I kinda think once you get the mapping sorted out the plugs become less of an issue. I ordered a set of Iridium plugs for mine but mostly for longevity and reliability of spark. I recently tried a set in my Stelvio and I "think" it's a tad smoother at lower throttle settings but it might be wishful thinking, not positive and hard to prove. It seems like for the LC2 install, if a single resistor with a rugged heatsink built in could be used it would simplify the installation quite a bit. I don't know if something like this can be found in a suitable resistance range.
When I did my search I found several like you are showing Dan. It was just that I had a Radio Shack near me, so the purchase of the 8 resistors was easier and had a shorter wait.
I'm a big fan of Iridium plugs. Totally eliminated Plug fouling on the Ural and almost seemed to help the same fueling problem we have on the TR, tip-in stall/hesitate, on my XR1200! I had a fueler on that thing and kept a full chart on settings. Damn thing would still stall out trying to leave a stoplight whenever it felt like it! My TR runs like a dream in comparison. You don't want a stumble when making a right turn on a 595 pound turd!
I find the place (Inbox or avatar) where it's supposed to be done, but find no button to send my message to you
DRZCharlie Amazing work on the LC2. Followed all on adv and here. Do you have a wiring diagram. I want to get it right when I try this.
I would appreciate receiving the settings you used and, like rdreyer, a wiring diagram, if you have it. I've tried a number of different things so far and the best has been the WukaKing on my Strada. I've tried the Wiseco fuel controller and now the AFX-IED on my Terra, but still haven't found the magic that you seem to have found with the LC2. Thanks, John
Keep in mind that this is a fairly technically challenging project (if you've not worked with electronic components). You've seen some of my chart postings I assume. I have to ask a few questions (not trying to belittle anyone) to insure you don't spend $200 and can't get a decent result from the installation. Also keep in mind that wideband 02 sensors can come out of adjustment and you will have to re-set them and rei-install your parameters again. This may cause your ECU to adjust once again to the settings you have input. 1. Do you understand what you are seeing on the charts? 2. Can you with confidence say that you are good at soldering and circuit building? 3. Do you understand schematic drawings As I said above I am not trying to belittle anyone by asking these questions but if you delve into this and get stuck you are kinda out there in the wind. As far as "finding the magic", well yes and no. Does it make the bike extremely reliable and a pleasure to ride? Unequivocally and enthusiastically yes. It is it the best solution? IMHO at the moment the LC2 and the Power Commander V seem to be getting the job done quite nicely. Does it use more fuel? Yes, I am adding 7% more fuel to the engine, the question is, can you live with that? Some cite piston head carbon collections, others cite too much fuel used. Others cite it operates in closed loop and should drop out somewhere into open loop. What can you live with? Like anything else motorcycle related there is always a compromise. You have to choose what that will be. As you said the Wuka King has worked for many and continues to do so. I tried it and it worked, for a while. I tried the AF-XIED and it worked well. I think if I were technically challenged I would have kept it installed and increased the settings to 8 or 9. That would essentially fuel the bike to near 7%. Where the "magic" comes in is when you are able to manipulate the lambda settings and find what feels right to you. The real answers of course will come when and if the hex codes are broken on our ECU's. The GS911 Device is ostensibly on the way for this ECU it can now only parse VIN numbers according to what Magoo has posted. Once those codes can be read, then we can begin developing changes to ECU behaviour. For me, the LC2 is the best option but that is only my opinion. Danketchpel is having great success with the Power Commander and his settings are becoming more dialed in. You might want to read his stuff on ADV. I guess my whole impetus of this lengthy post is to make you aware of the various solutions, the potential pitfalls and sort them out to a solution that works best for you.
I am getting a lot of pm's and emails regarding this installation. So I have added a section toward the bottom of my installation guide to help guide you through the wiring process. If you are thinking of doing the LC2 install please check here: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=25112862&postcount=90
Great work as always, thank you Have attached the following diagram, may help explain the wiring colours on our sensor.
Fuse 4 - Lambda sensor fuse 7.5A I have had a look at the wiring diagram for the bike and noted that fuse 4 is for the Lambda sensor. It provides power to the O2 sensor then back to the ecu, Pin 7 G1 Sensor Lambda - heater control. Does the heater controller run all the time or only during initial start up then turns off when the engine reaches temp? As this is the heater circuit, can this fuse be "pulled" so that you don't need to build the resistor load circuit that connects to the two white wires at the O2 sensor harness? I have run my bike with this fuse pulled with no engine fault light coming on. However I would expect the ecu has logged a fault code which will show up on the MOSS tool diagnosis. Any feedback on this would be greatly appreciated, especially if it means that it negates the need to build the resistor load circuit.
Have attached pages from the workshop manual: 225 wiring diagram abs version - W619457 225.pdf 226 wiring diagram non abs - W619457 226.pdf 227 and 228 key to diagram - W619457 227.pdf W619457 228.pdf
John, On the AF-XIED, Did you try settings from 5-9 and let each run for a couple tanks? If you did your results suggest something else going on with your bike. Big-t (on advrider) measured the AF-XIED with an LM-2 (same function as LC-2) and demonstrated that LC-2 and AF-XIED. There really isn't any reason that you won't get the same results for LC-2 or AF-XIED. The reason I helped Charlie do the LC-2 was so that we could measure the results of lambda-shifting.
Geeza, I suggest that for the best result you follow Charlie's outline. The ECU on your bike wants to verify the load of the O2 sensor as a means to know the sensor is there and working. The other thing about the Wideband is that as much as it is great to do the datalogging (and I really like the feature), the LC-1 and LC-2 require calibration, and care and feeding of its software (bugs do surface). So far, the Wideband sensor itself though has been fine, just issues with the controller. Also, Innovate now says they don't support Closed Loop installations but they were helpful when I called them years ago. I wouldn't let price be the issue, if you want to experiment get the LC-2. If you want a bulletproof, plug 'n play solution, get the AF-XIED.
Finally found some time to install the LC2. Big thanks to Charlie and Roger for the guidance and posts. Opted to locate the LC2 in the tail section, fair amount of room in there once the wiring is "adjusted". Will add a pic later, placed the LC2 in a project box to keep it dry and ran its wiring down both sides of the bike. Used a 50W 150 Ohm thick film power resistor for the O2 heater circuit. Add this heater loom to the earth and signal loom I made, heat shrink into one loom and fitted a waterproof 4 pin plug on the end. This plugs into the bike O2 sensor loom which feeds to the ECU. To do this I cut the oem plug off the bike loom and fitted the plug to match the new loom above.
I used the 3ft sensor cable from innovate and ran this down the left hand side of the bike along with the signal and earth loom I made. I used the left hand side to keep the wiring away from the bikes oem loom and spark plug coils to reduce electromagnetic interference. The signal wire connects to the LC2 brown wire, the earth direct to the battery and the LC2 black wire. The LC2 power is taken from the fused and switched light circuit. Placed the heater circuit resistor next to the radiator, that innovate harness plug is massive and hard to integrate into the bike. Have run the bike - yes it started first time - I am as amazed as you and the resistor gets warm but not stupid warm. Under the seat, tried to keep it looking neat and original. Just need to get my stupid computer to talk to the serial cable then I can program the LC2. Once again thank you to the forum and in particular Charlie and Roger for the inspiration to do this mod.
Geeze, That's a really nice job. I have have you do my wiring! Let us know how it goes. I'll check my PM.
13.8:1 appears to be the sweet spot for this bike, see my post in making the dog run as it should http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/making-the-dog-run-as-it-should.50630/page-5
