FE/FC Ignition map switch

I went here and bought the terminal ends for like $5 and made my own TPS tool.
http://cycleterminal.com

Do not change the TPS voltage on the "S" models. I have already seen one catastrophic failure from this modification.

Not too sure about doing this on non-S models either since the ignition timing is advanced beyond the +2.5° limit of the engine. I have already created new mapping for the non-S models on top of the EU map, which I found to be insufficient by itself. Today I created PCV maps for "S" model 501's. The 501s which I tested had just as much power and out performs the standard non-S models.

Thanks for trying that. It's possible mine is working, but the change is so subtle I'm not always feeling a noticeable difference. Now that I understand it must come to idle before changing modes, I'll go test it out one more time this weekend.

Am I confused or what? You have a 501S the switch won't work on that due to the map isn't it? Switch only works on EU map and the S model can't be remapped. !?!?
You need a PCV with Tinken's map in it to get full go!

Will the pcv for the 2015 fe501 fit the 501s model? I don't see why not but just want to make sure.

Pretty cool you made a map for it in spite of some of us not being able to flash EU maps.

Yes, there is a PCV for both S models 350s and 501s. The PCV does not change the ignition, dynojet knows how sensitive it is on these engines and excluded it from their units. Ty and I rode the 501s after remapping with the pcv. Super smooth power and no throttle lag or deacel popping. I'm getting better results from pcv tuning than tuning the ecu's on non S models.

Yes, you are confused or my prior posts are just confusing perhaps. Sorry. Here is an update now that I've worked through it some more.

No, the Trail Tech 3-way (standard/mild/wild) switch does work on the "S" model as long as the computer is mapped with the EU map. The problem is that results are only subtle with off-idle change for the first 1/4 throttle. It is working for me but I did not realize it had to come to IDLE speed before the map switch takes effect when changing to another mode. I ran Power Commanders/PCV on all of my street bikes but won't be running one on my Husqvarna dirt bike, no need once remapped with the TT switch. Update: It is working, I'm just being overly picky I guess expecting a dramatic change between modes. This is not the case, it's very mild as I've learned now. I rode my buddies new 501S with EU map only and my bike is definitely softer than his when I set the TT switch to mild mode in comparison. I've been trying to make my new Husky as soft as my former Beta carb'd bike that I had finely tuned. I'm closer now, but it required me to add a G2 throttle tube in addition to remap to take more of the off-idle hit out. The stock Husky 501 throttle tube / cable twist has a shorter throw (than Im use to) and that is a separate issue regardless of map or add-on computers used. Fine tuning throttle cams now. The #cam400 might even be a tad too slow off bottom now, so I may go back in the reverse direction to get it spot on. Simple: remap, add switch, fine tune with correct throttle cam preference, then done. No add-on fuel or other piggy-back ignition modifiers required. My buddy got his remapped and he thinks his is fine with no switch or throttle tube, so preferences may vary and I'm overly picky but getting it as I need it.

@decooney, just an fyi, the Trail Tech 3 way switch does not change the fuel maps, it changes the ignition curve maps, adding or subtracting timing to your engine. This is why the change is barely noticeable at 1/4 throttle. This is also why it is very dangerous to add additional timing by advancing the tps.

One of the issues with the 501's (both S and non-S models) is that there is insufficient fuel delivery from 0-2% throttle. On non-S models, this area can be adjusted within the ecu, however it is not as responsive with Ktm programming as it is with Dynojet's. Think of the fuel that squirts in on a FCR or Holley carburetor when you hit the pumper, this is what most efi lacks and is what is causing the issues. Trying to tune it out on the mapping helps, but doesn't fully cure the problem. Most of the time it just makes the issue worse by over flooding the engine during a hot start up. KTM has added an accel pump feature to their programming, but removed this ability from the S models due to emissions, hence the need for pcv.

Also, if you decide to go the pcv route, I will be more than happy to program it for you, even if you purchase it elsewhere, not trying to interject sales.

What is the voltage value or range the factory recommends the TPS should be at on a stock 2015 501s?

Seems I have read that number somewhere, but no can find now...

I have the tool to read TPS Voltage, but haven't adjusted it yet. After reading the above I'm thinking I'd better just "blueprint" it, so to speak.
Thx

Thanks for the offer. I programmed all of my former PCVs on prior bikes with maps for my area with maps from dynos and elevation/air temp considerations, etc. In this case, I went ahead and did the reprogrammed ECU with Euro map. I understand the IGN curve is not for fuel. It helps mildly with the switch, as you noted. Agree. So far, in combination with the remap and switch it actually works quite well and the big 510cc engine in this bike is doing exactly what it's suppose to do now, starts perfectly, no off-idle stalls or anything. I did add the G2 throttle tube to help slow the roll-on a bit for slick mud rides. It is very responsive and if anything I would want to tame the fuel curve some but might go in with a few guys and buy the KTM selector tool so I can program everything directly on the ECU, including TPS, and other things. It would be nice to have switchable fuel maps of course. Thanks.

Hey Tinken, what year did ktm add the accelerator feature to their ecu programming?

I'm not sure, but I can confirm that it is on the 2014-15 ecus. Ktm tool does not load on "S" model ecu's, functionality is locked out. 2015+ "S" models now have map upgrade function locked out as well.

