This happened to my original filter also. I think the problem is, that when you slide the filter housing in, if the housing isn't level, (and that wiring conduit almost forces you to push the filter in on an angle) the bottom of the paper filter gets caught on the lower edge of the lip where it sits, and when you push it further, the rubber around the top is the weakest point and this tears until you push it in far enough to free the snag. I believe this will not occur with the foam filter, because the foam will not catch on that point, or it will just compress and slide along. Hard to describe without a photo to assist. When I get home from work I'll see if I can explain better with images.
Watch a few of the aftermarket filters for the G650X bikes. They may be deeper than will fit in our bikes as its box design is different and can take a very deep filter. The G650X UNI filter is a good example, its really deep. The G650X bikes air box and filter design also sucked for sealing well and keeping crap out.
"I have heard that only the foam filters are good for Off-Road use not the cotton ones. Can I use the DNA filter for Off-Road use?DNA has developed a unique filtering media that is perfect for off-road use. During the toughest rally in the world, DAKAR 2011 in Argentina - Chile, one of the factory Aprilia 450 Rally bikes, was racing with DNA filter. The results were very impressive compared to the rest of the team's bikes racing with foam filters. Every evening when the bikes were serviced, compared back to back the DNA filter and the foam filters, absolutely no dust had passed through and the engine was like new! Not to mention that one filter was enough for each day, compared to 2 or 3 foam filters per day the other bikes had to use. So this myth is busted!" I was reading on the DNA site and find them to be quite the air filter company. $100 delivered to the USA I guess. They post test result and such from stock and theirs. If you want a performance filter and can afford the initial cost, this seems like the best one. I have fired of an email for more pictures of the sealing surface and material composition. The K&N is questionable as to how it will seal in our configurations. The BMW model has a lid that scews down, ours slide in and must compress and seal with much less force.
Sklia, would you take a picture of the K&N filter in the filter bracket to confirm fitment? I know this is a hassle with the removal of the three screws, but a couple of photos could answer many questions about how well it will seal. Cheers.
I just ordered one. Found one on ebay for $38.99 - free shipping. I will be the test dummy when it comes.
I have some concerns on this KN filter. How soft is the sealinglip? Is it as pliable as the stock one? And the most important question is how is it going to seal on the left side part as shown in the picture? Take a look inside your breather box and at the top, and see if you have a sealing edge. Make sure you put a good layer of filter grease at the top of the box, and on the filter and holder edge. Siliconing it in may also be a good idea. You would still be able to clean it in the housing.
I have some concerns on this KN filter. How soft is the sealinglip? Is it as pliable as the stock one? And the most important question is how is it going to seal on the left side part as shown in the picture? The K&N Filter is much more stable than the original Filter. Also when you push the Filterholder back in the Airbox, the Filter keeps in the right position. I suppose the sealing is warranted at least better than the OEM Filter.
Important seating/sealing issues aside, generally when you see a filter with LESS pleats & when they are NOT as deep that is NOT a good sign. If such a filter is to be as free flowing as the OEM it's likely to give up some ability to filter finer particulate. That's not to say these replacements that appear to have LESS surface area aren't good enuff - they may be, but I doubt they're anything special. I didn't see any spec's like: cfm @ inches wc, or filtration efficiency OE vs theirs. It would be interesting to see owner's opinions from doing a back to back test; run your bike hard on the street with one of the replacement filters then run with NO filter the same way. A NO filter test will sort-of tell us if there's anything left on the table as far as the air filter goes (in that bikes existing config at least).
I'm leaning towards that DNA filter for the flow and design. It will be easier to clean, has more pleats and has a four stage cotton. Yes it costs $100 bucks, five stock filters. I will silicon it in and use a pre filter to be safe if I do not make my own airbox.
Just installed my K&N BM-6507 air filter and it is a perfect fit no gaps. Fits nice and snug I am very happy. No need for silicon That I can see. On my Second K&N 151 oil filter. Perfect also, no problems with fit or function.
The sealing lip is no doubt better than the stocker. Instead of foam it's a pliable rubber-like material. It's more sturdy and less likely fail (rip or deteriorate). The dimensions are the same as stock except depth; which doesn't matter. This filter isn't going to solve Husky's design flaws concerning the airbox but it is washable, supposedly provides more flow, and is better quality than stock. A little grease around the most vulnerable area and you're good. You would want to do this with any other filter anyways.
I picked up one of the K&N filters from ebay for $38.00. It showed up the following day. I'll put it in when I service the bike next as I just installed a new stock one the week before that took 5 weeks to get when I ordered it from the Husky dealer near me.
