250-500cc just posted my bike up for sale

Certainly not a 250/310r, they're crap, stay away from them......













Hopes to devalue and buy all of them for himself......

Don't use a linkage to lower a bike, have it properly lowered by a suspension shop.

If the Rekluse makes the clutch on your clutch lever stiff and makes you a lazy rider, why not just remove the Rekluse (and sell it)? If you want a hydro clutch, you can buy a Magura kit for almost half the cost of a Rekluse. I have the Magura on my bike and I like it a lot. I thought about getting a Rekluse for mine, but I don't like the EXP kit, and they don't make the Core EXP for these bikes (let alone the fact that the Core EXP kit is very expensive), so I will just stick with a regular manual clutch.

Honestly, if you're not racing, the regular cable clutch with a good cable and maybe a clutch arm extension is probably fine. Mine was pretty good like that, I was just looking for the extra edge after 2+ hours of intense nonstop woods racing.

Buy this one... awesome value (errr not) bikesales te310r

Honestly, I'd like to try a new (new to me) bike but I am not convinced that I can find something that I'll immediately like more than my 310.
Although... I have a strange feeling I need to stay away from any Sherco demo day to avoid a big transaction.

Agreed

that's always an option.

btw, just sayin ...about that arm extension...??

There's nothing wrong with using linkage to lower a bike. Sometimes it's an even better solution than putting a stop spacer in the shock.

Besides the fact that it changes the linkage ratio (from factory design, thus changing required spring rate), doesn't limit travel (meaning that at full bottom the tire may try to go through the fender), and lowers the rear of the bike without lowering the front (thus making the chassis geometry totally wonky at reasonable sag numbers)?

there is no lowering linkage on WR300. at least i was not able to find one. so this is purely theoretical discussion.

Maybe I just got lucky but my new to me 09 wr250 has a z start pro and has the lightest clutch pull I've ever felt. Best I can tell it is stock clutch cable.

The previous owner gave me the receipt that showed it was installed by Solid Performance in Pa.

Paid $2900 for bike.

The power isn't crazy either. Not sure if it's jetting or the Rekluse but it makes me feel like I'm a great rider, which I'm definitely not!

Can be a good thing. Most bikes are oversprung and overdamped for me, so the change is welcome.

Definitely a good thing. it also increases it, even better.

Lowering only the shock with a spacer does the same thing.

We modify our bikes in a multitude of ways, and it always has to be done with some forethought. This is no different.
Reducing travel if you don't have to makes no sense.

I used to always be against rekluse clutches because always thought it was cheating and not really true riding. But lately have some of the places I have been riding have been beyond crazy how torn up and steep and loose and rutted the crap has turned into. If my wr had e start I wouldn't even think of a rekluse but now am finally coming around and about to pull the trigger on one

The ZSP has crazy light clutch pull but the EXP style has the really heavy pull.

ks9mm,I think you've already made the decision to buy another bike, its just your mind trying to justify what your heart is already telling you. Your interest and desires lie with a new scoot, but the guilt and frustration of your letting go of your old bike are making you 2nd guess yourself. From your posts here since your Italian Husky cooked itself, and seeing your questions about the newer Huskys and posts in the GG forum, I think you've already come to the decision you are getting a new bike, you just haven't felt right about letting go of the old bike yet. If you can, keep your Italian Husky and get the 250 Austrian Husky you've been asking about. Have the best of both worlds. But don't feel bad about letting go the Italian Husky. Just think about what it will be like riding a brand new bike. The "new smell", staring at all the new parts you'll have to get familiar with, the shopping you'll do to personalize your new bike, and the relatively nicer aspects of having a E-start, smaller frame dimensions, and fun of breaking in a new motor. It may be hard looking forward into the future and seeing the best outcome since your current Husky seized itself dead, but it will seem so obvious what the right choice was when you look back and think of why you didn't change bikes sooner when you are riding your new Husky. Everyone has mentioned good points about keeping your "old" bike, but a dirt bike isn't about logic, its about passion. Buy your new Husky, figure out how to afford it later, let the wife be mad at you, and enjoy that first wheelie you do on your cute new blue and yellow girlfriend!