I believe my 350 stock tps is .58 and I'm currently at .61 anything more and it doesn't like it, but don't have a clue on the 501.

Did you try all the plugs? Mine has at least two plugs open near the ecu. Mine fit fine. Tail tech version with integrated kill switch.

Got a call back from Sicass racing. He said it sounds like I was trying to plug it into the CanBus connection. It was horizontal in the airbox through a slot. He sent me a few pictures to my house email that I could see on m y my Iphone also. Thanks a bunch.
This is a picture of the KTMs and its location right next to the fuse box and says it plugs in vertically, right next to it. So I was apparently messing with the wrong plug.

I need to get home after work and dig into it again to find it I guess. Its black not white. The instructions were for a aluminum subframed Husaberg. The KTM pictures are too he sent me. He said he wasn't exactly sure where the plug is at on the Huskys. It may be tucked away somewhere else.

So I think my problem is soon to be solved. Or will be as soon as I get home.

Thanks for the help and response "reveille" I'll find it. This plug I was messing with, the Canbus, which it won't run with out and it does clip up under the airbox lid . Is so similar to how they do the power up plug on my G450X engine I guess I was fixated on trying to figure it out with out looking any further. It was the only 2 prong plug I had seen at first.

Tim, Read the damned manual or look it up on the CD repair disc... Ok. So I'm a Stupid ass Rummy.

Haha, ya you definitely have the wrong plug. Easy fix, it's better than dealing with a return. I'm dealing with Hammerhead right now. Poor customer care. They sent me the wrong lever. I ordered a +15 and they sent me a +10. I needed a lever so I used it yesterday, now they tell me I'm screwed since I used it. They offered to sell me another one for 5% off, ooohhh what a deal. Stewing am I...

Hey keep the shifter and buy the longer +20mm offset folding pedal tip to replace it with. Less than half the price.

I like my +15mm shifter a lot better than the stock length then again I didn't even ride the bike with the stock shifter on it. I just got another pair of Alpine stars today sitting on the porch to replace my old cheap Answer racing dirt riding boots. They sucked.

These new Alpine stars are still brand new with the care manual and stickers. They may have been tried on maybe once in a store. Bought em on Ebay last week for 82.00 + 20.00 shipped. I haven't tried em on yet. They're size 12s. Not one scuff or mark even on the soles. Still unused in the box. Full welted soles and metal tips not molded soles like a pair of running shoes. I hate those kind of boots.

Got the wiring harness done, Map switch is insane in wild mode. HOLY S#!T!! This thing is insane. Those who say they can't feel the difference are missing something? Try changing out the entire exhaust system for one. This thing will crack 4th and 5th gear power stands easy on pavement.

I left the light pull switch connected with the lighting kit so I can shut it all down when I'm getting chased by the cops or BPs for doing wheelies in the sub darkness on evening rides coming back home.. LOL !! It even shuts down the brake light even though its hooked up when the stock lighting pull switch is pushed off or down. Gotta love that feature.

I Left off the horn. Don't need it. I think my Bulldogge Harley got that section of the harness off the floor of my garage and hid it cause I can't find it maybe its in the mess of having 2 bikes now. I need to build a bigger house over where my shop is a few blocks away and move back over there. Maybe I lost it in the mess. I remember taking it off the connections of the horn itself when taking that weight off the wire harness. while un_packaging the damned thing. It'll turn up, but I will get the bike registered and the plates Friday. So screw the horn.

Cool trick in the instructions with the banjo fitting. Lifted the bike on the center stand and put a zip tie snuggly around the brake pedal and pushed it down and tied it off depressed to the center lift. Pulled the top one of the 2 bolts of the master cylinder, leaned it back a little and retightened it leaning back so I could get to the fitting easier. Pulled the stock banjo bolt with a 12 MM socket and cleaned the bottom washer and reinstalled the new switch banjo bolt with a box end wrench after slipping the wires and small connector plug right through the box end. It goes right down over the plug and wires. Tightened it up good and reinstalled the other master cylinder bolt after straightening it back up again. Then cut the zip tie holding the pedal down and didn't even have to pump the brake pedal once to have full rear brake control again. No bleeding necessary.


She's all legal now, just need to get the plates and registration for it.

It sounds like I need to road trip it to AZ and go ride with you Timmy. You have any vacation time handy? I just sold my 2003 f250 and bought a Ford escape. I installed an oem hitch for my bike hauler mount.(STORY WITH THAT LOL) 31 mpg is a big difference from 12 mpg.

I have 250+ hours Annual leave on the books right now. I can only carry over 240 into next year. I have a guy from Arivaca AZ and his buddy Ashley from South Africa, who's now living in Phoenix, Ashley is a good friend of CH member "BiGDoM" who is from South Africa also. Ashleys brother is a friend of Doms. Ashleys, planning a trip and coming soon for a border ride trip.
I'm Finishing up a big job this month and taking some time off right away. I can't very well do it now, because I run the crew on this job but they sure have taken their share of days off.

My bosses tell me "don't abuse these guys" as some have come into this job to help out by volunteering from other Sectors.

I tell them its too late for that.. LOL..

Well, at least they have clothes on...