All 2st Increasing oil = increased compression?

Probably as good a reason as any. Used to use Redline because it was easy to get here (did not get the spooge that Motosportz reports). It smelled pretty cool! Now I use Bel-Ray becuse the distributor sponsors my son. It don't smell nearly as good!

To try answer your original question, maybe a richer oil mixture might help seal a bit better at very low RPM and aid in increased compression for starting. At higher engine speeds I honestly don't think it would make much difference. I have personally found a bit less wear when I use a richer oil mixture, as I mentioned earlier. This would be an indication of less friction and, all other things being equal, a teensy bit more HP for that reason.

Is this another oil thread?

I run my stuff at 200:1, because oil's expensive and I cannot afford to put more in.

Sorry, No they're not.

No, It has to with engine flow velocity and oil migration. Higher RPM = faster Oil migration. The faster oil moves through the engine the more oil you need. That is why a 125 needs more oil than a 500

Got Crude?

I am now set up to test all the premix everyone is talking about and will be able to report back on the results and maybe smells. Please sent me all your unwanted premix and gearbox oil for testing as it will help keep my toes warm. Thank you.

Care to explain a bit more?

Prior to 1988, before the API classification for 2-stroke oils I'd be inclined to agree with you. Also, since 1994 the more stringent JASO M345 classification came into effect. Both of these are continuously updated to keep pace with both requirements and advances in oil technology.

So, are you saying there is a huge difference between any two JASO FD oils? Or that two API TC+ rated oils could be a different as night and day?

Or are you saying that a non-rated oil, like some $1.25 quart blue-goo marked "2-Stroke Oil" at the local discount store is not the same as Bel-Ray H1r?

Just curious...

Cool! Oh, maybe Hot!

JASO is just a minimum rating not nessessarily the best for racing. Different base stocks are used. Some heavier, Some lighter. Some Petroleum based , Some Synthetic, Some Vegetable. No, Oils are not the same. Infact there are several different type synthetic base stocks. Ester, Pao, and Group III (which is not a true synthetic). Different levels of refinement in Petroleum basestocks. Different additive packages. Some oils have higher flash points that others. Some will clog a spark arrestor in short order and other will burn clean. The oil that may suffice for a light usage street or play bike might not hold up under the stress of racing. You can use any oil you want but I will use one that is designed for the stresses of Racing.

seeing as how i answered the OP 2 pages ago...

Back off topic:

i've yet to see a turbine-type SA clogg. ever.

screen type? yup. spooge and trail dust cloggs those in hours. on any bike. those are uber-lame and went by the wayside back in the 90's!

i've been using valvoline, chevron, whom-ever's bargain random 2-cycle oil in 5-qt jugs in my buddies 1993 YZ WR 250- cuz that's all he'll pop for. some of the stuff actually stinks like cat pee when ya open it.

i garan-damn-tee that bike is faster than most bikes here, mine included by a bunch. it's stone stock motorwise since new in 1993, it's houred out years ago, but, still flat rips and is faster than 90% of the new bikes on the trail. i've pulled the pipe, showed him the brown piston in there, told him it needs changing but, "eh, still runs fine, one more ride".

the high-zoot oils? never seen his motor, once. and that engine has been running for what, only 17 years now?

guys- pick any modern oil. jet your bike to the ratio you choose then, get on with life. seriously.

Are you playing or racing ? Sure you can use that stuff but I doubt any serious racer would be using it. I have put that stuff in my mild tuned 70's enduro bikes with autolube. Play riding is not as stressful as racing even if you are playing hard.
Seriously why are you using your buddies oil ? You don't buy your own ?
Sure you can use it in a tight but why would you want to on a regular basis ?

If it is a cost issue try Suzuki CCI, mix at 20:1 , costs about $4-5 per qt. Works good, burns clean. We used to use it in our factory bikes.

Vin- trust me, these rides are race pace. it was to prove a point in the extreme, see my final thought on my last post. pick any modern oil (perhaps i should have specified racing two-stroke, as most say "racing" on the bottle")...etc.

eggsachary! when he first got it he dragged me on a 89 cr500 and won! i was like WTF? it's stupid scary in the tight stuff...braaap! woah, weeee!

No, He states he is using his buddies oil.
"i've been using valvoline, chevron, whom-ever's bargain random 2-cycle oil in 5-qt jugs in my buddies 1993 YZ WR 250- cuz that's all he'll pop for. some of the stuff actually stinks like cat pee when ya open it. " PVduke

At least that is what I get from that statement. Am I misunderstanding ? Anyway whom ever is using that oil should buy something else instead of outboard motor oil. I once knew a guy who swore he used only WESSON Vegtable oil in his CR. Said is smelled like fried chicken ? I wasn't sure whether to believe him or not but others told me that was the truth. BUT, He was a play rider and not a racer. I also think he had to rebuild his engine on a regular basis too.

PV, You mean there is tight riding in SoCal ???????
LOL

Vin- i wrench for my freinds. i put in thier bikes what they tell me too.

i use motul 710 2t, personally.

again- was making a point in the extreme.

oh yeh, ya gotta search but, yepper, there's tight stuff here that'll have your goggles steaming, yer bashy knackered and yer tires cut up. so cal aint got much in the way of super tight trees that is leagal anymore. up north a few hours from me there is.