Strongly disagree. Linkage ratio isn't a static thing, it has a curve, and the shape of that curve is important. Too much damping can and should be dealt with through a revalve, and spring rates should be set with sag and by changing springs.

More travel isn't good if it allows the tire to go through the rear fender.

Which is why you should always lower the front and the rear of the bike at the same time. This can only be done in the front with proper spacers inside the fork, and the same should be done in the rear.

The limit of travel is chosen carefully by OEMs, and lots of things are built around that. For example, chain slack, linkage clearances, linkage angles, exhaust location, fenders and plastics. Arbitrarily increasing travel beyond this point is a dangerous game. Sure, the OEMs occasionally mess stuff up and we have to "fix" it with the aftermarket, but in general they're smarter than us, and linkage geometry isn't as straightforward as something like changing jetting or spring rates. Have you ever tried to synthesize a linkage geometry to accomplish some set of kinematic goals? It's not easy!

If I recall, you have previously stated a belief that changing oil weight is an acceptable substitute for a revalve, so I highly doubt we're going to see eye-to-eye on this. You certainly can continue to do whatever it is you like with your bike, but I would caution other members reading this against it for the aforementioned reasons, which I believe they should be aware of.

Agree, lowering links are for slower short ass learners, any serious half decent rider shouldn't want or need one.just my opinion.

don't like them, not a fan of buggering about with geometry that husky or any other manufacturers put a lot of time in to getting right.

And changing oil weight as same as revalving shocks or forks ?

good stuff Ed!

I've had my share of new bikes and in some cases, i regretted making rush decisions after first euphoria passed As I am bit older now, I learned to be just bit more patient and let dust settle down and trust that right answer will be found.

and it's not just about new Husky...there is also GG250 thats very interesting (although Husky wins for me) and I am also very interested in trying WR125-165 and than there is my bike, that once engine is rebuilt is basically restored to brand new condition

I am sure my dealer will always have new bike for me to buy when I am ready.

as to wife.. don't you guys have your own secret stash that can finance new bike without her even knowing where the money come from???

Boy, I thought I was the only one that had issues.. Sold my 12' TE511 because I wanted a brand new TE300. After kicking around the idea of buying a $10k dirt bike, I rode my bosses $10k TE300, and crashed it in a race... and all of a sudden it looked like a $3k dirt bike. I decided I crash to much to own anything that nice so I picked up a 2010 WR300 last night for $2900 and am stoked!! Started first ughh.. kick

Side note. My WIFE did have a little bit of input on the decision..

It's too bad that you were unable to comprehend what I said in that thread. Not surprising though, as basic tuning and troubleshooting is often the biggest difficulty for most non professional mechanics.

Please explain it to me, then, instead of just accusing me of misunderstanding. This is what I was referring to:

"I would try changing the oil first before you even think about spending money on valving."

"After spring rate, the viscosity of the oil is THE most important decision you should make about your suspension. It affects ALL aspects of the damping, ALL the time."

"If you're not happy with your suspension, you should be looking at the oil you're using long before you even think about revalving. Revalving should always be a last resort, NEVER the first thing you do."

Thread: http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/consensus-on-the-stock-cr-125-forks.33310/

This is a (petty) BS response. You have no idea what my qualifications are, and "professional mechanic" is a pretty darn vague term, which doesn't really say anything, by itself, about the competencies of a person. I know lots of really good and really bad mechanics, and they are certainly not all qualified to tune suspension. Can we please try to have a discussion/argument without ad hominem attacks?

To the original poster. The rekluse exp uses a wedge ramp design with extra heavy duty clutch springs. That's why your clutch is hard to pull. I returned that model and went back to a Z Start Pro. It is a ball ramp design with a double Bellevue spring that makes it possible for 1 finger clutch pull with your pinky and is more adjustable. I wish I could speak on the Core model but I have no experience with one.