Yea like shawvagga said, the fuel tap is in the way, and I've been popping the seat and all you have to do is lift the tank a little. But on those accasions when you do need to pull the carb, it's a pita. The tatata is almost gone by richening the power jet about 3/4 turn. So I'm happy with that. Power jet kicks in a lot sooner than I expected, btw. That's what had me confused for a while. I think I have the newer "Kelley" metering rod in there now. That's the 3-2XL, right? It's still a little soft on the bottom. But I can live with it for now. Overall I'm happy with it. Thanks, all, for the help.
If you have an older carb gotten from Kelly or if Lectron knew it was for a Husky wr300, the rod is probably 3-2m. New carbs for 300 2t tend to come with 2-3xl which I haven't tried yet. Here's a summary of what Lectron told me again, leanest on bottom to richest on bottom: 3-1m (ms-3) 3-1xl 3-2m 3-2xl The "m" means it's a Motosportz designed rod, ms-3 was intended for wb165 and 3-2m for wr300. My 300 likes 3-1xl and the 165 likes the 3-2m, so go figure and ymmv
the length of the pj tube extending into the bore will show exactly when the pj operates. these can be trimmed or swapped out for different lengths to have the pj operate at different rpms
Do lectrons have the fuel encapsulator thingy that keeps fuel around PJ pick up area wen throttle whacked WFO or am I thinkin mikuni?
Finally got my bike dialed in. Originally had 3-1 rod too weak off idle no hit until top end. Then went to 3-2 too rich off bottom clubbers at 1/8 throttle. Now running 3-2m if I set it for clean idle no spooge its flat off idle 1/4 turn richer and she pulls strong off idle. Good strong lugging power. I guess . A little oil running out of the muffler is a good thing. Hope I'm done messing with the lectron. Running a 50/50 mix of av gas and 92 pump gas. Stops the off idle ping I get using pump gas.
I thought I would post up here first.....I bought a Lectron new for my WR 360. I'm not really happy at this point and thought I would reach out here before getting rid of it. So I've been on here asking some info on here and I'm still not having luck. So when I first got it, it was overfilling and not shutting fuel off. So I adjusted floats made sure it was clear in fuel inlet and that didn't change anything. So Lectron sent me out a new needle and seat. I put it on bench and made sure the level was between mark and bowl brace. I've tried a 2-3m, 3-2m and a 4-2m and I have narrowed it to the 3-2m. So my problem is at idle it "loads up" after 5-10 sec. I lean out the rod to get rid of it and still has just a little but then sounds too tinny. Motor is completely rebuilt upper and lower. I live and ride between 7,500 and 12k ft.
First time I've heard that As posted elsewhere common Lectron rods have been: 3-1m (ms-3, custom rod by Motosportz) 3-1xl 3-2m (custom rod by Motosportz) 3-2xl And there are plenty more rods, but only those 2 are "m". Also, basic Lectron tuning is adjust rod and idle screw so bike starts and idles well. If idle screw is other than @ 1-2 turns out need to adjust or replace rod. Rod should be adjusted to @ 49-50mm from brass grommet on the slide to tip of rod. YMMV Every time I've blamed the Lectron for fine tuning prob's it's turned out to be something else, especially air leaks. Inspect your reeds, reed block and intake boot very carefully. Maybe at that elevation the bike is just going to sound "tinny". If it's too lean it should run on and not return to idle. Ride a little and check the plug. If it's not white/grey, should be good for an ride with a fresh plug, then check it again. Also, 1 lazy day last summer I installed a pre-oiled air filter. At some point the bike started running a little funky, hiccups, spooge, hesitate off idle. A couple rides later I tore it down to lube the linkage and found the carb throat coated in oil, the air boot too and a small puddle in the low spot in the boot. So make sure everything is right before blaming the carb. In my experience the guys at Lectron are very helpful and have decades of experience with these carbs. I wouldn't hesitate to call them up, just make sure everything is good on the bike and you've read the setup guide.
Thanks for the reply....Yeah my reed block is fine, reeds are new, cranks seals new, everything new pretty much. checked manifold around carb and its not the most snug fit but prayed wd 40 while running and no change in idle. The rod is 50.5mm out and idle is 1 turn out from fully in. Still does the same thing. gets real fat when idling but will clear itself out with a couple blips. Prob is it'll do that while going down steep downhills...the only thing I can think of is going to a 3-1....already bought 3 rods....getting old.
My 300 likes the 3-1xl best. Is yours hard to start? How's the plug look? Anyway, if it won't idle adjust/replace the rod until it does. 50.5mm would be in the too lean zone already for me.
im currently running a 3-2xl in my 360, have for a good while. no problems idling, runs super clean everywhere. powerjet tube is cut a bit tho..
Yes it's 2 kicks cold and 3-4 when warm. Plug looks on the rich side. Not horribly rich but not tan. Prob need a 3-1.
mine is cut to where my power jet only operates in the upper 1/3 of the throttle. i had a small rich spot in the mid range that wouldnt tune out. bottom and top end were pretty much spot on, i dont think this adjustment would fix your issue.
I'm trying to setup a new metering rod in my lectron for my TX300. I'm wondering how to accurately check the RPMs at idle? I have an old dwell/tach meter that I used to use with my vw bug, but it's been so long since I used it that I cannot remember how to set it up. Any suggestions? Can I buy something from the auto parts store?
The Google Gods know how: A tach-dwell meter is a combination electronic device that measures engine rpm as a tachometer and ignition point dwell angle. The tachometer function is self-explanatory; it measures engine speed in revolutions per minute. The dwell function measures the degrees of distributor rotation that ignition points are closed and is directly related to ignition point gap. In fact, the ignition point gap can be set by adjusting the dwell angle. Attach the red lead on your meter to the negative "-" terminal on the ignition coil. Attach the black lead on your meter to any good ground on the engine; that is, an unpainted metal part. Set the meter for the number of cylinders your engine has. There should be a switch with engine settings on it. Set the meter for "tach" or "dwell." The meter will have a switch for this. When using the meter, switch back and forth between tach and dwell. I wouldn't even bother. Adjust the idle screw out until the bike begins to stall, then turn the screw in until it smooths out. Do this with a warm engine and put it in first gear, holding the clutch and make sure it still idles smoothly. If it stalls while riding turn the screw in a little more. No great harm in having the idle a little high with a Lectron.
