Installing and Tuning Rekluse RMS-856 into 2009 TE610

Discussion in '610/630' started by Stolenfant, Dec 9, 2012.

  1. ESP Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Burtonsville, MD
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2006 TE610
    Other Motorcycles:
    2008 KTM 300XC-We; 1993 Harley FLSTC
    I am sitting in a hotel in Port Orford, OR as I type this. My Rekluse equipped Husky 2006 TE610 started in Bristol, TN, went to Tellico Plains, TN (via the Tail of the Dragon) and cross country on the Trans America Trail. The Rekluse performed great. I changed the oil in Salida Co and it came out clean (Redline 20w-50). One thing I learned with setting the idle on the Husky is that you have to ride it for at least half an hour before you set it. The bike takes a long time to reach full operating temperature. I initially had my idle set too high and that caused some abrupt engagement when the bike was hot and you let out the clutch.

    My thoughts
    1. Clutch cable woes are a thing of the past.
    2. Clutch pull is feather light.
    3. I use the clutch to get going and to manually feather at times. I usually up/downshift without the clutch.
    4. Rekluse makes a little noise when cold. Especially with my heavy TAT baggage and me. Works great when warmed up.
    5. The Rekluse did not seem happy (made noises) when I was hammering it through the Tail of the Dragon. So I would probably not "race" the bike with a Rekluse (but remember I was fully loaded with 100 lbs of gear and 230 lbs of myself). I was trying to be smooth and most likely had the Rekluse a gear too high for the conditions.
    6. The clutch took a good 500 miles to fully break in and smooth out (that might have had something to do with #5)
    7. On the TAT, in the correct gear for the conditions the Rekluse was AWESOME. If you were two or more gears higher than you should, the bike lugged (but still pulled, just not very efficiently)
    8. Engine braking worked great. If the rpms were high enough (over 1600), the engine braked. I could pull in the clutch, let the bike idle and then have no engine braking. Then if I needed engine braking again, I just blipped the throttle to get the rpm up again, and engine braking resumed.
    9. In my head, I was always worried about motor torque and clutch slippage. I tried not to lug the motor at any time. I always tried to keep the rpms at least 3600, so I was sure to have good engagement. I am not sure how it would like hypermileing at low rpms in a higher gear.
    10. Neutral is a PITA to ry to find while the motor is running. Shut it off and it goes right in. There is no creep when I am stopped in 1st gear and the bike is idling.
    11. The bike always starts easier in neutral. Even with the clutch pulled in, if the bike is in gear the starter drags a little.

    Anyway, that was my experience. Yours may vary. Remember Rekluse does NOT make this clutch specifically for a 610, so the risk is all yours if you decide to try it. If you want to see the type of riding the TAT puts a clutch through, there is a ride report on ADV (TAT 2013- I'm just saying)
    xymotic likes this.