Hey, Xpat, let' s put your dynochart in some perspective here. With reference to the dyno chart, those are nice curves you got there ! Torque curve : +85% of max torque is avaialbe from 2500RPM thru to 6500RPM. Power curve: nice and linear and the drop off from 6500 to 8500 is very gradual -maybe the EHS is running out of flow there. The smooth curves indicate that the engine is well designed and functioning well. With reference to the final 54 rear wheel HP, we need to take drive train loss into account to get to Husqvarna quoted fly wheel / crankshaft hp. Internet forum opinion is that drive train loss is between 10% and 15% Final Crankshaft HP then works out to 61HP assuming a 12% drivetrain loss or 60HP assuming a 10% loss. This compares favourably to the Official quoted figure of 57HP for the 630. Nice. The real bonus here is the Torque. Dyno Torque is 57NM + 10 % loss for altitude + 10% loss for drive train loss and 2 NM for the Knobly factor. 70NM Crankshaft torque. Not shabby at all, my china Considering that the all conquering and Iconic 650cc Honda XR650R produced 62HP and 64NM (altitude and drive train etc adjusted ) at the crank in uncorked and well tuned form on the dyno, I would say that your little 600cc TE is really pumping at 60HP and 70NM.
Thanks for posting these settings. My bike also has the Arrows & ECU, but no airbox mods, and has been hunting at constant throttle since fitting the JD. I tried your settings today and the hesitation is all but eliminated - much smoother, seems to allow better throttle control as well and doesn't seem to have lost anything at higher revs either. I too am surprised at these settings, as they are so different to what most forum members seem to be running. Anyway, I'll be leaving it at this unless I get it dyno'd myself, but I don't think I'll bother. Thanks again, this is a great forum for sharing ideas and info.
+1, It's a great forum! BTW, Anyone know if we can have the danger of running too lean with these bikes and the JD?? I was talking to a fellow DRZ guy about this but I think it's different with carbed bikes. The FI in the husky's can't run that lean.....can they?
I just opened up my airbox last night, using that EHS pre-filter kit. I have the OEM ECU, PU kit and the full Leo Ti system. Now it's time to play with the JD settings. I was going to go with this: Green (low range), 4 Yellow (mid range), 5/6 Red (top end), 6 Green/Blue (idle), 3/4 Yellow/Blue (green-yellow transition), 2 Red/Blue (accelerator), 8 I came to those numbers based on what I read in this thread: http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/new-fi-tuner-on-my-sm-630.18398 But after seeing that dyno chart and associated settings, I'm having second thoughts. The only major difference is that you've got the Arrow ECU, which I'm sure richens up the fueling itself. That probably explains the lower JD settings.
Very open air box...OEM ECU,Leo cans,PU kit....Iridium plug My initial settings were : Green 3/4 Yellow 4 Red 5 Green/Blue 3 Yellow/Blue 2 Red /Blue 6 Ran very strong but very noticeable pause or flat spot rolling back on throttle after decel at lower RPM`s.... New settings: Green 3/4 Yellow 5/6 Red 5/6 Green/Blue 3/4 Yellow/Blue 5 Red/Blue 6 Hesitation or pause is gone....starts easier....still pulls like a freight train....did have slight surging before at in town cruising...seems to be gone now....Now not sure which settings fixed what???...guess i will leave for now and see....The yellow/blue has me wondering?? maybe the later transition helped???
I have a similar setup on my sm630. Going from 3 to 3/4 on the idle circuit fixed the surging problem for me.
Went for a quick ride with the settings I listed above. That, the opened up airbox and the -1 tooth front sprocket and I've got a beast on my hands.
Damn! went for a little longer ride and still have that flat spot rolling on the throttle in the 3500 RPM range....thought i got rid of it.. very very slight...is much better but still there...runs great otherwise..no popping on long down hills...pulls hard...just that one spot.. any help appreciated....
You have the exact setup i have... Did these settings cure the low speed stumble others are talking about? Mine has turned into a beast as well but i have a stumble at a walking pace(i.e. t.s.t.)and around 4200 rpms on the hiway.
I hadn't noticed any stumble at all. Is it subtle, like a slight mis-firing? Maybe if I knew what I was looking for, I could give a better answer.
More like surgeing at a steady throttle say 4200 rpms in 4th gear feels like it running out of gas.. Also while in first gear at a walking pace mine will cut out like you are running out of gas..
very nice curves. i wish everyone can post their settings like this for people like me whi cant afford a dyno tune. id like to try those settings but my bike had ibeat installed. i think its why i get leas stumble when green/idle is set at 2. yours is set at 1.5 on red maybe due to the arrow ecu. i rather have a smooth power curve than that extra 1 or 2 hp. its the overall riding experience not numbers for me. i with my bike has a smooth power delivery. on and off throttle seems abrupt. and i know i have dips at certain rpms. in the mean time im burning through tires to really care. lol
I rode it to work after lunch yesterday and tried idling along and cruising at 4000-4500 rpm. I couldn't feel any stumbling at all. On a non powered up stock bike, yeah. When I first got my 630, trying to coast at idle would probably just stall the bike. It used to just die when I'd pull the clutch coming to a stop.
A little food for thought, I know won't this won't be the answer for all of you with issues though but stands to help some. How many of you have installed a JD Tuner without checking your iBeat settings first? Even if you bought your bike new some dealers have been known to make iBeat adjustments pre delivery. With a TPS way out of calibration I could definitely see that causing some fuel delivery stumbles. If your ECU is getting inaccurate data in from your throttle it will be giving inaccurate data out to the TB. Also if the FB settings have been moved from 100% on any of the three ranges then your JD Tuner settings will surely need to be different than a bike with stock settings. So before I would install a JD Tuner I suggest you ensure your TPS is in calibration and all FB set to 100%. This should be required info when giving your settings same as exhaust, P/U, airbox, etc. jtemple has iBeat and no stumbles or stuttering. I have iBeat and no stumbles or stuttering even without a JD Tuner. _
Excellent point. I set my iBeat back to 100/100/100 before installing the JD Tuner. I don't recall any sort of stumbling even before I made any changes to the JD box.
Good advice...i also have a pause or flat spot rolling on the throttle after deccel...very slight but there...everything else is good...maybe i should have those things checked......i bought mine with the Leos and power up kit new....i did not have the issue before tuner installed....so??... Guess i will visit Bill and at least check those things..
Hi Jtemple, just wondering what tuner settings you ended up with. I put on the jdtuner and noticed the dreaded stumble/hesitation right away, with out it the bike was perfect. I have now opened up the air filter cover (EHS screen) and decatted the stock exhaust. I just received my Ibeat yesterday (customs of course took their $46 in fees) My plan is to put FB to 100%, check the TPS setting and then start playing with the JDtuner from preset values. I have bilt a spreadsheet with everyones posted settings and results, there is no real pattern and some of the combinations dont even seem possible that the bike would run right. I believe these wild setting are due to some bikes not having been set up with an Ibeat prior to the tuner install. I should update and post the spreadsheet (might even be worthy of being a sticky in the EFI section)
