Mine is the same. On adjustment days I carry a spare key so it is quick to pull over, pop the seat off, and make a tweak. Cam.
This is with a Power Commander and the map for a stock bike. Lately it's been on my mind to try removing the PC-V, reinstall the O2 sens, and add fuel w/ iBeat to see if I can achieve the same results. I still think a 2011 bike should be able to work closed loop... .
I think Power Commander might be a better solution than a JD Tuner for most people. It comes with EFI maps, and has the option of auto tune. Without a Dyno, and not experiencce with EFI tunning, Power Commander seem to be the way to go. I got a JD Tuner, and had no idea of what setting to use. After reading this forum, everyone seem to have their own favourite settings. My bike runs well, but can never get pass the 150 km/hr - regardless of what setting I made. I gave up in the end and use 3 for the entire range. The fuel economy has suffered as well (from exhaust modification), I can only get around 200 km range with stock tank.
The JD tuner is definitely easier, and yields great results, especially for those who do not use a computer often. PC5 is complicated, requires more time/effort to tune and more expensive, but better results can be obtained (permanently resolving flame-outs, dual independent maps, ignition timing, etc.).
IMO you can probably get the same performance results with either device. The JD makes changes in broader, less precise strokes while the PC-V is making changes to fine segments of the fueling. For sure the JD is simpler to adjust, understand and the better choice if you have a model of bike for which no PC-V maps exist. As far as the PC-V being difficult/complicated, this is not always true. If you have a bike that Dynojet has already built a custom map for the work is pretty much done. For the 630, it seems Dynojet did a nice job building the map that ships in the PC-V for our bike. Now, if you make significant mods to the bike you may need to get a new map built but not always. When I switched to the FMF exhaust my bike didn't respond positively to adding or subtracting fuel from the stock map. In case some don't know what is involved in making a custom PC-V map, it's been likened to making sausage, you may like the results but you don't want to watch while it's done to your bike (not that it's harmful). The way they arrive at the numbers in all those boxes is by holding the engine at each rpm with the dyno brake and holding the throttle at each percentage while the a/f sniffer gets a reading. Add/subtract fuel until you get the a/f reading you want and put that value in the box. At low/medium rpm this isn't too dramatic, but you can imagine what it's like holding your engine at 7750, 8000, 8250, 8500, 8750 RPM while you check 60%, 80%, 100% throttle a/f readings for each rpm. It sounds worse than it really is for the engine but I was real happy Dynojet had done this to someone else's bike already and put that map in the PC-V. Plus they have the newest dyno, best sniffers, and do it every day... Sorry for going off topic
I've tried to hold mine at 8750 rpm for as long as possible but it wont' seem to make it there before the limiter kicks in.. Many variables exist for proper fuel metering.. you can get close but the PC-V will allow you the best results for your specific modifations and ride environment. The JD tuner is easier to use and will get most close enough for improved performance but for those new to adjusting fuel delivery.. both products can be somewhat difficult and/or confusing. As variables change.. fuel metering will require change, richer or leaner settings. variables: exhaust spark arrestor air box alterations air filter element fuel type fuel octane temp elevation you get the idea...
I finally got around to getting my TE630 tuned with a dyno. I went to LaBaron's Powersports and here is how it all worked out: Bike is set up as follows: FMF Q4 Exhaust Stock Airbox with maze and snorkel removed JD Power Surge 6X 15-48 gearing smog crap removed rear tire was replaced with a street tire for the runs Base run was 40.95 hp & 28.66 ft-lbs After 16 runs and adjustments was 46.03 hp & 32.22 ft-lbs Conditions in the dyno were: started at: 66.97F, 29.34 in-hg, humidity 6%, DIN 1.02, 647ft(197m) above sea level end at: 69.33F, 29.33 in-hg, humidity 5%, DIN 1.02, 647ft (197m) above sea level My chart looks a lot like DynoBob's. The tech who did the runs, said we were at the limit of the JD turner with my current setup. He also said he could get a little more out of the bike if I wanted to use a power commander to fine tune it even more. I am currently happy and am going to ride it this summer as is. The bike is starting easy and running smoother than ever. A little back ground info on Labaron's Powersports, they build & tune lots of ice racers and atvs here in Michigan and they know offroad bikes. Not your typical V-twin tuning center. Final setting for my bike: Green/Blue 2-3 Green 3-4 Blue/Yellow 5 Yellow 5 Red 4 Red/Blue 1
I know the chart looks good, but if you want some more snappy response, bump the red/blue up a good bit.
Yea, I am still going the play with it a bit. I understand the red/blue is the Accel Pump code, just have not had a chance to ride it off the dyno yet (lots of snow here in MI). But there is a big difference in the way the bike runs on the dyno and tooling around the parking lots. Much smoother.
I performed the air box removal mod on my 08 SM610 and had my JD Jetting Power Surge dyno tuned yesterday. I didn't have a baseline prior to this mod, but here are the results. I have the Leo slipon and power up mods. I was surprised to see all the settings were on the lean side of stock when all was said in done, but it runs great, snappy throttle. Another bi-product of this mod is increased motor break. I'll be playing with the R/B on my next ride. G-1/2 Y- 2 R-1 G/B-2/3 Y/B-2 R/B-3
I too have just installed a JD tuner and spent some time trying to get it just right...SM630 Bike has power up kit installed...dual wings open exhaust ...and air box opened up..now it sits with the tuner set at ... G-4 Y-5 R-5 G/B-4 Y/B-2 R/B-6 The performance increase especially at the upper rpm range and roll on is great ...my issue is 3500 to 4000 rpm range, ...just about a normal cruise rpm in any gear, I get a little stutter,surging when the throttle is held steady....Where is that rpm range in relation to the tuner?...When I watch the tuner as I slowly roll on the throttle, lights 1 through 4 come on and stay on as 4000 rpm is approached ...How do these 4 lights relate to that 4000 rpm? Idle is great...starts much easier than before the tuner was added...and overall, a great improvement ..Any suggestions/answers ...Thanks
I think Im gonna try your setting on my 610, I have basically the same mods as you. I was playing with mine when I was at the track and was kinda happy with my settings but it lacks a little top end. don't know if its tuning or.........
Yep, mine too, that's why I decided to try the pod filter setup and have it dialed in on a dyno. At WOT it felt like it couldn't get enough air, plus the motor feels to run freer to me with this setup. I know this bike isn't designed for running on top constantly like when I go to Barber for track days, but it's just too much fun and really helps me improve my corner speed. I can't wait to get it back to the track and see what the final results are, on the street I can already tell it's much improved pulling out of the corners and steady cruise.
SMS 630. Mods:Power up,Arrow pipes with ECU, EHS Filter (snorkel removed).From UK 15-20 metres above sea level. Now fitted my JD Tuner yesterday with EHS UNIVERSAL open filter.Currently running stock settings on tuner,any advice please where to go next must appreciated.Weather a tad wet today to play.
610 P/U resistor LV X3 slip-on Opened up air box Iridium plug I still need the choke/enrichment lever for EVERY start. Cold at the first star of the day, which is somewhat expected but also when hot. Like yesterday, 80* outside and had the bike idling for about 10 minutes as I was adjusting the idle mixture screw. Set idle to 18-1900. Shut the bike off and tried restarting w/o the enrichment lever and it took a few seconds to start and idled hard and low for a little then caught up. I didn't feel comfortable starting it like that every time so I've been using the lever on every start. Tried adjusting the G/B or mode 4 up a few numbers and no help w starting and made idle too rich. Any ideas? G-3/4 Y-4 R-5 G/B-3/4 Y/B-2/3 R/B-6
