My JD programmer works great (09 SM510). I had issues with bucking during off/on throttle transitions and steady throttle situations caused surging. I knew the bike was lean in the low end. Once I got the programmer on and added fuel in the green (cruise) mode, it helped out a bunch. Increasing the green mode range, by adjusting the yellow/blue mode allowed me to fine tune the transition into the midrange and the bike runs great! Between the programmer settings and adjusting the air bypass screw I was also able to play with the amount of engine braking during decel.
This is a great tool to dial in your A/f ratio for your EFI it is what we use it is a innovate motorsports LC-1 air fuel set up that goes on your bike so you can read air fuel ratio in real time
I got mine from innovate motor sports it is a LC-1 here is a link http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/xcart/home.php?cat=273 it takes the guess work out of dialing in air fuel Good luck Tech 3
Tech 3, did the bracket come with the unit you bought from Innovate Motorsports? Any other pictures of how you wired it up? I'm planning on getting one.
I made the bracket from a piece of aluminum the hook up is a piece of cake Hot wire to on off switch ground to frame and that is it i will take some shots and post them it's a great tool for dialing in carb and F/I
I have a 630 SMS. If I roll off the throttle and roll back on when the engine is at anything lower than 3000 rpm, my bike really shudders until it gets to above 3000 rpm. Is this something that can be fixed or minimized if I buy the JD unit, or is it something that is just a characteristic of the motor? My only other bike was a v-twin so maybe i'm just used to a more balanced engine.
Thanks Tech 3! Rocko, my bike (2011 TE630) does the same thing under 3,000 rpm. I have a 14 tooth front sprocket, power up kit, twin Leo slip-on pipes, MT21 rear tire, JD fuel injection tuner and modded air box. The engine will not bog or stall but will feel "funny" under 3,000 rpm on the street. Keep your drive chain within specs as that will help with chatter and vibration. My engine does like to run from 3k - 8k on the road. Good luck!
Did a pretty gnarly ride at Walker Valley today with a lot of technical stuff. Good opportunity to check the entire rpm range under different loads. Pulls hard and clean in the 5k plus range, just the way these little 250's like. No issues under that range, just not a lot of torque to be had down there. The only pop and dies I experienced were due to operator error. Got to be covering that clutch in the nasty stuff or Pop! Good times!
Tech 3, I got the Innovate Motorsports LC-1 hooked up this weekend. I also have a JD tuner installed. What kind of readings are you getting? When the engine is off I get a reading of 22.1. The idle jumps a bit from high 11's and 12.9. I think its accurate assuming I wired it correctly. I grounded everything to the same post JD recommended. The Output wire to tune the device is not compatible with my laptop. In fact I stopped at Radio Shack, Best Buy and Staples to look for an adapter. None of the stores had one available. I'm going to contact Innovate Motorsports today. I think the factory defaults will work for now.
con grats on your new unit the idle A/F in the 11's to 12 is where mine is at idle. i think it is on the rich side i would like to see it in the high 13's at idle I don't have a ibeat yet but from what i can see i can improve things ounce i am able to do some tweaking. you will have a ball with your A/F unit and your JD unit you should be able to get it perfect for your set up keep us up to date with what numbers you find.
I think I get the idea, but tell me if I'm wrong: So basically the goal of tuning your bike is to make sure that the A/F ratio is at the optimal number throughout the rev range. The factory fuel map may not result in the optimal A/F ratio for the conditions you ride in. Therefore adding something like the JD jetting unit can help solve that issue. Also, changing things such as removing the airbox baffle, getting a different exhaust, etc will change the A/F ratio. So if you make any of those changes to the hard parts, you will need to adjust your A/F again. If this is correct, shouldn't you be able to just put the hard parts you want on it once, set up the fueling with the JD jetting unit using a exhaust sniffer that is giving you realtime A/F ratio, and then never change the JD settings again? Seems like if you just mod once you should've have to keep changing your fueling. If I understand correctly, it sounds like if I get the JD unit, take it to a mechanic that can give me A/F ratios real time, I can tune the bike by just revving the bike at different ranges and then change the JD settings until I'm getting the perfect A/F ratio. What do you guys think? I can see how the real time A/F unit would be helpful if you mod a lot or are changing elevations or not.
You pretty much have it down with the exception of just revving the bike, it has to be under a load to get a real useful reading thats why you would want to use a dyno to provide the load while you monitor air fuel or use a A/F mixture gage so you can see the air fuel ratio while you are riding the bike under different loads and gears then you can tweak the JD unit or the ibeat or the pcv what ever you use.The other reason we run a air fuel gage all the time is because you can also tell if one of your sensors goes bad or your throttle position sensor goes bad or your fuel pump acts up you can tell many things about your motor by monitoring your air fuel. The bad thing about a sniffer that goes in the muffler is a thumper will suck and blow and the sniffers we use to use would tend to give a false lean reading there is no substitute for putting the O2 sensor mid stream in the mid pipe where the orginal O2 sensor went. Hope this is useful.
Rocko i wish there was a magic number but the way I've seen it go is like this We had a guy come in and wanted his air fuel set up at 13.4 across the board and i asked him why 13.4 and he said cause lean is mean so i said if your bike makes the most power at 12.9 you still want me to set it up at 13.4 he said well no, what i am trying to say is there is a lot of things that come into play i have seen some bikes make the most power in the hi 12's and others in the mid to hi 13's it is hard to tell unless you have access to a dyno and then the dyno does not take into consideration wind resistance hills and other real world stuff but the good news is it seems to me with a good air fuel gage and a JD unit that you can adjust on the fly there's your dyno. ride the bike see what the numbers are and according to the butt dyno tweak it from there play with the numbers and see which number pulls the hardest which number gives you the most crisp throttle response the bike will tell you. Don't go crazy lean you will melt things make little changes and see what they do, make a note of what your air fuel gage tells you it will probably be in the low to mid 13's but like NASA says one test is worth a thousand opinions it's not rocket science and it is fun to set up your own bike ounce you get into it you will soon be a pro I talked to the people at JD Jetting today what a great unit adjust on the fly with out a computer sure beats pulling carbs changing pilot and main and leak jets and needle's how lucky are we. Rock on Rocko.
Tech 3, I did some testing last night. To my surprise from 1/8 to 1/4 throttle at low speed the DB gauge was quite rich at 10-11+. I leaned out the green zone on my JD tuner and brought it up to a 12-13+ range depending on throttle position. It's my understanding that low speed and light loads don't require a rich setting. Is this correct? As you stated above there is no magic number for all bikes. I'm not sure what is typical with your experience on EFI "thumpers." From 50% throttle and up I was seeing around 13-13.4 which is good.
Awesome info, thanks for the help! Hopefully I will be tuning soon! My understanding is that going to rich you're just wasting fuel but going to lean and you're creating excessive heat which can do damage. So it sounds like upper 13's is where things start getting too lean?
Sounds like you have a handle on it 1/8 to 1/4 at 10 and 11's is too rich ,since you leaned it out how's your throttle response it should be crisp, and also at 1/8 to 1/4 is usually where you are at cruse speeds so you should see a increase in your fuel millage, keep me posted on how you are doing you will have that EFI perfect now that you have the tools.
Rocko you got that right too rich you waste fuel not to mention more carbon build up on the top end and around the rings i would not recommend the upper 13's other than at idle, most big thumpers don't idle very good that lean but you will find your number let me know how things turn out.
