250-500cc idle hang??? wont go away

2009 wr300
GG piston
stock exhaust
pwk 38as

im getting a idle hang and its pissing me off. so lets say i cruz down the trail at various rpm. pull in the clutch and it takes severl seconds to drop back down. sometimes 15 seconds. as far as the jetting goes it really doesnt matter because i have changed it so many times and nothing seems to fix it. i checked the reeds, compression, not buring trans oil. no air leaks that i can find. im so frustrated. i started with a 42/170 red needle 3 clip. i have adjusted it all the way to a 48 blue needle 3 pos.

Have you check to see if your throttle cable or carb is going down all the way if you adjust idle does it change. I had same problem on my Drz 400 after I changed carb and it was carb rubbing on frame not letting cable return all the way to idle stop.

yeah the cable is good and i have slack at the throttle. adjusting the idle screw does have an affect, but its way in there, so i think im going to start all over again tomorrow. run idle screw all the way out and start with a baseline jetting.

I'm just thinking out loud here, but let's say it is sucking air from the stator seal. Can I just seal the cover? Or can you make the stator a wet stator?

Loading up - sound like you are running rich. Did the GG piston change your compression? What type of fuel are you using and What is your fuel mix?

Yes it changed compression from 135-155. I put my jetting back to where I first started and sealed the drain hole on the ign cover. Temp if course but in theory this will tell me if the crank seal is leaking. If it is that seal it will use the air in the cover causing my hang, then the hang will go away because the will be a vac in the cover. I also gave a spare carb from a new Ktm as well, but not using that unless the problem is occurs. Truck is loaded and headed out. Braaaaaaaap

No go! I'm at 40 175 red clip 2. Jetting changes don't seem to affect it as far as I can tell. I haven't really messed with clip positions. Too much. Maybe I will try that. Here is a video. Bike is warm and the problem seems to get worse as the rpm's increase on the trail. If I stay 3/4 for say 20 sec it takes a tad longer to come down.

Iam thinking crank seals,air leak some place

But where? I sealed the ign cover to check the crank seal on that side. Reeds look good and the gasket. Maybe I will put new gaskets on there. I'm using a special trans oil so if it was burning it I would smell it. Where else can it leak from?

Could it be the timing? That had the cr ign but they put the wr ign back on. Maybe it is a c hair off?

Shoot a little ether round the base gasket. Sometimes you can blow them out or a piece and not know it. Shoot a little back behind your ignition around the seal, I also spray some in your gear case to see if the crank draws it past the seal and raises your RPM. Also spray it around your intake boot and reed cage.

Is your carb level? When it sits on the stand make sure it is level. I have seen carbs cocked a little hanging up a float and running out of gas, till it catches back up. You don't have an air lock in your fuel line? Or fuel line pinched causing less fuel to fill the carb? Just happened on the 06 and I had to turn the petcock around and use a little longer fuel line. It was too direct (Straight down to the carb) with the IMS tank. Any Vent tubes/hoses plugged? Usually that makes it run richer? You didn't bend the needle in the Pwk or lose the gasket in the top cap? Grab your flywheel, can you move it up or down or side to side? What color is your plug?

Float level?

I. Just don't get it. Messed with it for an hour. just checking all kinds if stuff. Moved clip from 2 to 5 still on red now. And remember just the other day I was on blue clip 3. Red 5 should be leaner than blue 3.

I. Just don't get it. Messed with it for an hour. just checking all kinds if stuff. Moved clip from 2 to 5 still on red now. And remember just the other day I was on blue clip 3. Red 5 should be leaner than blue 3.

If you have another carb you can try, I think it's time.

I think you are going the wrong way with the needle. Jetting is very simillar to mine 38 pilot 75 main. With red needle mine wont run well on 3rd clip, much better on 2nd with slight bog 1/2 throttle, and crisp/perfect on 1st. I'm certain mine wouldn't run on 5th. I was concerned about even trying on 1st but it runs so well I am reluctant to change even though I also have a CEL needle to try.

VIDEO
this was sunday
40 pilot
175 main
red needle 2nd clip


this was today moved clip to 5.
BTW check your kicker boot for water, and if you start the bike with the flywheel nut off and you didnt pull the washer be prepared to search for hours for it. yeah im an idiot.
40 pilot
175 main
red clip 5
it sounds better but the true test is a good ole beat down ride.

dartyppyt.. the carb is straight up and down, no lines pinched and they flow freely. i did not see a gasket on the screw cap for the carb?? the carb vent lines are clear, the needle is straight and i was very careful not to bend it. the float level i set at 14mm i think it was. according to the manual. the plug is a medium brown and dry with a tad of wetness on the threads. im going to change the plug again to test. i have been changing jets so much lately its not accurate. afterall i was riding the 45 for several hours. another odd thing is the bike starts first kick. hot or cold.

i was reading something about testing using the choke knob. anybody know what im talking about. if you pull the choke knob while running...
i have never used the choke on any of my bikes in hawaii.

If it is the PWK, up inside the screw cap is a round gasket, so when you screw the cap on it seals air tight. Go to Jets R Us and look at the exploded view up your carb.

I don't see anything out of the ordinary here.........what am i missing?