idle air (1/8-3/8 turn) get the throttle linearity back. Once the fan starts the temps stay pretty consistent. Your right on the money when it starts from full hot with a tap on the button or one boot of the kick start. If it struggles to start add more air - worst - remove air. A rough set of CO1 is 1.5% above a lean pop during snap throttle opening. Back CO1 down 1 % at a time while the bike is running on the stand – SNAP the throttle open – drop CO1 it until you get a lean pop (backfire) or the rpm doesn’t jump up in sync with the throttle. Now back out the idle air bypass to 31/2 turns and find it’s new best spot using the technique above. Snap the throttle again – increase CO1 in .5% increments until the lean pop/hesitation JUST disappears – reset idle air bypass. Let the bike cool down for 10 minutes. Record this aircrew position and CO1 adjustment. This is a good compromise in really sloppy conditions or pavement riding for fuel economy. For good snap add 1.5% to 2% and reset idle air screw. Record you results with and without spark arrester because it will be different. Experiment with adding more fuel BUT most “snap throttle openings” end up in the lower part of the CO2 range – find the balance. Don’t even think about the idle speed – it ends up where it ends up. If you can’t get used to it – there is always the DIY TPS TWEAK. My 510 ended up 2050-2100 rpm without the tweak – drove me nuts. The main driver for the idle rpm spec in the manual is emissions output and leaving extra fuel in the exhaust to keep the catalytic converter at temp. (IMO) CO1 has it’s greatest effect 0-20% throttle. At 20% it’s being blended with the CO2 value. Record before after info and ENJOY THE POWER OF IBEAT. Get a white paint pen and mark 20 / 40 / 70% throttle on the twist grip and ride around changing co2 and co3 for best balance of power and smoothness in each zone and from zone to zone. I was suprised how much time I spent in hovering in the 15-25% zone in singletrack. MAT
As a reference - an 08 450 I looked at required a TPS setpoint of 981mV for 100.2% full throttle. MAT
bbcmat, Any idea how to tweak an 08 510 like this since I've only got TPS and FB as options for tweaking through iBeat? Pretty interesting stuff. XLenduroman, I am lucky! Was going to sell the 510 after getting the 250 but I made the mistake of riding it again The suspension is so nice and plush and that fat powerband just makes it a blast to play on in open terrain.
bbcmat - thanks for all the great information but I am not clear on how to obtain the 100.4% full throttle setpoint on my 09 310 using ibeat. Is it as simple and just reading the voltage and if between 996-1026mv it is good? What i am not getting is how you knew that your 510 required 1006-1011mv to get 100.2%. Where do you see the 100.2%? I am probably just missing something simple. Thanks, Steve
I can answer some of that. When you open Ibeat, normally you see the dial gauges. Click about the third button on the upper left hand side and it will show large numbers. In there you will see a throttle % and if you open your throttle all the way it will tell you the number.
I get over 101% on my Ibeat at full throttle. I dont see where you can change this with the software?
I don't have an Ibeat but my understanding is that you adjust the mechanical throttle stop on the Throttle Body- allen wrench and lock nut on right side bottom left of cable wheel cover- it sticks out there... adjust this so that when you have wide open throtle it says 100.2% then accept then reset the TPS.
What he said From bbcmat's post above he listed the throttle settings as: Full throttle = 100.2% on 450/510 and 100.4% on 310/250
Copy down where you started (TPM setpoint) - then you can always go back to it if you don't like the result - or are troubleshooting a drifting value. MAT
That is correct. The limitation is because of the ECU firmware and not iBeat functionality. There was never an ECU firmware that enabled FB2 or FB3. Some have upgraded to 09 ECU, but had an issue with a neutral light flashing.
08 and 09 610 ECUs are the same, so on 610 you can only adjust FB1 irrespective of year. There is no later ECU. 09/10 ECUs are different to 08 on twin cam bikes and you can adjust FB2/FB3 on 09/10. For '10 450/510 you need Ibeat 2.1 to adjust correctly due to software issue with '10 ECUs. 08 ECUs only allow FB1 adjustment. Dave
He (Seymore) is talking about '08. As he mentioned, some have upgraded to the '09 ECU. *edit* Or see the post above for more detailed info.
that's my understanding and... twincam FB1-2-3 settings only effect 09/10 with the o2 sensor in... and can also adjust CO1-2-3 settings in 09/10 which effects when o2 sensor out***pu'd
no conflict in there, the work you had is exactly as my description, it was for 08's, things have changed önly "a little" Still some confusion on the earlier bikes FB1,FB2,FB3 & the function/controls. My earlier (08-09) info is still correct Project 310 with full aftermarket ECU Even the current factory stuff is crazy, they should be giving you guys so much more. Lucky for the Husky world guys like Seymore, Kelly,George & Cafe Husky exist
I didn't know you were talking about an 08 in your original post- so when others were talking about 09-10s- your post confused me as I was learning what could be adjusted in my 09 and if what had been done on my bike had any effect in PU mode- so I asked for clarification- Seymore then told me you were to referring to your 08. its all covered in here now Yea many dealers are far behind where many on CafeHusky have led us
