125-200cc Just Bought 2012 WR125

I just finished rejetting the carb back to original factory specifications. In engineering it's known as the "Last known good condition". I'll start out playing with the powervalve settings with the cover off and then work on jetting.

Woo-hoo! I re adjusted the powervalve all the way to the top of the slider and that and the richer 45 pilot helped a lot. I finally went to a 50 pilot and it ran even better! Now it will lug down and it has a seriously good midrange that merges very smoothly into a screaming top end. I was climbing hills today in second and third that I could barely do in first last week. I can't wait until the 144 kit get here!

Nice!

Awesome good to read! I love my 144 and can't believe just how much better it is over the 125; you will be in for a treat!

You might also want to look at Wally's PV spring kit. I'm running the stock PV spring with Wally's inner silver spring. It still engages at the same RPM but it slows down the PV opening a bit so it is less abrupt coming on the pipe.

I think this is the first time I've seen a 50 pilot jet in any Husky. Maybe I'm not recalling correctly, but that seems like a first.

I decided to try it since it was in my kit. Really pulled a lot harder in the midrange.

When I was messing with the mikuni, got it to work with a big pilot, it needs the fuel off idle to get the flywheel weight spinning. Tends to go rich in midrange though. Get the RM needle, should cure the problem.
GP

When I had the 125 jug on it I ran a 48 pilot the stock needle. With the 144 jug I'm down to a 42 and using the RM needle. Seems the 125 doesn't suck as hard as the 144 and needs larger jets.

Probably needs a richer slide then you can drop the pilot jet. Seems that they tend to run a very lean slide with way too rich a pilot these days.

Hi again, got a chance to ride my 2012 WR125 for about 30 miles or so. Love the handling and it runs pretty strong too. I really didn't "hammer" with it but wicked it up a couple times and like what I feel. I wanted to check the jetting and this is what it came with:
6DE15-74 needle / clip middle position
460 main
35 pilot
mixture screw 1.5 out
I went out and did the WOT with a new plug, 1st, 2nd, and 3rd till it seemed to "top out"......I pulled the plug and it still looked brand new. What I don't know is, did I not run it long enough for a plug read or is it that lean? I wanted to put a larger main in but right now I don't have one. I attached 2 pics (if it works) one is the WOT new plug and the other has 30 or so miles of riding mostly single track and south jersey fire cuts. Like I said, I did wick it some but not a lot of WOT. Any comments / opinions are welcome.

My first impression is your 30 mile plug looks awfully good and is probably representitive of running mostly bottom/mid. Your WOT runs look too lean but what I would do is put the 30 mile plug back in then do a series of WOT runs and see if you lose the nice dark tan coloring.

Thanks Wally,
I'll give that a try and see what happens. After better inspection...with some "younger" eyes, I do have a 470 main in the kit I recieved with the bike. I think I will put it in and try that also to see if I get any color to the new plug. Any idea why they gave me another 4.0 slide and another needle (same as the one already installed) too? Are they prone to wearing out quickly or something?
Thanks

one that we sold came with a extra slide and needle as well.ours had a 45 pilot jet.maybe they felt generous with the extras!

Someone was looking to buy a 4.0 slide, since you have an extra you might check the wanted ads here on CH

Did you get it at central jersey cycles per chance? If so I'm pretty sure he might've changed that pilot as stock from the factory it's a 45 in the carb as I bought mine there and we discussed what I did PV wise as well as with jetting etc and he was going to mess with the last one on his floor to make sure it ran right as opposed to the way mine ran stock.
Your wot plug does look a smigden lean but the other one looks great.

I agree that you should try the 45 pilot. Also for you East Coast guys I had trouble with some switchback trails this weekend and ended up cutting about 1/2" off the end of the fork stop bolts and running them almost all the way in to the nut to gain a decent turning radius.

Yep, that's where I got it. Bob told me that I might want to go to a 40 pilot and drop the needle one richer after I rode it a bit.So I guess he did change things up. I really don't have much of a complaint of how it runs I just want to make sure it isn't lean.......He never mentioned the main nor the PV. He told me that he had run it through some heat cycles but there were 0 miles on it so it wasn't riden as far as I could tell. Bob's a good guy. I won't be able to ride it till this weekend, but I'm going to try the 470 main with a plug test, then also try his suggestion on pilot and needle.
Man, this bike handles great!

I'd suggest richening up the needle one before you richen up the main. I'm running a 40 pilot with the air screw 1.5 turns out. My PV is adjusted almost all the way to the top and I told him that as well so I'm pretty sure he might've adjusted yours as well. Yep it handles great and for me (165lbs) the suspension thus far feels great as well. Have fun and perhaps we'll meet on the trails one day.

Thanks,
I'll give that a try. I did see your other post with those settings and it was my intention to give it a try. I'm gonna call Bob today to see if he did adjust the PV so at least I know if I need to look at it or not. I'm "guessing" that all the talk about the RM needle is mainly for prior years and not for the '12? Yes, maybe we will meet on the trails some day. Do you happen to ride any ECEA enduro's? I'm prabably going to ride some of the Jersey ones just for fun, I don't nearly ride enough anymore to be competative. Besides, in my class, A Senior, it's just a bunch of "utsa bee" AA still "super fast" guy's.