All 2st It lives!

Good to know, at the moment they are both set at dead middle. Not expecting too much from the stockers but will play with the settings along the way. I'm stoked to finally know what all the fuss about these 360 motors is about. Great low-end lugging, you can practically motor along on idle. Mine also has quite a hit once on pipe which if I'm being honest is why I prefer 2-strokes.

The 312 is a nice unit I'm realizing, and yes, I do believe it came stock. The PO made no mention of swapping it. The more I dig into this early-ish Italian Husky the more I'm realizing how well made it is and the nice design/engineering details it features.

Dauer mate...made this ages ago

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lor_q8we3wU&index=1&list=PLgcEICCfj51tMqRyXldxU9Oi-AX4TX22o

Thanks for that. After logging a decent amount of starting practice the past few days I've adopted the technique you've posted, seems to work well. Definitely a bit of a ritual to starting these I'm learning. As previously mentioned countless times a lectron would surely help the cause...someday.

the only time mine ever kicks back is when i dont kick it hard enough..mikuni or lectron. starting is the same with both..for me

Same with mine.

Duly noted, a firm kick is definitely on order if I want my 360 to start.

now im just talking about the italian 360...if the timing is off the 430 will bite whether you do it right or not!! it does like a proper kick as well tho.

Smashed my knee into bars on more than one occasion on 02 360, timings not changed an thats with big boy kicking

Fit up an auto de-compressor system and it will be
like starting a 80cc. I have one fitted to my '96 360 and '10 300. The closest thing to electric start you can get.

Ive got a head with de comp in it, its not compression thats the issue.
Sometimes she just hungers for knees.

Any chance of a photo or two of your 300 auto de-comp Huskymack ?

It just occurred to me after reading a few threads regarding flywheel installation: Should I have used lapping compound on the flywheel? Neither the powerdynamo manual nor husky manual make a mention of it. I torqued the flywheel to spec and am not experiencing any issues but I haven't had the chance to really put the bike through it's paces. The powerdynamo ignition is similar to the PVL in the respect that it forgoes the use of a woodruff key to set timing. I understand that the key's purpose is only to set timing and not prevent the flywheel from spinning. Would like to hear the opinions of you more experienced, knowledgeable folks on the subject?

If your not using the woodruff key lap it in.
Personally ive never lapped my flywheel in, I've yet to have a problem.

I would want as much surface area contact as possible if your keyless.

what difference would the key make? it supports no weight..if it does it shears.

wouldnt hurt taking it off and doing it, checking your torque you did last time and setting timing again. all good practice i suppose!
off course on the air cooled ones we have no head gasket, and the heads are lapped too!

it will likely be fine if your crank stub is excellent and you have it torqued properly, but i try to prep for reliability!

Agreed, I guess it's one of those better safe than sorry situations. The condition of the crank taper looked fine and I torqued it per manual spec but as you mentioned it's valuable practice. In addition I'll sleep soundly at night. Thanks once again for the advice guys.

The key justin holds the flywheel located while you hang on the nut!
So you can really hang on the nut.

So probably dont need to lap it in.
But no key lap it in, how do you keep the crank and flywheel located when your tightening it up as you hold the flywheel and rotate the nut...?

From the Powerdynamo installation manual: "Take the woodruff key from the crank. You will not need it anymore. Please do not forget to do so, otherwise you will have trouble later on in the assembly. This woodruff key does not hold the rotor on the shaft, this is done by the cone. It simply guides to the correct setting which will now be otherwise achieved."

Regarding holding the flywheel while torqueing the nut. I set the piston to 1mm BTDC (factory timing), then aligned the timing mark on the stator plate with the timing mark on the rotor. I pressed the rotor on the taper with a good bit of force to seat it, I used a rotor holder to keep the rotor in place while torqueing the nut down to 60ft/lb. I then reconfirmed the piston position and timing mark alignment to ensure the rotor hadn't rotated on the crank. All was kosher dill pickle. However, I do agree that it won't hurt anything to lap it in and plan on doing so.

when timing without a key, i just give the mag a few taps with a soft deadblow mallet to seat where i want it then tighten

lapping will give a nice witness mark where both parts fit..you will get confirmation that the flywheel bore is the same angle as the crank stub. should have a nice light gray band where its lapped after cleaning it all back up

Makes sense to me. Thanks Justin and thanks to all the other helpful folks on this indispensable forum.