All 2st Jetting Chat - Need Help? Post Your Questions Here

I cleaned the sputter up considerably with out any carb adjustment. I was running 94 octane from Mo-Hawk which has 15 % ethanol, not good so I've been told.. Yesterday I mixed 50/50, 110 octane with 91 pump gas from Cosco, no ethanol, and pre-mixed 50:1.. Drained out all the ethanol from the fuel tank and topped er up.. Runs more crisp, I could instantly feel more snap to the motor.. the pull on the shoulders is what really stood out. And now the sputter at steady cruise, 1/8-1/4 throttle is 90% gone.. I'm hoping to clear the rest up with an adjustment to the mixture screw.

Alcohol is bad mmmkay!

E10 or E15 is probably something that we'll have to live with soon...has anyone had a chance to jet their bike to ethanol?

Hi, guys!
I have a WR300 2012 year.
I have a problem:
Carb: Mikuni TMX 38
Main jet - 430
Pilot - 45
Needle - "GAY"
Clip position - 3rd
Slide - 4"
Air screw setting - 3
Elevation (feet) - 0-500 ft.
I have a problem with cold and hot starts (10-15 kickstarts) and random rich symptoms.
What's problem?
Maybe I run slowly and the plug don't have time to be cleaned?
Sorry for my English

My 250 can be hard to start when it's too rich off idle. 1. Check float level. Do a search - there's a thread with photos here somewhere. 2. Try a leaner pilot jet. If you are 3 turns out on AS, you're probably too rich.

I read of some guys removing the small air filter mesh from the pilot jet air intake at the bottom of the rear of the carb. Should I do this? Or it does not help me?
My jet kit is a standart kit (workshop manual), I don't understand why it does not work

Is there any benefit to removing the small screen for the pilot jet air intake on a wr144? I am guessing that with the screen in place, the air-flow to the pilot jet would be disrupted more than with-out it. Any thoughts on this? !

I can't understand why manual 2012 Husqvarna WR300 recommended: main jet - 420,pilot - 35, slide - 4", starting jet - 80, AS - 1,5 turn and manual 2010 Husqvarna WR300 recommended: main jet - 430, pilot - 45, slide - 4", starting jet - 80, AS - 2turn. whats different between bikes 2012 and 2010 year? what is considered right?

That's just a starting point anyway, 99% of us will have to re-jet to get it perfect anyway.

I believe the difference between the 10 and 12 is ignition and forks. If you run it hard, be careful running the gay needle @ pos 3. my $.02

I agree. I was running the GAY in 3rd on my 250 at 6000 ft and I went back to the stock needle. I decided I didn't like the GAY needle - too lean for me.

I've been running the GAY needle in the richest position and it is rich enough to tame down the hit without being to rich. In the next groove up it will rip, is crisp and hard to hang on to but should be perfect for higher altitude. The 3rd or middle clip was too lean for me as well. I could never get along with the extreme dual taper of the stock needle, it wouldn't allow me to have the crisp clean power all the way from the bottom to the top.

The GAY needle worked well last summer when it was hot and riding was on singletrack woods trails at 6500-8000 ft. With cooler spring temperatures, I went back to the stock BFY and I just ordered a 1/2 clip leaner version of the BFY. Can't wait to try it!

Hi,can anybody help me find a wiring diagram for my 1992 WR 125?

What is your current jetting? Not that you want to hear this but the stock mikuni works better on the 125/144/165 when they are set up right. I have ran both the Pwk and the Tmxx and have went back to the Mikuni. I would ditch the Jd needle and go with the Suzuki NExx series for the Keihin.

Current is JD red needle, 3rd clip, 185 main jet, runs great, no bogs, starts easy, etc., but 3/4 to wide open it sounds and feels really lean. The guy that installed the carb for me put the red one in, but I think with the temps here (still fairly cool, 10-20 Celcius) reading on the needles, that the blue would be a better choice for now, so put that in at 2nd clip and will check the plug tomorrow on it and do a test.

help!new 2011 wr 300..had the mikuni w/ power up kit from dealer installed as delivered...flat on top no power,no idle,not easy to start hot,great power 1/4 to 1/2 openings...I dunno anything about mikunis I have had KDX200,KTM200 so I am familiar with Kehien...well I got the JD PWk kit from Enduro Armour,based off the praise from forum members.. installed as delivered 45pj,175mj,blue ndl 3rd clip,as 1 1/2..first ride was disapointing, spooge,smoke,bog, very rich, I could rev-out to clean it out then it would pull hard for a while the load up again and blubber and miss....the plug was black...I suffered..I had left the other needle/jets at home and my buddies left me behind, last to the truck and I just came off the KTMs .., usually one of us had nailed down the jetting and we all copied what worked..give or take
So when I got home, I switched to red needle 3rd, 170 main, air screw to idle...ran very hard alot of power..scary fast...so is there a question here anywhere...please help...I am afraid to go too lean and sieze it up...
I live in the Idaho Panhandle and ride from 2500-6000ft, tight, technical snotty trails,roots, logs,rocks, ..my kit only came with 175 and 170 no 180...i got 2 170's oops....

forgot to mention, I installed a Leo Vince silencer kept the stock pipe based off what I have read, I tried to read the plug but it was the rich plug I cleaned up...can anybody give me a good base line jetting for my area.elevation...any other husky riders in the PNW in similar conditions?

I'm running a WB 165 kit in my 2009 with an RB Designs modified Mikuni (bored, divider plate, low speed circuit mods, #5 slide).
Suzuki 16-62 needle in 2nd clip from top
40 pilot
500 main
Airscrew @ 1 turn out

It runs good down low and wide open, but I'm getting a lean knock in the transition (1/2-3/4 throttle). I believe I need to go to a richer needle, no? Is the 16-61 needle the one I want to try?
I have the stock needles as well, 6BFY43-74 AND 6DEY15-74

Is your needle raised all the way up?