Thanks Tech3 for the call. Cant wait to post up the riding results after getting my base line all in order! HUGE help buddy!!
Hey folks - If the TPS on your bike was originally calibrated for the spark arrestor OUT, will it make a big difference if you put the spark arrestor back IN without re-calibrating the TPS? Can that be sorted out via the JD Jetting Power Surge or will it still have issues with getting the best power through the rpm range... FYI - I have a 2010 TE250 Thanks in advance!
So I have began playing with my brand new 11 TE250 finally and the truth is I can't believe how terrible this thing runs. It is an anemic down low and idles like a harley, farts and stalls with the slightest blip of the throttle. It surges at a steady 1/8 throttle. This is with the JD tuner . I almost had the bike boil over I played with it so much with no success. What a load of bullshit to go through to get a brand new bike running. I'm the laughing stock of all my riding buddies who have seen this thing in action.
The-Dude is correct, TPS, or Throttle Position Sensor, is just that, it senses the throttles position so the ECU can apply proper ignition timing Ect. It has nothing to do with richining or leaning out of the fuel mixture due to changes in the exhaust. Sorry to hear of your trouble. I have to ask even though you stated you have the JD Tuner, Is it Powered Up and de-restricted? If not that will cause all the problems you describe. How many miles/ hours on it? I ask because with Husky they are known to have very tight engines when new and run a little rough till loosened up with some time on it. Other than that theirs a good chance your TPS, or throttle hard stop that affects the TPS is not calibrated properly and can only be done with Huskys Ibeat computer program that either your dealer has or you can purchase. Also sorry to hear your dissatisfied with the bottom end power, I wouldent describe mine as "anemic" but its definitely not its strong point witch has been well acknowledged and documented in magazines and public forums alike. Good luck in getting it close to where you want it.
OK, those are similar to my "recommended" JD settings also (2010 TE 310 ). Took it for the first quick ride with the JD today and it runs terribly.. It ran well without the tuner, I only bought it for a bit of tuning for low end power. Now it bogs down really bad nearly to the point of stalling when accellerating from low speed/throttle or steady rpms. But if i open the throttle agressively it has a noticable increase in power comparitavely and wont bog down then?. Just that bad stumble makes it unridable now. I only had 20 minutes to play with it but I also tried G and GB down to 3 to see if it helped.. nope.. Maybe the "accellerator pump"/RB function is to rich? Strange as JD's dyno trial bike was similar setup to mine --> short baffle, cat and carbon off, lambada and restrictors off etc?
Will do this afternoon and weekend. Thanks No, Ive asked the question to others but cant get a good asnwer on CO's. IS that the official baseline value that JD used? Stock settings in Aus are weird, not sure of the actual values but they aren't 100 100 100. Irony would have it that I had the bike at the dealer yesterday (I-beat).. BTW, what do the CO settings actually control? I know FI in general, but more specifically?
I'm pretty sure the JD base settings assume CO settings are all 100. I'm not sure why they would be different in Australia, but I would definitely set them to 100 when using the tuner. You can confirm with JD. I'm far from an expert, but my understanding is that CO is set to richen/lean the mixture at 3 points. Something like idle, 1/8-1/4 and 1/2-WOT. <- not sure if these are accurate, but that's the gist. Lower values lean the mixture and higher values richen it.
Is the I-Beat the only way to set the CO's? The reason I ask is the closest dealer to me is about seventy miles away. Anyone know if there is any place in the Eugene Oregon area who has I-Beat? I don't want to have to buy that along with the JD Tuner and AF guage. Not sure at all what the bkie is set to at this point. Been considering buying a JD set up but it sounds like I better be able to reset some things first. Is the I-Beat something only a husqvarna shop would have or do other shops like KTM have something similar that could help?
Talked to my dealer. He said all of the Australian 2010 TE310's were set to Co 115, 107, 105. He said exactly what AndrewS said - low, mid and top leaner/richer. Different settings for different regions makes sense. Altitude, temperature, humidity etc. JD himself said they tune their bikes on the dyno with all CO's set at 100. My conclusion is that my options are: (A) go for another drive to the dealer and set all Co's to 100 (B) Stuff around with the JD settings to compensate for my odd Co's
My CO's are set to 100 (all) so that's probably why the reccomended settings work so well. I haven't really fiddled with the settings coz it runs so good, but did try leaner down low and it was no good so went back. I would suggest get the CO's set to 100 and then fine tune with the JD. Mine is powered up exactly as yours is.
I like this tuner! High five. I didnt reset Co settings. All that needed adjusting was the red/blue/acc. pump down to 0.5/1. Fiddled with all settings but settled on the suggested numbers otherwise. The bottom end is drastically better with certainly less flameouts, but still some.. Mid range is much stronger. Top end the same.
Anyone know why it seems more people (at least on the TE250 / 310 models) have crisper response with the accelerator pump to .5/1 ? Isn't that quite a bit leaner/lower than the factory default of 3? And if you are in 'power-up' mode on the bikes wouldn't you want it richen (higher number settings??). I know there's more to it such as air density / etc. but in general? Power-up mode is basically derestricting the bike so wouldn't you want more fuel / richen the settings? I have a 2010 te 250 that is in power up mode except the Spark Arrestor is in. Anyone have this same setup and recommend settings? Thanks in advance
